Gold Rush Area

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Early morning sun
10 mins
Up and Down

Five minutes walk north of Newstones is a prominent tower that forms the left-hand end of the Baldstones. Although only of limited extent, the crag is home to some excellent routes and more quality bouldering. It is always quiet. Guidebook page 106.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Perambulator Parade
12m. Pull onto a ramp and follow it left then back right to the shady side of the tower. Climb this rightwards to a restricted...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
VD
2
Incognito
10m. Climb the centre of the slab (hard start) to a shallow groove (small wires) and an awkward leftward exit to the top.
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
3
Baldstones Face
12m. 'Walk' up the diagonal break rightwards to access the arete and finish up this in a fine position.
 
2 Stars
VS 4b
4
Original Route
12m. The central groove is problematical until the first decent finger-jam is reached (a V2 problem). Teeter up the scoop above...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E2 6a
5
Baldstones Arete
12m. Climb the leaning wall on the right to ledges then balance out to the arete and climb this, first right then left. Superb.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
HVS 4c
6
Gold Rush
10m. An impressive line but usually dirty and seldom climbed. Traverse out right to enter the inverted scoop in the overhangs...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4 5c
7
Goldsitch Crack
12m. The compelling 'arse' is approached steeply from the right and squirmed up with some trepidation.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HVS 4c
8
Baldstones Traverse
The line of sloping holds gives a pumpy traverse.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
V7 7A+
9
Blackbank Crack
12m. Climb the zigzag crack in the right-hand side of the face.
 VD
10
Forking Chimney
10m. The chimney is a forking struggle, though worthwhile.
 
1 Stars
D
11
Bareleg Wall
10m. Climb the groove then make an awkward move rightwards towards a better finish up the wide crack.
 VS 4b
12
Morridge Top
8m. The pleasantly technical wall on the far right.
 
Technical
VS 5a