Adjacent Areas
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Five minutes walk north of Newstones is a prominent tower that forms the left-hand end of the Baldstones. Although only of limited extent, the crag is home to some excellent routes and more quality bouldering. It is always quiet. Guidebook page 106.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Perambulator Parade 12m. Pull onto a ramp and follow it left then back right to the shady side of the tower. Climb this rightwards to a restricted... 1 user comment | 2 Stars | VD |
2 |
Incognito 10m. Climb the centre of the slab (hard start) to a shallow groove (small wires) and an awkward leftward exit to the top. | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
3 |
Baldstones Face 12m. 'Walk' up the diagonal break rightwards to access the arete and finish up this in a fine position. | 2 Stars | VS 4b |
4 |
Original Route 12m. The central groove is problematical until the first decent finger-jam is reached (a V2 problem). Teeter up the scoop above... | 3 Stars Technical Fluttery | E2 6a |
5 |
Baldstones Arete 12m. Climb the leaning wall on the right to ledges then balance out to the arete and climb this, first right then left. Superb. 2 user comments | 3 Stars Fluttery | HVS 4c |
6 |
Gold Rush 10m. An impressive line but usually dirty and seldom climbed. Traverse out right to enter the inverted scoop in the overhangs... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Fluttery | E4 5c |
7 |
Goldsitch Crack 12m. The compelling 'arse' is approached steeply from the right and squirmed up with some trepidation. | 1 Stars Fluttery | HVS 4c |
8 |
Baldstones Traverse The line of sloping holds gives a pumpy traverse. | 2 Stars Pumpy | V7 6c |
9 |
Blackbank Crack 12m. Climb the zigzag crack in the right-hand side of the face. | VD | |
10 |
Forking Chimney 10m. The chimney is a forking struggle, though worthwhile. | 1 Stars | D |
11 |
Bareleg Wall 10m. Climb the groove then make an awkward move rightwards towards a better finish up the wide crack. | VS 4b | |
12 |
Morridge Top 8m. The pleasantly technical wall on the far right. | Technical | VS 5a |