Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level
2 minsWindy
The first section of Burbage North offers plenty of bouldering and short routes which are always immensely popular. This is partly because of their accessibility and partly because of their quality. Almost all of the routes feel quite tough for their grade, though this is to be expected for short, road-side test-pieces. The closeness of the cliff to the parking (and the city), plus its relatively sheltered situation, means it is always a good bet for a quick workout when time is tight. Guidebook page 196.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Route 1 6m. The left arete of the wall has a tricky last move. 7 user comments | 1 Stars | HS 4b |
2 |
Route 1.5 6m. The wall just right of the arete has a hard start. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | VS 5b |
3 |
Route 2 6m. Climb the steep wall and crack, 3m right of the arete, using ancient chipped and well-polished holds to start. 5 user comments | 1 Stars | S 4a |
4 |
Route 2.5 6m. A fingery little number between the cracks eases above. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Crimpy | VS 5b |
5 |
Route 3 6m. The zigzag crack in the centre of the wall is another with a slippery start, it is juggy above. 10 user comments | 1 Stars | HVD 4a |
6 |
Route 4 5m. Just left of the arete is a thin wall with tough finale. 6 user comments | Technical Crimpy | HVS 5c |
7 |
Route 5 5m. The juggy right arete of the wall. | S 4b | |
8 |
Cranberry Wall 6m. The narrow face is a popular little outing. 1 user comment | VD | |
9 |
Cranberry Crack 6m. The gradually-widening and left-slanting crack is awkward. Large gear is need to protect it adequately. 4 user comments | VD | |
10 |
The Chant 6m. The centre of the wall leads to tricky right-facing mantelshelf. Perhaps HVS if you choose to solo it, on-sight! 19 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | VS 5a |
11 |
The Chant Direct Finish 6m. The direct finish is desperate! 4 user comments | Reachy | E2 6a |
12 |
The Chant Direct Start 6m. The wall right of the usual start on rounded holds. | Rounded | HVS 5c |
13 |
20-foot Crack 6.15m. Thin jams and slippery footholds always make this one feel harder than it should. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | S 4b |
14 |
The Curse 8m. A fine boulder-problem requiring some harsh crimping. It can be aptly named (and 5c) for the short, swearing helps! 17 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy Crimpy | VS 5b |
15 |
Lost in France 8m. A technical start on tiny holds but it eases rapidly after the first couple of pulls. 4 user comments | Technical Crimpy | VS 5c |