The Cowper Stone

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill
5 mins

This isolated block of rock presents Stanage's final outpost, and what a tough task master it is. There is only a small collection of routes on this glorified boulder, but they include the worst set of holds, and biggest collection of rounded breaks anywhere in t'Peak. Climbers unused to gritstone might wonder at the grades of some of the routes. Guidebook page 191.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Zippyattrocity
The lowest break gives an arduous outing; sustained, technical and horribly rounded. Just the right-hand side wall is V6.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
V9 6c
2
Whatever Happened to Bob?
8m. Climb the left-hand side of the face right then left.
 
Rounded
E3 5c
3
Sad Amongst Friends
8m. Climb the blank central section of the face, finishing using a red wart on the lip of the final roof. The lower section is...
 
2 Stars
Rounded
E7 6c
4
Snug as a Thug on a Jug
8m. Start up the flared crack in the right-hand side of the face and follow this to flutings on its left. Move right to a short...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Rounded
E4 6b
5
Warmlove
8m. The direct finish to Snug as a Thug on a Jug involves a huge reach for a pebble (no long reach symbol; look at the first...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Rounded
E6 7a
6
Happy Amongst Friends
8m. The bulging wall just left of the arete is more of the same!
 
1 Stars
Rounded
E6 6c
7
Breakdance
8m. The bulging right-hand arete of the leaning front face of the buttress. Wild and weird contortions can be used but arenít...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
E4 6b
8
Traverse of the Gritstone Gods
16m. A superb and arduous right-to-left traverse of the buttress starting up Breakdance and finishing on the left arete. Follow...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
E4 6b
9
Leroy Slips a Disc
Poor holds lead up the right-hand wall.
 
Technical
Rounded
V8 6c
10
Head Spin
The right-hand side of the wall on rounded holds to a finish using a crusty flake.
 
Rounded
V3 6b
11
Pudding
The wall on the left.
 
Rounded
V0+ 5b
12
Salt and Vinegar
8m. The flared fissure has some juicy fist jams.
 
Rounded
HS 4b
13
Chips
The crack and rounded arete above. The finish is E1.
 
Rounded
V1 5c
14
Peas
Climb right of the arete, with a hard mantel to reach the ledge. Finishing up the right side of the wall to the top is worth E4...
 
Rounded
V5 6b
  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Martello Buttress
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

    Dover's Wall, Route 1
    "cracking route, nice exciting finish. Not sure where the laybacking comes in Pyt..." 28/Jul

    Wing Buttress
    "Direct start goes at about V6." 18/May

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start is similar in difficulty and danger to Kayak..." 03/May

    Manchester Buttress
    "Awkward at the top, just above the dragging rope...Anywho, good fun, and a nice ..." 29/Jan

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