Adjacent Areas
< None | New Mills - Right >
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Sun and Shade
Downhill
5 minsFrom the foot of the steps the first rock encountered is a shady bay with the classic line of Alcove Crack. Just beyond this is the soaring jutting edge of The Arete. The angle of the rock and the tree canopy means that routes here often stay dry during light summer rain.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Alcove Crack 20m. The dramatic fissure splitting the back wall of the shady recess of the Alcove is a steep and well-protected tussle. 5 user comments | 3 Stars Strong | HVS 5a |
2 |
Porky's Wall 8m. Fat boys might enjoy the fingery centre of the wall on the jutting buttress on the right-hand side of the alcove. | Technical Crimpy | HVS 5c |
3 |
Piggy's Crack 8m. The short crack in the wall. 2 user comments | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
4 |
The Steeple 8m. The steep arete on the right of the Alcove Try to avoid the tree - possibly impossible. 2 user comments | HVS 5a | |
5 |
Clotted Cream 8m. The short right arete of the squat buttress (not marked on topo) is pleasant enough. | VS 4c | |
6 |
The Arete 22m. The long and impressive arete is steep and intimidating, sadly some of the rock is a bit soft. Avoid the initial bulge on... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E3 5b |
7 |
Mather Crack 22m. A long and steep crack which gives a good pumpy pitch. The quality of the runners makes up a little for the angle and the... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | E2 5b |
8 |
Electric Circus 26m. A big scary pitch weaving its way up the wall. Climb to the top of the flake then traverse right (old peg) to a crack... 5 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E3 5c |
9 |
Oak Tree Wall 22m. The gap in the centre of the wall. Climb Electric Circus for 5m then traverse right and climb to, and through, the... 1 user comment | Fluttery | E3 5c |
10 |
The Grim Reaper 22m. An arduous outing up the right-hand side of the wall - bold and fierce. Climb the wall (technical crux) to a peg then ... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy Fluttery | E5 6b |