The Chant

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Sun from mid-morning
2 mins
Level

The first section of Burbage North offers plenty of bouldering and short routes which are always immensely popular. This is partly because of their accessibility and partly because of their quality. Almost all of the routes feel quite tough for their grade, though this is to be expected for short, road-side test-pieces. The closeness of the cliff to the parking (and the city), plus its relatively sheltered situation, means it is always a good bet for a quick workout when time is tight. Guidebook page 196.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Route 1
6m. The left arete of the wall has a tricky last move.
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
2
Route 1.5
6m. The wall just right of the arete has a hard start.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS 5b
3
Route 2
6m. Climb the steep wall and crack, 3m right of the arete, using ancient chipped and well-polished holds to start.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4a
4
Route 2.5
6m. A fingery little number between the cracks eases above.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
VS 5b
5
Route 3
6m. The zigzag crack in the centre of the wall is another with a slippery start, it is juggy above.
10 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVD 4a
6
Route 4
5m. Just left of the arete is a thin wall with tough finale.
6 user comments
 
Technical
Crimpy
HVS 5c
7
Route 5
5m. The juggy right arete of the wall.
 S 4b
8
Cranberry Wall
6m. The narrow face is a popular little outing.
1 user comment
 VD
9
Cranberry Crack
6m. The gradually-widening and left-slanting crack is awkward. Large gear is need to protect it adequately.
4 user comments
 VD
10
The Chant
6m. The centre of the wall leads to tricky right-facing mantelshelf. Perhaps HVS if you choose to solo it, on-sight!
19 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS 5a
11
The Chant Direct Finish
6m. The direct finish is desperate!
4 user comments
 
Reachy
E2 6a
12
The Chant Direct Start
6m. The wall right of the usual start on rounded holds.
 
Rounded
HVS 5c
13
20-foot Crack
6.15m. Thin jams and slippery footholds always make this one feel harder than it should.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
S 4b
14
The Curse
8m. A fine boulder-problem requiring some harsh crimping. It can be aptly named (and 5c) for the short, swearing helps!
17 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
VS 5b
15
Lost in France
8m. A technical start on tiny holds but it eases rapidly after the first couple of pulls.
4 user comments
 
Technical
Crimpy
VS 5c
  • Latest Comments

    For BURBAGE NORTH

    Peter's Progress
    "Climbed direct up the incipient crack above the tree at the end of the traverse...." 01/Jun

    Nicotine Stain
    "Changed from V4 6B 6b * to V4 6B *, no votes" 28/May

    Side Face
    "Balancy moves, easier for the tall. It's all in the initial move for the break.T..." 11/Jun

    Remergence
    "Sandbag or not, it is still a route and the crux is the desperate long reach at ..." 02/Jun

    Ash Tree Variations
    "The correct name of this route is Ash Tree Variation, not 'Variations'" 22/Apr

    The Chant Direct Finish
    "Solid 6a using small crimps if you can't reach from the good footholds or span f..." 29/Nov

    Bilberry Cake
    "Don't lead harder than VS but didn't find this too difficult, certainly easier c..." 19/Nov

    Hollyash Crack
    "I don't see how you protect this without giant cams. It goes as a good layback ..." 30/Jul

    Bilberry Cake
    "Agree with above, no way HVS - More like HS 4c. Not a bad little one move route ..." 24/May

    Knight's Move
    "The moves weren't too difficult but I wasn't totally happy with the gear in the ..." 21/Nov

    Now or Never
    "Good climbing and well protected, take a friend 3.5 to protect the crucial barn ..." 27/Oct

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