Urania

Adjacent Areas
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Sport
Sun from mid-morning
2 mins
Uphill
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

This area is one of Europeís premier roof climbing crags and worth the attention of any and every hot-shot who thinks they have got a bit of stamina. Wonderland itself is the show-piece route of the crag giving sustained climbing on sizeable flat or sloping pockets at an obscene angle.
The areas to the right of the crag are most notable for the two towers of stones, glued together by expanding foam. These stacks provide the by-pass method to cross the massively undercut roofs which dominate the whole of this section of crag. The main attraction of this sector is the deceptively pumpy 6bís and 6cís above the stone stacks. These give immaculate climbing on huge buckets but are about twice as steep as they look (an optical illusion caused by the undercut starts and the even-steeper Wonderland Section of the crag). Guidebook page 6.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Cronache Marziaane
The crack system after the obligatory undercut start.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a
2
Sarajevo Top 50
A left-hand finish to Wonderland which is a good notch harder than its parent route.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a
3
Wonderland Top 50
A magnificent route. The start can be made from the stack of blocks, or boulderer out for a harder tick. If you do boulder it...
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a
4
Ukukele
 
2 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8b
5
World Music Top 50
The next route to aim for after you have done Wonderland.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
6
Fantasia
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8c
7
Raga
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
Pumpy
8c
8
Talpe Electroniche
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
8a+
9
Dissonanze
 
3 Stars
Technical
Strong
7c+
10
Caffe Surreale Top 50

1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Strong
8a
11
Canterbury Top 50
One of the great ticks of Isili. An impressive free-hanging start leads past some steep pulls to a breather below the roof....
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Strong
7b+
12
Ichozor
 
2 Stars
6b+
13
Kermit Tom
 
2 Stars
6b+
14
Ziggurat Top 50
The crag 'warm-up' is superb.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
6b
15
M.T.B
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
6c
16
Dark
Start way back in the depths and boulder out to the lip. The upwards bit is about 6c.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
7b
17
Voom Top 50
The groove above the right-hand stack.
 
3 Stars
6c
18
Off Topic
A vague arete just right of the groove with a super-sustained upper arete.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
19
Spaghetti Rock Top 50
A major pump-fest.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
20
Happy Feet
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6c
21
Strategia Obliqua
Boulder through the roofs to join Happy Feet.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
22
Rozzi Cibernetici
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
7a
23
Gerico
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
24
Uomo Ragno Top 50
The best of the four sharing this start.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7a
25
Nerve Net
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7b
  • Latest Comments

    For ISILI

    Plexiglass
    "this route is hidden behind some bushes. we only found a couple of bolts, no anc..." 29/Jul

    Mammuthones
    "I rather enjoyed this route - wouldn't say it was poor at all." 24/Apr

    Pinna Bianca
    "Difficult to tell whether this is 6b or not - depends which pockets you choose t..." 14/Jan top50

    Dark
    "Boring" 17/Apr

    Horus
    "A superb enjoyable route at the grade, worth 3 stars." 11/Feb top50

    Ziggurat
    "Getting started is very much the crux, then lovely climbing all the way to the l..." 29/Jun top50

    Caffe Surreale
    "a bit straight forward for 8a - 7c?" 05/Feb top50

    Ziggurat
    "pumpy!" 13/Jan top50

    Off Topic
    "pumpy is right! It's been a long time since I fell off my warm up...." 26/Feb

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