Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
Uphill
20 minsWindy
This compact buttress is divided by a series of wide chimneys up which many of the easier and more traditional lines go with Central Crack being the pick. The other quality routes tend to be on the faces with Little Miss Id and her Variations probably being the best.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Slim Jim 8m. The hanging crack that faces the top of the roman road. 1 user comment | VS 5a | |
2 |
Manibus et Pedibusque 12m. A fierce and scary traverse of the left wall of the chimney. | 1 Stars Fluttery | E4 6a |
3 |
Nor Nor' Chimney 12m. Enter the cave recess then do battle with the chimney rising from its left-hand corner. | VD | |
4 |
North Cave 12m. The easier exit from the care is rightwards up another chimney. The Direct Start is a grovelly 4c. | M | |
5 |
Belly on a Plate 12m. Delightful! Climb the groove then flop out left onto the ledge. Finish up the well-positioned right arete of the chimney. | VS 4c | |
6 |
The Mangler 12m. The leaning jamming crack is a bit of a carnivore. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Pumpy | VS 5a |
7 |
Cornflake 12m. The flakes in the left wall of Central Gully give a pitch of escalating interest and Dicult. Protection is adequate but... | 1 Stars | E2 5c |
8 |
Central Crack 12m. The left-hand crack in the recess was well scoured by nailed boots in the past. Start awkwardly then continue by... | 2 Stars | VD |
9 |
Central Eliminate 12m. An uncomfortable eliminate up the ever-narrowing face, trying to avoid the routes to either side is the real crux. | VS 5a | |
10 |
Central Groove 12m. The right-hand groove would be worth a star (or two) if it was a little less lurid. 1 user comment | S 4b | |
11 |
Master Ego 12m. Layback the arete to the bulge and sneak round its left-hand side to reach the ledge just above. A long reach from a... | E2 5c | |
12 |
Little Miss Id Variations 12m. Climb the wall to below to the roof then move out right to gain the ledge by the normal crux. Finish right from here with... | 1 Stars | E3 6a |
13 |
Little Miss Id 12m. Excellent but bolder than the grade might suggest. Climb there blunt arete with increasing Diculty then make hard and... 1 user comment | 2 Stars | E1 5c |
14 |
Tryche 10m. Climb the Dicult wall passing a runner-able pocket, continue up a shallow groove to hard final moves. 2 user comments | 1 Stars | E4 6a |
15 |
Pots 10m. Climb the shallow flakes just left of the chimney to their termination, shuffle left along the break then climb back... | E2 5c | |
16 |
Outside Edge 10m. Bridge up the outer edge of the chimney by exposed moves with protection to left and right. Harder for the short! | 1 Stars Reachy | VS 4c |
17 |
South Chimney 12m. An awkward start enters 'the reading room' then select a suitable upward exit. The star is for the historical interest as... | 1 Stars | D |
18 |
Twin Cracks 10m. Climb the chimney using either or both cracks. Well protected throughout. The right-hand crack direct is VD. | D | |
19 |
Palmistry 10m. Climb the right arete of the chimney/groove by palming it to a good ledge then move over right to finish up the shallow... | 1 Stars Rounded | E2 5c |
20 |
No Sign of Three 10m. Climb the right-hand side of the face then move left to a shallow groove and climb this to ledges. Take the obvious... 1 user comment | 1 Stars | E2 5c |
21 |
Slin and Thippy 8m. The belicate and dold wall also has a founded rinish. | E4 6a | |
22 |
Pendulum Swing Direct 8m. From the foot of the polished crack climb the wall boldly on sloping holds to reach the base of the wide crack above.... | Fluttery | HVS 5a |
23 |
Pendulum Swing 10m. The well-polished crack on the right (better if you avoid the boulder) leads to a tricky traverse back left using a line... | VS 4c | |