Punta Pilocca

Adjacent Areas
< Ruota del Tempo  |  None >

Sport
Lots of sun!
Uphill
10 mins

This is an extraordinary crag with quality routes of grade 3 and 7c+ sitting side-by-side on its immaculate grey limestone walls. The variety is amazing from the perfect grey slabs on the left to the steep tufa-covered walls in the centre and the gentle slabby-bowl on the right. There is something for everyone and virtually every pitch gives high quality climbing. It is one of the older crags in the area but, like many Sardinian crags, it is not remotely over-used and polish isnít a problem. The land around the crag has been extensively mined for many years judging by the derelict old buildings passed on the approach. The mining continues mercilessly however the crag itself is hidden from desolation and sits in a splendid location over-looking a fine valley. Guidebook page 19.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Priscilla
 
1 Stars
5
2
Rosa Fumetto Top 50
1) 52) 5+, 50m. A very long pitch to the top.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
5+
3
Amarcord

1 user comment
 
3 Stars
5+
4
Danze Lunari Top 50
1) 6a+2) 6a
 
3 Stars
6a+
5
Erba Cipollina Top 50
1) 6a2) 5+. The variation breaking off right below the roof is 6b+. There is a final trad pitch (4) to the top of the wall.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
6a
6
Bluff Top 50
1) 6a+2) 6a. The left-hand bolt line above the stance is 6a+. There is a final trad pitch (5+) to the top of the wall.
 
3 Stars
6a+
7
Due Anni Dopo
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+
8
Dertzu Uzala
 
1 Stars
5+
9
Dervisci
 6a
10
Samsara
1) 6a2) 5+. There is a final trad pitch (5+) to the top of the wall.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
5+
11
Il Gatto e la Volpe
 6b
12
Il Pinguino

1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b+
13
Bruciate I Piromani
 
1 Stars
Technical
6b
14
L'Aquilone Top 50
 
2 Stars
6a
15
Alter Ego

1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b+
16
Collegati Dalle Stelle
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b+
17
La Donna Blu
An extremely technical move.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a
18
Grigri Vuoti d'Indifferenza

1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
6c
19
Il Lupo Della Steppa Top 50
35m. Just left of the long wet streak.
 
3 Stars
6c+
20
Dolce Insofferenza
35m. There is a 7a+ variation on the left at mid-height.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
21
Australia
35m. Some great tufa-hugging at the start. Photo page 1.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c
22
Il Vento del Deserto
35m. A good bit harder than Australia.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
23
Ad Occhi Chiusi
30m. There is a new line up the front of the tufa, this line is just to the right. Without using the tufa is 7c.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7a+
24
Culture Club
30m. A very thin wall climb.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c
25
Cotton Club
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7c+
26
Paquito Top 50
Superb climbing with a high crux.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
27
Scrunch
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
28
Solitudine
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
7b+
29
Lo Stretto Indispensabile Top 50
 
2 Stars
7c+
30
Aracnide
Extremely fingery moves on thin holds.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7a+
31
Connettivina
 
2 Stars
7a+
32
Notturno di Chopin
 
1 Stars
6c
33
Antas Top 50
Just left of the huge hanging tufa.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
6b+
34
La Coccinella
The right-hand side of the tufa. Without bridging it is 6c+.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
6b
35
Origami
 
1 Stars
6b
36
Un-named
 
1 Stars
5+
37
Franca
 
1 Stars
4
38
Giraffon
 
1 Stars
4
39
Oamigu Top 50
 
2 Stars
3
  • Latest Comments

    For DOMUSNÒVAS AREA

    La Donna Blu
    "Given 6c in the local guide - but it's desperate for that grade. Can't decide wh..." 24/Apr

    Amadeus
    "Desperate! English 6b I thought" 21/Apr

    Erba Cipollina
    "Immaculate slab climbing. Seems hard for 6A, but then bolted slab routes often s..." 28/Oct top50

    Pfilp
    "The warm up roures, consequently very polished." 30/Jun

    Grigri Vuoti d'Indifferenza
    "Noticeably more run-out than the other routes on the crag." 17/Mar

    Rosa Fumetto
    "I found the anchors on the second pitch were only 20m off the top of the first p..." 17/Feb top50

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