Hell Gate Area

Adjacent Areas
< Himmelswillen  |  Long John's Stride >

Early morning sun
25 mins

The finest set of hard climbs on the cliff based around a trio of jutting aretes. Half a dozen routes weigh in at E4 and above and all are steep, fingery and bold. Those in search of something less serious should enjoy Tower Face on the left and the Hell Gate routes on the right.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
Tower Face
The left-hand facet of the square buttress is split by a thin crack. Approach this via a short slab (awkward for the short and...
11 user comments
3 Stars
HS 4b
Down to Earth
The right-hand face of the buttress is fingery, sustained and unprotected where it matters - the landing is unfriendly too!...
1 Stars
E4 5c
On the Air
The right-hand arete of the face is climbed on its right side until it is possible to teeter around onto the front face to...
3 user comments
2 Stars
E5 6a
Journey into Freedom
Bridge out of the wide cleft in the left wall and climb leftwards using undercuts to slap for the arete. After a couple of...
1 user comment
1 Stars
E7 6b
Seconds Out
Ding, ding! Mantel onto the jutting block, then move up and finger traverse the thin break all the way to the arete and a...
1 Stars
E5 6b
Hell Gate Gully
The blocky central gully provides light relief from the more august outings that surround it. Climb a slab then bridge past...
2 user comments
1 Stars
News at Zen
The right wall of the gully is climbed centrally passing a useful black pocket. A side-runner in the gully to the left lowers...
1 Stars
E3 5c
Desolation Angel
The central arete gives a fine route, climbed on its left-hand side throughout. A distant side-runner is often used at E5,...
4 user comments
3 Stars
E6 6b
Hell Gate
The deep groove has an awkward bulge early on and more tricky moves to leave the half-height niche. Not a bad effort for a...
5 user comments
2 Stars
Gavel Neese
The blunt arete has a height-dependent start (at least 6a for shorties) and no runners before the break (which takes a very big...
5 user comments
1 Stars
E2 5b
Climb Hell Gate Crack to the first overhang (avoiding it via the crack just left is possible but artificial), then step left...
2 user comments
1 Stars
E2 5c
Hell Gate Crack
The steep flake-crack splitting the face leads to the large overhang - the central section is both pumpy and awkward to...
11 user comments
2 Stars
HS 4b
The right arete of the wall to the break then extend-a-way to the top. Safe but taxing, if all else fails, escape to the left.
HVS 5c
Primal Void
Starting round to the right climb the arete then traverse left under the roofs, crossing Hell Gate Crack to finish up the last...
1 user comment
1 Stars
HVS 5a
Ce ne Fait Rien
Start right of the arete where a wide crack leads to bulges then escape leftwards under the roofs to Hell Gate Crack.
1 Stars
HVS 5b
Well Now It Is
A dynamic direct finish through the bulges.
E2 6a
Start as for the last route but follow the juggy crack right then back left. Short and steep.
 VS 4c
Green Groove
The deeper left-hand one is a green groove.
1 user comment
This is the thinner right-hand one.
 HS 4b
  • Latest Comments


    Deep Chimney
    "Changed from D * to D *, no votes" 23/Mar

    Just a Minute
    "Have to disagree with just about all of the above. It's certainly not 'hopeless'..." 10/May

    The Crack of Doom
    "I'm a little bulky through the shoulder and chest, I can get one shoulder in and..." 30/Mar

    "Not that reachy - my partner is fairly short but had no problem reaching the top..." 06/Aug

    "The other good, non-eliminate, non-wandering line on here, when finished up the ..." 05/May

    Great Buttress
    "The line as described in PGE (I was using the first edition) is clearly wrong. ..." 06/Apr

    The Flue
    "Only hard bit is getting into sentry box. Then a fun squirm. Hard Diff?" 02/Apr

    Desolation Angel
    "agree with all above. looks harder than it is. i would probably say E5, compared..." 13/Mar

    Scarlett's Wall Arete
    "Nice face climbing." 27/Oct

    Rook Chimney
    "A bit polished lower down and not a smooth climb i.e. bitty!" 26/Oct

    Banana Wall
    "agree with brown. E2 5c/6a depending on reach." 19/Oct

    Great Buttress Arete
    "It is possible with some care and attention to place adequate wire protection. ..." 14/Oct

    Easy Groove
    "More a chimney than a groove, though climbed by bridging rather than chimneying...." 07/Sep

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