Hell Gate

Trad
Afternoon sun
20 mins
Uphill

The finest set of hard climbs on the cliff are based around three jutting aretes. Half a dozen routes weigh in at E4 and above, with Journey into Freedom currently the hardest offering on the cliff. All are steep, fingery and very poorly protected. Those in search of something a lot less serious should enjoy the three Hell Gate routes over on the right. Guidebook page 52.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Down to Earth
12m. The right-hand face of the buttress is fingery, sustained and unprotected where it matters - the landing is unfriendly...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
Fluttery
E4 5c
2
On the Air
12m. The right-hand arete of the face is climbed on its right side until it is possible to teeter around onto the front face to...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6a
3
Journey into Freedom
12m. Bridge out of the wide cleft in the left wall and climb leftwards using undercuts to slap for the arete. After a couple of...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E7 6b
4
Seconds Out
12m. Mantel onto the jutting block, then move up and finger traverse the thin break all the way to the arete and a finish as...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6b
5
Hell Gate Gully
12m. The blocky central gully provides light relief from the more august outings that surround it. Climb a slab then bridge...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
M
6
News at Zen
10m. The right-hand wall of the gully is climbed centrally passing a useful black pocket. A side-runner lowers the grade to a...
 
1 Stars
E3 5c
7
Desolation Angel
12m. The central arete gives a superb route, climbed on its left-hand side throughout. A distant side-runner is often used at...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E6 6b
8
Hell Gate
14m. The deep groove has an awkward bulge early on and more tricky moves to leave the half-height niche. Not a bad effort for a...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
VD
9
Gavel Neese
14m. The blunt arete has a height-dependent start (at least 6a for shorties) and no runners until well above the crux. The...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E2 5b
10
Lucifer
12m. Climb Hell Gate Crack to the first overhang then step left and climb a thin crack to the roof. Pull over this and climb...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
Crimpy
E2 5c
11
Hell Gate Crack
12m. The steep flake-crack splitting the face leads awkwardly to the large overhang. Step right for an easier finish.
11 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HS 4b
12
Joie-de-Vivre
8m. The right arete of the wall to the break then extend-a-way to the top, safe but taxing and, if all else fails, escape left.
 
Reachy
Technical
Pumpy
HVS 5c
13
Primal Void
16m. Up the arete then traverse left under the roofs, crossing Hell Gate Crack to finish up the last moves of Gavel Neese.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 5a
  • Latest Comments

    For WHARNCLIFFE

    Just a Minute
    "Have to disagree with just about all of the above. It's certainly not 'hopeless'..." 10/May

    The Crack of Doom
    "I'm a little bulky through the shoulder and chest, I can get one shoulder in and..." 30/Mar

    Sidewinder
    "Not that reachy - my partner is fairly short but had no problem reaching the top..." 06/Aug

    Cannae
    "The other good, non-eliminate, non-wandering line on here, when finished up the ..." 05/May

    Great Buttress
    "The line as described in PGE (I was using the first edition) is clearly wrong. ..." 06/Apr

    The Flue
    "Only hard bit is getting into sentry box. Then a fun squirm. Hard Diff?" 02/Apr

    Desolation Angel
    "agree with all above. looks harder than it is. i would probably say E5, compared..." 13/Mar

    Scarlett's Wall Arete
    "Nice face climbing." 27/Oct

    Rook Chimney
    "A bit polished lower down and not a smooth climb i.e. bitty!" 26/Oct

    Banana Wall
    "agree with brown. E2 5c/6a depending on reach." 19/Oct

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