The Chant

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  Triangle Buttress >

Trad
Sun from mid-morning
2 mins
Level

The first section of Burbage North offers plenty of bouldering and short routes which are always immensely popular. This is partly because of their accessibility and partly because of their quality. Almost all of the routes feel quite tough for their grade, though this is to be expected for short, road-side test-pieces. The closeness of the cliff to the parking (and the city), plus its relatively sheltered situation, means it is always a good bet for a quick workout when time is tight.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
RT Wall
The north facing side-wall climbed centrally by a stretchy move.
 
Reachy
V2 5c
2
Route 1
The left arete of the wall has a tricky last move.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
3
Route 1.25
An eliminate just right of the arete.
 
Technical
VS 5c
4
Route 1.5
The wall just 3m of the arete has a hard start.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS 5b
5
Route 2
Climb the steep wall and crack, 3m right of the arete, using ancient chipped and well-polished holds to start.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4a
6
Route 2.5
A fingery little number between the cracks eases above.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
VS 5b
7
Route 3
The zig-zag crack in the centre of the wall is another with a slippery start and jugs above.
10 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4a
8
Route 3.5
Plugs the none-gap. The crux is quite high.
 
Technical
E1 6a
9
Route 4
Just left of the arete is a thin wall with tough finale.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
HVS 5c
10
Route 5
The juggy right arete of the wall.
 HVD 4a
11
Cranberry Wall
This narrow face is a popular little outing.
1 user comment
 VD
12
Cranberry Crack
The widening, left-slanting crack is awkward. Large gear needed.
4 user comments
 VD
13
The Chant
The centre of the wall leads to tricky right-facing mantelshelf.
19 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS 5a
14
The Chant Direct Finish
A left-hand finish is desperate!
4 user comments
 
Reachy
E2 6a
15
The Chant Direct Start
Tackle the wall right of the usual start on thin holds.
 
Rounded
HVS 5b
16
20-foot Crack
Too-thin jams and slippery footholds make this one feel tricky.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
S 4b
17
The Curse
A problem requiring some harsh crimping. Hard for the short.
17 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
VS 5b
18
Lost in France
A technical start on tiny holds, but fortunately easing rapidly.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
VS 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For BURBAGE NORTH

    All Quiet Direct
    "Changed from V7 7A+ 6c to V7 7A+, no votes" 04/Feb

    Submission
    "This only felt about VS 4b - I think the move is reach dependent (I'm 6' 0"..." 05/Nov

    Peter's Progress
    "Climbed direct up the incipient crack above the tree at the end of the traverse...." 01/Jun

    Nicotine Stain
    "Changed from V4 6B 6b * to V4 6B *, no votes" 28/May

    Side Face
    "Balancy moves, easier for the tall. It's all in the initial move for the break.T..." 11/Jun

    Remergence
    "Sandbag or not, it is still a route and the crux is the desperate long reach at ..." 02/Jun

    Ash Tree Variations
    "The correct name of this route is Ash Tree Variation, not 'Variations'" 22/Apr

    The Chant Direct Finish
    "Solid 6a using small crimps if you can't reach from the good footholds or span f..." 29/Nov

    Bilberry Cake
    "Don't lead harder than VS but didn't find this too difficult, certainly easier c..." 19/Nov

    Hollyash Crack
    "I don't see how you protect this without giant cams. It goes as a good layback ..." 30/Jul

    Bilberry Cake
    "Agree with above, no way HVS - More like HS 4c. Not a bad little one move route ..." 24/May

    Knight's Move
    "The moves weren't too difficult but I wasn't totally happy with the gear in the ..." 21/Nov

    Now or Never
    "Good climbing and well protected, take a friend 3.5 to protect the crucial barn ..." 27/Oct

    Search for comments