The Chant

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Early morning sun
2 mins
Level
Windy

The first part of Burbage offers bouldering and short routes and is always busy. The routes are packed in and feel quite tough for their grade, as is to be expected for short, roadside test-pieces. The proximity of the parking (and the city) means it is always a good bet for a quick-fix when time is tight.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Route 1
The left arete of the wall has a tricky last move.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS
2
Route 1.25
An eliminate just right of the arete.
 
Technical
VS
3
Route 1.5
The wall 2m right of the arete has a hard start.
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS
4
Route 2
Climb the steep wall and crack, 3m right of the arete, using ancient chipped and well-polished holds to start.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
S
5
Route 2.5
A fingery little number between the cracks eases above.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
VS
6
Route 3
The zig-zag crack in the centre of the wall is another with a slippery start and jugs above.
10 user comments
 
1 Stars
S
7
Route 3.5
Plugs the non-gap. The crux is quite high.
 
Technical
E1
8
Route 4
Just left of the arete is a thin wall with tough finale.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
HVS
9
Route 5
The juggy right arete of the wall.
 HVD
10
Cranberry Wall
This narrow face is a popular little outing.
1 user comment
 VD
11
Cranberry Crack
The widening, left-slanting crack is awkward. Large gear needed.
4 user comments
 VD
12
The Chant
The centre of the wall leads to tricky right-facing mantelshelf.
19 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS
13
The Chant Direct Finish
A left-hand finish is desperate!
4 user comments
 
Reachy
E2
14
The Chant Direct Start
Tackle the wall right of the usual start on thin holds.
 
Rounded
HVS
15
20-foot Crack
Too-thin jams and slippery footholds make this one feel tricky.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
S
16
The Curse
A problem requiring some harsh crimping. Hard for the short.
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
VS
17
Lost in France
A technical start on tiny holds, but fortunately easing rapidly.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
VS
  • Latest Comments

    For BURBAGE NORTH

    Submission
    "This only felt about VS 4b - I think the move is reach dependent (I'm 6' 0"..." 05/Nov

    Peter's Progress
    "Climbed direct up the incipient crack above the tree at the end of the traverse...." 01/Jun

    Side Face
    "Balancy moves, easier for the tall. It's all in the initial move for the break.T..." 11/Jun

    Remergence
    "Sandbag or not, it is still a route and the crux is the desperate long reach at ..." 02/Jun

    Ash Tree Variations
    "The correct name of this route is Ash Tree Variation, not 'Variations'" 22/Apr

    The Chant Direct Finish
    "Solid 6a using small crimps if you can't reach from the good footholds or span f..." 29/Nov

    Bilberry Cake
    "Don't lead harder than VS but didn't find this too difficult, certainly easier c..." 19/Nov

    Hollyash Crack
    "I don't see how you protect this without giant cams. It goes as a good layback ..." 30/Jul

    Bilberry Cake
    "Agree with above, no way HVS - More like HS 4c. Not a bad little one move route ..." 24/May

    Knight's Move
    "The moves weren't too difficult but I wasn't totally happy with the gear in the ..." 21/Nov

    Now or Never
    "Good climbing and well protected, take a friend 3.5 to protect the crucial barn ..." 27/Oct

    Greeny Crack
    "Top route, got the heart going without desperation. Ankle/knee jam in the crack ..." 04/May

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