New Mills - Right

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun and Shade
5 mins
Downhill
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

The right-hand side of the cliff has a fair collection of steep routes on reasonable rock. The arch of the road bridge far above makes this the Peak’s best wet-weather grit venue, and the angle of the routes ensures a good workout session. The easier routes here suffer from a lack of traffic.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Overlooked Groove
14m. From the strange reddish brown orrifice climb the stepped right-facing groove throughout. The crucial entry into the...
 HS 4b
2
Original Route
16m. Follow the 'giant's staircase' up and left to a mighty tree by awkward moves between good resting ledges. Never as easy as...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VD 3c
3
Cracked Corner
14m. Start up Original Route but continue in a direct line up the steep crack to the continuation groove above. The crux is...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
4
Viaduct Crack
14m. Start at a ledge (or more easily from the left) and climb the steep vague crackline until it is possible to trend right to...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5b
5
Viaduct Wall
14m. The ever-dry wall under the arches gives a steep pitch with a couple of reachy moves and a precarious mantelshelf to reach...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
E2 5c
6
Honcho
14m. Begin 2m left of Deception's twin cracks and pass a peg runner with difficultly. Continue direct passing a break to ledges...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E4 6b
7
Deception
14m. The twin bending cracks are crusty and currenlty have an ivy cornice to deal with.
 HVS 5a
8
The Redemption of a Grit Pegging Antichrist
16m. Climb to the tip of the ramp then head directly up the wall by sustained pumpy climbing to a finish up a shallow corner.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5c
9
Bionic's Wall
16m. Sustained and strenuous but good honest fun! From the middle of the ramp blast straight up the wall past 2 peg runners....
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E4 6a
10
Hallelujah Chorus
16m. From the tip of the ramp attack the wall to a juggy break, then the continuation leftwards.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
E5 6b
11
Heavy Duty
16m. Climb into the hanging groove (peg). At its top swing up and right before trending back left by pumpy climbing.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5b
12
King of the Swingers
26m. A pumpy diagonal that is not too hard but keeps on coming. Climb Heavy Duty to the peg then follow the break diagonally...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For NEW MILLS TOR

    The Redemption of a Grit Pegging Antichrist
    "Has a hold come off this? This is the 2nd time I've tried but not done this rout..." 15/Oct

    Heavy Duty
    "Aye, good route. Needs to be climbed quick unless you're a stamina monster. Hold..." 21/Jul

    King of the Swingers
    "A rather below average photo of this part of the crag in W Grit (2003) makes it ..." 09/May

    Original Route
    "There's a few loose flakes, but the holds are good thoughout. My first abseil d..." 03/May

    The Grim Reaper
    "Yes. I watched someone who now works at AW Stockport do it with the direct V9ish..." 26/Apr

    The Steeple
    "This sounds the same route as Clotted Cream?" 03/May

    Viaduct Wall
    "MAT not MAP whoops." 26/Jul

    Viaduct Crack
    "pouring down with rain ,dry as a bone on a wacky route" 14/Jun

    Alcove Crack
    "This is a really cool route, I really enjoyed it, lots of nice holds and gear." 12/May

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