The Quarry

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
20 mins
Uphill

On the left is a pair of contrasting faces, one slabby and pleasant and the other steep and Ďard, no guesses as to which one is the most popular! Both get the afternoon sun and dry rapidly. Further right is a sheltered bay with an interesting set of varied routes which are inclined to green after wet weather.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Cornette
10m. The awkward block groove leads to the juggy arete. Escape off left. A safe first lead.
 
1 Stars
D
2
Slab Crossing
20m. Climb the groove then hand-traverse the break rightwards until a ledge can be gained by a mantel. Continue into and up the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
VS 4b
3
Deadline
10m. A direct line up the face 1m right of the groove.
 
Technical
VS 5a
4
Route 1
10m. Balance up and right to good holds then runners in the break. Finish up the left-hand groove above to a rounded mantel - a...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
HS 4c
5
King B
10m. Make a bold start up the centre of the slab to the break. Then climb the shallow groove above avoiding Route 1.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E1 5c
6
Route 2
10m. Climb the shallow groove (Rock 1 on the right) then balance left and right to the break and more wires. Finish up the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
HVS 5a
7
Slabmaster
10m. Climb the groove to ledge then the slotted wall above until it becomes necessary to move left and join Route 2.
 VS 4c
8
Route Right
10m. Trend right up ledges until forced off the slab. Finish up the easy chimney above with a sense of anticlimax.
 HS 4b
9
Daytona Wall
10m. A bold outing that weaves across the impressive buttress. Rumoured to be unprotected? Start under the arete and climb up...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6a
10
Daytona Wall Direct
10m. Climb a faint crack up the lower wall to joint the regular route at the bulge. Pull up to the pocket and finish direct.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6b
11
Boldness Through Ignorance
10m. From the Direct sketch up and right (peg) to some small finger pockets and a scary finish.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
E7 6c
12
Overlapper
10m. Climb the flaky groove to the bulge the pull left to gain a good pocket, the continuation crack and a sprint finish.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5b
13
Lapper
10m. Follow the groove throughout then make a pumpy hand-traverse out right to finish.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
14
Dessers
10m. The thin crack has an awkward moves to overcome the initial crucial section.
 VS 4c
15
Sard
8m. After a tricky start head up the fingery wall, or access it from the next route at a more amenable VS 4c.
 
Crimpy
HVS 5a
16
Seazy
8m. The thin crack with a triangular niche at 3m. Passing this is the crux though it is steep above.
 HS 4c
17
Groovin'
8m. From a block climb the shallow groove and escape left.
 HS 4b
18
The Romeo Error
10m. Sketch up the slab to a sloping mantel, hop onto it precariously then sneak off left to avoid the grass cornice. A sneaky...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 6a
19
Screwy
10m. More thin climbing up the face just right of the unclippable in-situ gear (they look like nails to me). An ancient peg...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E2 5c
20
Groundhog
10m. The face is climbed on small holds to a grubby exit. A side-runner drops the grade a notch. Just keep trying until you get...
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
E1 5b
21
Sandy Crack
10m. The crack just left of the chimney/corner is usually clean. No bridging allowed at this grade.
 VS 5a
22
Curving Chimney
8m. The rift is 'orrible and desperate!
 D
23
Jumping Jive
8m. Leap for the ledge then finish leftwards.
 
Reachy
E1 5b
24
Pavanne
8m. Crawl on to the ledge then trend right to the top.
 HVS 5a
25
Overhanging Crack
8m. The excellent but short hand-crack has a tricky exit.
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
26
Z Crack
10m. A little classic and well protected throughout. Finish direct with a long reach or follow the logical line leftwards at...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VS 5a
27
The Don
10m. The blank and bold wall right of Z Crack.
 
Fluttery
E2 6a
28
Los Endos
8m. A problem start up the arete leads to easier ground.
 
Technical
HVS 5a
29
Scree? Pain!
6m. Nasty. Climb the wall using a slot with a scary finish.
 
Fluttery
E3 6a
30
Flupper
6m. Climb the scooped wall until forced right to easier ground.
 VS 5a
31
Flipper
6m. Polished holds just right of the arete are pleasant.
 S 4b
32
Flopper
6m. Use an undercut to reach rounded holds and a quick pull.
 VS 4c
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  • Latest Comments

    For COW'S MOUTH QUARRY

    Boldness Through Ignorance
    "Craig, the route I climbed is discussed here: ukbouldering.com/board/index.ph..." 21/Oct

    Boldness Through Ignorance
    "Where exactly does Visions from the dark side climb? How was it done on the firs..." 30/May

    Daytona Wall
    "tried the on sight solo but fell off crux due to real dirty holds (was like that..." 12/May

    Boldness Through Ignorance
    "My route up the pockets and arete to the left doesnt seem to be in your database..." 26/Oct

    Daytona Wall
    "I dont think we had friends that small in 1977 did we Con? But I'd practised a n..." 09/Mar

    Route 1
    "Not sure this is 4c. Climbed it in the wet. Was only able to get a not very good..." 14/May

    Z Crack
    "geting of the ground proved the hardest for me, once higher in the crack it eas..." 09/Aug

    Z Crack
    "compared to other VS routes anywhere, it's harder, especially the finish leftwar..." 26/May

    Overlapper
    "Thirded! Basher told me once that 3 Little Piggies was the hardest problem he..." 20/Feb

    Z Crack
    "Balls, its just a good VS,4c" 17/Feb

    Boldness Through Ignorance
    "Led ethically without the peg and now warrants E8 6c. Solo. very good route." 16/Dec

    Daytona Wall Direct
    "Now the proud owner of a number of kittens." 18/Sep

    Slab Crossing
    "really good, well protected (friends in break))traverse" 27/Jun

    Daytona Wall Direct
    "Dont say that, Phil will have kittens." 09/Jun

    Overlapper
    "You missed out Three Little Piggies on the tier below, which is a hilarious E3. ..." 11/Apr

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