The Cowper Stone

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Early morning sun
6 mins
Uphill
Windy

This isolated block of rock is Stanage's last gasp and proves to be a tough task master. There is only a small collection of routes on this blobby boulder, but they include possibly the worst set of holds and most rounded breaks anywhere on Grit. Climbers unused to it might wonder at the grades.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Zippatrocity
The lowest break gives an arduous outing; sustained, technical and horribly rounded. Just the right-hand side-wall is f6B+.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
f7B+
2
Whatever Happened to Bob?
Climb the left-hand side of the face right then left.
 E3
3
Sad Amongst Friends
The blank central section of the face, finish using a red wart on the lip of the final roof. The lower section is bold and...
 
2 Stars
E7
4
Snug as a Thug on a Jug
A classic grit name - start up the flared crack in the right-hand side of the face and follow this to flutings on its left....
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
E4
5
Warmlove
The direct finish to Snug as a Thug on a Jug involves a huge reach for a pebble which enables a desperate grovelling exit....
 
2 Stars
Technical
E6
6
Happy Amongst Friends
The bulging wall just left of the arete is more of the same!
 
1 Stars
E6
7
Breakdance
The bulging right-hand arete of the leaning front face of the buttress. Wild and weird contortions may help and the finish is...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E3
8
Traverse of the Gritstone Gods
A tough right-to-left traverse of the buttress from Breakdance to the left arete via the highest horizontal break. Use a series...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E4
9
Leroy Slips a Disc
Poor holds lead up the right-hand wall.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
f7B
10
Head Spin
The right side of the wall, rounded, to a finish via a crusty flake.
1 user comment
 f6B
11
Pudding
The wall on the left.
1 user comment
 HVS
12
Salt and Vinegar
The flared fissure has some juicy finger-jams.
 HS
13
Chips
The crack and rounded arete above. The start is a 5c problem.
 E2
14
Peas
Traverse in from the left and finish up the right-hand side of the wall. The direct start is a testing f6C mantel.
1 user comment
 E4
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    The Mersey Variant
    "It is steep and the top end of 5C but has good hard moves, between good gear, to..." 02/Sep

    Via Roof Route
    "Two highly contrasting pitches: precarious slab climbing - usually on rock that ..." 20/Aug

    Manchester Buttress
    "Should be a Top 50; but to echo previous comments make sure you are on double ro..." 15/Sep

    Constipation
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

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