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Afternoon sun
Level
1 minThe quarry is home to one of Lancashire’s most famous routes up the elegant groove which is also a candidate for the longest route name around; Mohammed the Mad Monk of Moorside Home for Mental Misfits. Around this classic are a number of other routes which vary from ‘reasonable’ to ‘minor eliminate’ in status but there will probably be some to keep you busy. The slabby wall left of the pool is home to the best selection of climbs in the quarry, all are worthwhile and all are poorly protected. To the right of the pool the well-positioned Splash Arete is a good lower grade route.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Mohammed the Medieval Melancholic 14m. The clean crack left of the arete is approached up ledges and gives a couple of steep moves to easy ground. 2 user comments | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
2 |
Mohammed Arete 14m. The arete is delicate and the gear sparse where it matters. After an easy start, boldly layback the right-hand side of the... 3 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | E1 5a |
3 |
Mohammed the Mad Monk of Moorside Home for Mental Misfits 16m. Classic. Climb the ledgy left arete then balance right into the beckoning groove. Up this delicately to ledges out right... 9 user comments | 3 Stars Reachy | VS 4c |
4 |
Going For the One 20m. Climb to the overlap then use the flakes on the right to reach a traverse leading out left to a rest in the Monk's Groove.... 4 user comments | E2 5b | |
5 |
Mohammed the Morbid Mogul 14m. The flake leads to ledges, move right to the carved letters DC and a step up and left to another ledge. Finish up the... 3 user comments | S 4a | |
6 |
Timepiece 28m. A wandering oddity though with plenty of good climbing. Climb past the red sandy 'arse' and up the pocketed wall to a... | 1 Stars | HVS 5a |
7 |
Concave Wall 18m. Pleasant climbing but somewhat lacking in protection. Climb awkwardly onto the ledge the follow the open groove until an... 1 user comment | 1 Stars | S 4a |
8 |
Complete Streaker 22m. Exciting and bold, a fall may reach the waterline! Climb Concave Wall then follow the obvious break out right almost to... 5 user comments | 3 Stars Fluttery | VS 4c |
9 |
Mad Karoo 20m. Good climbing but not overly endowed with protection. Climb on the ledge via the groove and then access the flake on the... 6 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy | HVS 5a |
10 |
Time 20m. A bold number. Climb Mad Karoo to the break then head up into the shallow groove using a good pocket to make a harrowing... 7 user comments | 2 Stars Fluttery | E1 5a |
11 |
End of Time 20m. Another route with bold feel. From the mantel on the two previous routes trend right up the steeping wall to the break and... 6 user comments | 2 Stars Fluttery | E2 5b |
12 |
That's All it Takes 20m. Climb onto a narrow ledge then head up the highly technical face to a crescent-shaped overlap. Pull through the left side... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical | E4 6b |
13 |
Flick of the Wrist 20m. Start from a tiny ledge above the waterline (try keeping the ropes out of the water) and swing left onto the front face at... 4 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | E2 6a |
14 |
Last Day but One 10m. The arete it taken first on the right then on the left. Protection is non existant though the pond offers the prospect of... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Fluttery | E3 5c |
15 |
Splash Arete 16m. A great little outing with an exposed finale. Climb the slab then flop onto a ledge on the left (possible thread belay in... 2 user comments | 2 Stars | VD |