Upper Western Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill
60 mins

The western-most decent cliff hereabouts has a fine sunny aspect and some good routes on the Upper Tier. The Lower Tier is dirty and best avoided and the left-hand side of the upper face is a bit crusty. Despite this the upper right-hand tier has some fine routes on good rock and in as fine a setting as anywhere on the moor.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Spike Chimney
16m. The deep rift on the left is worth seeking out and is climbed, passing the huge ringing flake of the spike, en route.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
D
2
Once in a Blue Moon
22m. The left arete of the buttress has taxing and reachy moves at mid height with interesting gear. Above this things ease.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E3 6a
3
The Dark Side of the Moon
18m. The right arete of the buttress is approached through bulges (big thread) and climbed with a brief excursion onto its...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
E3 5c
4
Extinguisher Chimney
18m. A classic narrowing-chimney which is less of a battle than it looks. Face right and squirm into the narrows to reach a...
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
5
Candle Buttress
18m. The buttress right of Extinguisher Chimney is gained awkwardly from the right and climbed delicately (useful flake round...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HVS 5a
6
Leaf Shelf
12m. Pull into the hanging crack with Diculty to reach the right trending crack-line which gives easier climbing.
 VS 4c
7
Intermediate Route
12m. Climb the striated wall slightly leftwards then finish back right up the rib that forms the edge of the previous route
3 user comments
 HS 4b
8
South Wall
12m. A little gem of a layback up the left-trending flakes. Western Grit's excellent answer to Heaven Crack.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
VD
9
Pedestal Climb
8m. The front face of the squat pedestal leads to a groove.
 
1 Stars
D
10
45 Degrees
6m. The short and sketchy slab is a good test of technique and is much steeper than the name suggests.
 HVS 5b
11
Curving Crack
6m. The obviously-named groove is tricky to enter then eases.
 S 4b
12
Rock Reptile
6m. Slink up the right wall of the open recess using a fingery flake to make progress.
 
Crimpy
HVS 5b
13
Singer Corner
8m. Enter the hanging layback with Diculty though on 'biffos'.
 S 4b
14
M.G. Route
8m. The steep and juggy arete is quite a gripper.
 
Strong
HS 4a
15
Monkey Magic
8m. The steep wall to the right of the arete has a useful flake hold and provides good technical moves.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
HVS 5b
16
The Funnel
6m. The obviously named feature is fine for double jointed dwarfs, and a battle for the rest of us.
 HS 4b
17
Eastern Promise
8m. Climb the wall starting on the right up a thin crack and continuing with care.
 HVS 5b
18
Eastern Crack
8m. The short-lived crack on glorious jams.
 
1 Stars
S 4a
19
Eastern Arete
8m. Pull leftwards onto the hanging arete and then sprint.
 HVS 5b
20
End Wall
8m. The final short but unprotected wall on sloping holds.
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
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  • Latest Comments

    For KINDER DOWNFALL

    Intermediate Route
    "Definately a very powerfull moves round the overhang but then it is all over." 06/Sep

    Zigzag
    "great atmosphere, and not as slippery as the green shade made it look." 01/Aug

    Zigzag
    "You don't get many VDs that are as steep, juggy and in such a superb setting as ..." 27/Jun

    Zigzag
    "The highest ratio of jugs per metre of any route I can remember!" 01/Jun

    Zigzag
    "Great climb and well worth the trip. The top move took some thought but as with ..." 17/Apr

    Downfall South Corner
    ""Clean as you climb"...don't leave it to others!" 16/Dec

    Downfall South Corner
    "Might be worth a second star if cleaned up." 14/Dec

    South Wall
    ""Western Grit's excellent answer to Heaven Crack" How many answers ..." 13/Aug

    Embarkation Parade
    "A good adventure but looks awful. We did our bit as gardeners but much more is n..." 10/Sep

    Intermediate Route
    "Might be harder for the short since I broke a foothold off of the lip near the b..." 16/Feb

    Zigzag
    "Why are there no comments for this? Surely the best climb for atmosphere at its..." 08/Aug

    The Dark Side of the Moon
    "Easy for the tall (6 foot), and I would have thought desperate for the short (le..." 19/Jul

    Pegasus Left-hand
    "Filthy." 18/Jul

    Crooked Arete
    "A classic route up the arete for those who like to pose for the large numbers of..." 11/Jul

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