The Edge

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Trad
Afternoon sun
20 mins
Uphill

This compact buttress is divided by a series of wide chimneys up which many of the easier and more traditional lines go with Central Crack being the pick. The other quality routes tend to be on the faces with Little Miss Id and her Variations probably being the best.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Slim Jim
8m. The hanging crack that faces the top of the roman road.
1 user comment
 VS 5a
2
Manibus et Pedibusque
12m. A fierce and scary traverse of the left wall of the chimney.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E4 6a
3
Nor Nor' Chimney
12m. Enter the cave recess then do battle with the chimney rising from its left-hand corner.
 VD
4
North Cave
12m. The easier exit from the care is rightwards up another chimney. The Direct Start is a grovelly 4c.
 M
5
Belly on a Plate
12m. Delightful! Climb the groove then flop out left onto the ledge. Finish up the well-positioned right arete of the chimney.
 VS 4c
6
The Mangler
12m. The leaning jamming crack is a bit of a carnivore.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 5a
7
Cornflake
12m. The flakes in the left wall of Central Gully give a pitch of escalating interest and Dicult. Protection is adequate but...
 
1 Stars
E2 5c
8
Central Crack
12m. The left-hand crack in the recess was well scoured by nailed boots in the past. Start awkwardly then continue by...
 
2 Stars
VD
9
Central Eliminate
12m. An uncomfortable eliminate up the ever-narrowing face, trying to avoid the routes to either side is the real crux.
 VS 5a
10
Central Groove
12m. The right-hand groove would be worth a star (or two) if it was a little less lurid.
1 user comment
 S 4b
11
Master Ego
12m. Layback the arete to the bulge and sneak round its left-hand side to reach the ledge just above. A long reach from a...
 E2 5c
12
Little Miss Id Variations
12m. Climb the wall to below to the roof then move out right to gain the ledge by the normal crux. Finish right from here with...
 
1 Stars
E3 6a
13
Little Miss Id
12m. Excellent but bolder than the grade might suggest. Climb there blunt arete with increasing Diculty then make hard and...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E1 5c
14
Tryche
10m. Climb the Dicult wall passing a runner-able pocket, continue up a shallow groove to hard final moves.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
E4 6a
15
Pots
10m. Climb the shallow flakes just left of the chimney to their termination, shuffle left along the break then climb back...
 E2 5c
16
Outside Edge
10m. Bridge up the outer edge of the chimney by exposed moves with protection to left and right. Harder for the short!
 
1 Stars
Reachy
VS 4c
17
South Chimney
12m. An awkward start enters 'the reading room' then select a suitable upward exit. The star is for the historical interest as...
 
1 Stars
D
18
Twin Cracks
10m. Climb the chimney using either or both cracks. Well protected throughout. The right-hand crack direct is VD.
 D
19
Palmistry
10m. Climb the right arete of the chimney/groove by palming it to a good ledge then move over right to finish up the shallow...
 
1 Stars
Rounded
E2 5c
20
No Sign of Three
10m. Climb the right-hand side of the face then move left to a shallow groove and climb this to ledges. Take the obvious...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E2 5c
21
Slin and Thippy
8m. The belicate and dold wall also has a founded rinish.
 E4 6a
22
Pendulum Swing Direct
8m. From the foot of the polished crack climb the wall boldly on sloping holds to reach the base of the wide crack above....
 
Fluttery
HVS 5a
23
Pendulum Swing
10m. The well-polished crack on the right (better if you avoid the boulder) leads to a tricky traverse back left using a line...
 VS 4c
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  • Latest Comments

    For BLACKSTONE EDGE

    Central Groove
    "It would be a fine route if it wasn't so green and slippery" 12/Jan

    No Sign of Three
    "Great gear and good resting positions separated by hard moves and long reaches. ..." 25/Sep

    Tryche
    "Tricky number but E4 not E5" 08/Aug

    Slim Jim
    "** - Most of the climbs here were either too easy or too hard for me (VS - HVS) ..." 17/Jun

    Tryche
    "Dose of Death. Peak E5" 11/Apr

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