New Mills - Left

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun and Shade
5 mins
Downhill
Sheltered

From the foot of the steps the first rock encountered is a shady bay with the classic line of Alcove Crack. Just beyond this is the soaring jutting edge of The Arete. The angle of the rock and the tree canopy means that routes here often stay dry during light summer rain.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Alcove Crack
20m. The dramatic fissure splitting the back wall of the shady recess of the Alcove is a steep and well-protected tussle.
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
HVS 5a
2
Porky's Wall
8m. Fat boys might enjoy the fingery centre of the wall on the jutting buttress on the right-hand side of the alcove.
 
Technical
Crimpy
HVS 5c
3
Piggy's Crack
8m. The short crack in the wall.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
4
The Steeple
8m. The steep arete on the right of the Alcove Try to avoid the tree - possibly impossible.
2 user comments
 HVS 5a
5
Clotted Cream
8m. The short right arete of the squat buttress (not marked on topo) is pleasant enough.
 VS 4c
6
The Arete
22m. The long and impressive arete is steep and intimidating, sadly some of the rock is a bit soft. Avoid the initial bulge on...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E3 5b
7
Mather Crack
22m. A long and steep crack which gives a good pumpy pitch. The quality of the runners makes up a little for the angle and the...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5b
8
Electric Circus
26m. A big scary pitch weaving its way up the wall. Climb to the top of the flake then traverse right (old peg) to a crack...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E3 5c
9
Oak Tree Wall
22m. The gap in the centre of the wall. Climb Electric Circus for 5m then traverse right and climb to, and through, the...
1 user comment
 
Fluttery
E3 5c
10
The Grim Reaper
22m. An arduous outing up the right-hand side of the wall - bold and fierce. Climb the wall (technical crux) to a peg then ...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6b