The Cowper Stone

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Sun to mid-afternoon
5 mins
Uphill

This isolated block of rock presents Stanage's final outpost, and what a tough task master it is. There is only a small collection of routes on this glorified boulder, but they include the worst set of holds, and biggest collection of rounded breaks anywhere in t'Peak. Climbers unused to gritstone might wonder at the grades of some of the routes.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Zippyattrocity
The lowest break gives an arduous outing; sustained, technical and horribly rounded. Just the right-hand side-wall is V4 6B+.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
V8 7B+
2
Whatever Happened to Bob?
Climb the left-hand side of the face right then left.
 
Rounded
E3 5c
3
Sad Amongst Friends
The blank central section of the face, finish using a red wart on the lip of the final roof. The lower section is bold and...
 
2 Stars
Rounded
E7 6c
4
Snug as a Thug on a Jug
A classic Grit name - start up the flared crack in the right-hand side of the face and follow this to flutings on its left....
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Rounded
E4 6b
5
Warmlove
The direct finish to Snug as a Thug on a Jug involves a huge reach for a pebble which enables a desperate grovelling exit....
 
2 Stars
Technical
Rounded
E6 7a
6
Happy Amongst Friends
The bulging wall just left of the arete is more of the same!
 
1 Stars
Rounded
E6 6c
7
Breakdance
The bulging right-hand arete of the leaning front face of the buttress. Wild and weird contortions may help and the finish is...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
E3 6a
8
Traverse of the Gritstone Gods
A tough right-to-left traverse of the buttress from Breakdance to the left arete via the highest horizontal break. Use a series...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
E4 6b
9
Leroy Slips a Disc
Poor holds lead up the right-hand wall.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Rounded
V8 7B
10
Head Spin
The right side of the wall, rounded, to a finish via a crusty flake.
 
Rounded
V4 6B
11
Pudding
The wall on the left. V2 above mats.
 
Rounded
HVS 5c
12
Salt and Vinegar
The flared fissure has some juicy fist jams.
 
Rounded
HS 4b
13
Chips
The crack and rounded arete above. The start is a V2 problem.
 
Rounded
E2 5c
14
Peas
Traverse in from the left and finish up the right-hand side of the wall. The direct start is a testing V5 6C mantel.
 
Rounded
E4 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Hamper's Hang
    "Changed from 7A *** to V6 7A ***, 88% of 8 votes for V6 7A" 22/Jan

    Manchester Buttress
    "Should be a Top 50; but to echo previous comments make sure you are on double ro..." 15/Sep

    Constipation
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

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