The Chant

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Early morning sun
2 mins
Level
Windy

The first part of Burbage offers bouldering and short routes and is always busy. The routes are packed in and feel quite tough for their grade, as is to be expected for short, roadside test-pieces. The proximity of the parking (and the city) means it is always a good bet for a quick-fix when time is tight.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
RT Wall
The north-facing side-wall climbed centrally by a stretchy move.
 f5+
2
Route 1
The left arete of the wall has a tricky last move.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
3
Route 1.25
An eliminate just right of the arete. Around 5c.
1 user comment
 
Technical
f5+
4
Route 1.5
The wall 2m right of the arete has a hard start. Around 5b.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
f5
5
Route 2
Climb the steep wall and crack, 3m right of the arete, using ancient chipped and well-polished holds to start.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4a
6
Route 2.5
A fingery little number between the cracks eases above.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
f5
7
Route 3
The zig-zag crack in the centre of the wall is another with a slippery start and jugs above.
10 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4a
8
Route 3.5
Plugs the non-gap. The crux is quite high. Worth 6a UK tech.
1 user comment
 
Technical
f6A
9
Route 4
Just left of the arete is a thin wall with tough finale.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
f5+
10
Route 5
The juggy right arete of the wall.
 HVD 4a
11
Cranberry Wall
This narrow face is a popular little outing.
1 user comment
 VD
12
Cranberry Crack
The widening, left-slanting crack is awkward. Large gear needed.
4 user comments
 VD
13
The Chant
The centre of the wall leads to tricky right-facing mantelshelf.
19 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS 5a
14
The Chant Direct Finish
A left-hand finish is desperate!
4 user comments
 E2 6a
15
The Chant Direct Start
Tackle the wall right of the usual start on thin holds.
 HVS 5b
16
20-foot Crack
Too-thin jams and slippery footholds make this one feel tricky.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
S 4b
17
The Curse
A problem requiring some harsh crimping. Hard for the short.
18 user comments
 
1 Stars
f5
18
Lost in France
A technical start on tiny holds, but fortunately easing rapidly.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
f5+
  • Latest Comments

    For BURBAGE NORTH

    Route 1.25
    "Changed from VS 5c to f5+, no votes" 23/Mar

    Submission
    "This only felt about VS 4b - I think the move is reach dependent (I'm 6' 0"..." 05/Nov

    Peter's Progress
    "Climbed direct up the incipient crack above the tree at the end of the traverse...." 01/Jun

    Nicotine Stain
    "Changed from V4 6B 6b * to V4 6B *, no votes" 28/May

    Side Face
    "Balancy moves, easier for the tall. It's all in the initial move for the break.T..." 11/Jun

    Remergence
    "Sandbag or not, it is still a route and the crux is the desperate long reach at ..." 02/Jun

    Ash Tree Variations
    "The correct name of this route is Ash Tree Variation, not 'Variations'" 22/Apr

    The Chant Direct Finish
    "Solid 6a using small crimps if you can't reach from the good footholds or span f..." 29/Nov

    Bilberry Cake
    "Don't lead harder than VS but didn't find this too difficult, certainly easier c..." 19/Nov

    Hollyash Crack
    "I don't see how you protect this without giant cams. It goes as a good layback ..." 30/Jul

    Bilberry Cake
    "Agree with above, no way HVS - More like HS 4c. Not a bad little one move route ..." 24/May

    Knight's Move
    "The moves weren't too difficult but I wasn't totally happy with the gear in the ..." 21/Nov

    Now or Never
    "Good climbing and well protected, take a friend 3.5 to protect the crucial barn ..." 27/Oct

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