Adjacent Areas
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The finest set of hard climbs on the cliff are based around three jutting aretes. Half a dozen routes weigh in at E4 and above, with Journey into Freedom currently the hardest offering on the cliff. All are steep, fingery and very poorly protected. Those in search of something a lot less serious should enjoy the three Hell Gate routes over on the right. Guidebook page 52.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Down to Earth 12m. The right-hand face of the buttress is fingery, sustained and unprotected where it matters - the landing is unfriendly... | 1 Stars Pumpy Crimpy Fluttery | E4 5c |
2 |
On the Air 12m. The right-hand arete of the face is climbed on its right side until it is possible to teeter around onto the front face to... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Fluttery | E5 6a |
3 |
Journey into Freedom 12m. Bridge out of the wide cleft in the left wall and climb leftwards using undercuts to slap for the arete. After a couple of... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Fluttery | E7 6b |
4 |
Seconds Out 12m. Mantel onto the jutting block, then move up and finger traverse the thin break all the way to the arete and a finish as... | 1 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E5 6b |
5 |
Hell Gate Gully 12m. The blocky central gully provides light relief from the more august outings that surround it. Climb a slab then bridge... 2 user comments | 1 Stars | M |
6 |
News at Zen 10m. The right-hand wall of the gully is climbed centrally passing a useful black pocket. A side-runner lowers the grade to a... | 1 Stars | E3 5c |
7 |
Desolation Angel 12m. The central arete gives a superb route, climbed on its left-hand side throughout. A distant side-runner is often used at... 4 user comments | 3 Stars Technical | E6 6b |
8 |
Hell Gate 14m. The deep groove has an awkward bulge early on and more tricky moves to leave the half-height niche. Not a bad effort for a... 5 user comments | 2 Stars Graunchy | VD |
9 |
Gavel Neese 14m. The blunt arete has a height-dependent start (at least 6a for shorties) and no runners until well above the crux. The... 5 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy Fluttery | E2 5b |
10 |
Lucifer 12m. Climb Hell Gate Crack to the first overhang then step left and climb a thin crack to the roof. Pull over this and climb... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Strong Crimpy | E2 5c |
11 |
Hell Gate Crack 12m. The steep flake-crack splitting the face leads awkwardly to the large overhang. Step right for an easier finish. 11 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | HS 4b |
12 |
Joie-de-Vivre 8m. The right arete of the wall to the break then extend-a-way to the top, safe but taxing and, if all else fails, escape left. | Reachy Technical Pumpy | HVS 5c |
13 |
Primal Void 16m. Up the arete then traverse left under the roofs, crossing Hell Gate Crack to finish up the last moves of Gavel Neese. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy | VS 5a |