The Quarry

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Trad
Afternoon sun
1 min
Level
Sheltered

The quarry is home to one of Lancashire’s most famous routes up the elegant groove which is also a candidate for the longest route name around; Mohammed the Mad Monk of Moorside Home for Mental Misfits. Around this classic are a number of other routes which vary from ‘reasonable’ to ‘minor eliminate’ in status but there will probably be some to keep you busy. The slabby wall left of the pool is home to the best selection of climbs in the quarry, all are worthwhile and all are poorly protected. To the right of the pool the well-positioned Splash Arete is a good lower grade route.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Mohammed the Medieval Melancholic
14m. The clean crack left of the arete is approached up ledges and gives a couple of steep moves to easy ground.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
2
Mohammed Arete
14m. The arete is delicate and the gear sparse where it matters. After an easy start, boldly layback the right-hand side of the...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E1 5a
3
Mohammed the Mad Monk of Moorside Home for Mental Misfits
16m. Classic. Climb the ledgy left arete then balance right into the beckoning groove. Up this delicately to ledges out right...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
VS 4c
4
Going For the One
20m. Climb to the overlap then use the flakes on the right to reach a traverse leading out left to a rest in the Monk's Groove....
4 user comments
 E2 5b
5
Mohammed the Morbid Mogul
14m. The flake leads to ledges, move right to the carved letters DC and a step up and left to another ledge. Finish up the...
3 user comments
 S 4a
6
Timepiece
28m. A wandering oddity though with plenty of good climbing. Climb past the red sandy 'arse' and up the pocketed wall to a...
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
7
Concave Wall
18m. Pleasant climbing but somewhat lacking in protection. Climb awkwardly onto the ledge the follow the open groove until an...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
S 4a
8
Complete Streaker
22m. Exciting and bold, a fall may reach the waterline! Climb Concave Wall then follow the obvious break out right almost to...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
VS 4c
9
Mad Karoo
20m. Good climbing but not overly endowed with protection. Climb on the ledge via the groove and then access the flake on the...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
HVS 5a
10
Time
20m. A bold number. Climb Mad Karoo to the break then head up into the shallow groove using a good pocket to make a harrowing...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E1 5a
11
End of Time
20m. Another route with bold feel. From the mantel on the two previous routes trend right up the steeping wall to the break and...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5b
12
That's All it Takes
20m. Climb onto a narrow ledge then head up the highly technical face to a crescent-shaped overlap. Pull through the left side...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4 6b
13
Flick of the Wrist
20m. Start from a tiny ledge above the waterline (try keeping the ropes out of the water) and swing left onto the front face at...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2 6a
14
Last Day but One
10m. The arete it taken first on the right then on the left. Protection is non existant though the pond offers the prospect of...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5c
15
Splash Arete
16m. A great little outing with an exposed finale. Climb the slab then flop onto a ledge on the left (possible thread belay in...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
VD
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  • Latest Comments

    For DENHAM

    Time
    "A seriously good route (though sort of surprised how good it was). Great climbin..." 15/Sep

    Time
    "Led this for the second time last week about 2 years since I last did it. Bold b..." 13/May

    Mohammed the Morbid Mogul
    "Led it at the weekend. The traverse felt exposed as the last bit of gear was bel..." 10/Apr

    Complete Streaker
    "I fell off "streaking" up the arete, wasn't far off the waterline !! I..." 05/Jun

    Going For the One
    "A while since I did this, but I remember it felt a little out there moving round..." 05/Mar

    Time
    "Oops - i meant to say: certainly not worth E2. Definitely worth E1 ;)" 21/Feb

    Last Day but One
    "Usual Lancs nonsense grading. The pools about 24" deep by the way." 05/Sep

    Complete Streaker
    "bomber cams next to the bolt, you dont need it anyway. Still VS." 15/Aug

    Mohammed the Morbid Mogul
    "The ledge has no pro at all, is well overgrown, scary move to ledge." 30/Jun

    Splash Arete
    "Nice airy finish, a good route, if a little grubby." 23/Jun

    Mohammed the Mad Monk of Moorside Home for Mental Misfits
    "Bit bold on the first section, good technical climbing." 22/Jun

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