The Quarry

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  None >

Trad
Lots of sun!
20 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

The central section of the quarry is dominated by the prominent arete, which is home to the best route. Much of the rock is excellent, though the ever-encroaching vegetation is slowly claiming it back.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Levi
18m. Climb the slab to its left arete then step back into the centre and finish with increasing apprehension.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E1 5b
2
Leprechaun
18m. The groove reached from the left is quite worthwhile but has a crusty finish. Sadly it is rather overgrown at present.
 VS 4c
3
Scimitar
20m. Cut up to the obviously-named thin curving crack and follow it into and up the groove at its end.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS 5b
4
Poteen
20m. Stagger up the long right-facing corner/groove. It is worthwhile and proves to be hard work at the overhang.
 
2 Stars
HVS 5b
5
Sinn Fein
22m. Serious and scary. Climb the rib on the left and then the crack on the right to a flaky overlap. Pull over this and step...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5c
6
The Old Triangle
24m. Sustained climbing up the long deep groove leads to a big triangular roof. The most popular exit is to teeter right (4c)...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
7
Nil Carborundum Illigitimum
22m. The smooth face has good moves but is serious and devious. There maybe one peg runner in place.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5c
8
The Arete
22m. The best route here and worth calling in for. Delicate, sustained and elegant moves, throughout with enough gear to allow...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
E2 5c
9
O'Gradey's Incurable Ich
22m. Climb Little Spillikin to the traverse then, with gear on the right (wires and RPs) climb the centre of the wall up and...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E5 6c
10
The Little Spillikin
22m. Climb thin cracks right of the grassy groove then move out right and climb the groove to a rather unstable exit.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3 6a
11
Kershaw's Krackers
22m. The finger-knackering cracks is climbed in three stages with the initial section being the crux. One of the purest...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
HVS 5c
12
Stiff Little Fingers
22m. The elegant arete is escapable but worth sticking with. Runners can be placed to the left without too much difficulty.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E1 5b
13
Cornflake
22m. The long left-hand flake gives great laybacking to its top from where easy (vegetated!) ground leads to the cliff top.
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
14
Soapflake
22m. The right-hand flake is also well worth doing if you enjoy the style of climbing. Again the finish is a bit of a spoiler.
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
15
Knobblekerry Corner
22m. The long groove in the angle of the bay is strenuous and sustained, even if you use the iron bar to start. Climb the wide...
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
16
Nosey Parker
22m. Climb the tough crack in the side wall (well protected but exhausting) then swing left to a rest in the main groove. Pull...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E4 6a
17
Black Michael
22m. The chimney-crack gives a good struggle up to ledges on the arete. Climb left then right to vegetated ledges then escape...
 VS 4c
18
Good Things Come to Those Who Wait
26m. Follows the edge of the steep tower left of Guns and Drums. Start to the left of a green wall and climb up and right on...
 
1 Stars
E3 5c
19
Guns and Drums
26m. Climb a shallow groove until flakes on the right can be reached, follow these to the break. Climb the superb blank groove...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E4 6a
20
Wall and Groove
26m. An early attempt on this part of the face, and a good line though suffering from grass-itis. Climb the steep flake/crack...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
21
The Peace Process
26m. Layback up the obvious fin right of Guns and Drums to the overhang. Slap up for a ledge and peg runner. Continue with...
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
E5 6b
22
Fenian Wall
12m. The steep and strenuous crack leads via pushy climbing to the break. The wall above is also hard but turns rapidly to easy...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E4 6a
23
Republic Groove
12m. Climb the acute overhanging groove that bounds the wall on the right until forced out right. A short corner then...
 HVS 5a
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For TINTWISTLE KNARR

    Kershaw's Krackers
    "On par with Checkers Crack... with a worse top out." 13/Aug

    Cornflake
    "Was at tintwhistle 10/6/07, a chunk has fallen off Soapflake and looks like it h..." 11/Jun

    Cornflake
    "Now clean and unvegetated...thanks to whoever cleaned the route it's a classic o..." 04/Jul

    O'Gradey's Incurable Ich
    "Yes, James it was definitely there when I climbed it. Look a bit harder next tim..." 23/Jun

    The Arete
    "Well worth the walk -Brilliant!" 13/Jun

    Wall and Groove
    "I don't agree with the comments abot the final groove - it needs a clean but it ..." 28/May

    Levi
    "Probably needs cleaning by abseil - very grassy in middle, sloping gritty holds ..." 25/May

    Wall and Groove
    "Climbed this one about three years ago and found the lower section relatively st..." 20/May

    Cornflake
    "A well hidden small nut runner gives the only gear on the vegetated upper sectio..." 10/Aug

    O'Gradey's Incurable Ich
    "I abbed down this line a while ago...there's nothing there! are you sure about t..." 02/Apr

    The Arete
    "A beautiful route - delightfully technical and immediately appealing. Fair at th..." 18/Dec

    Wall and Groove
    "This route is in desperate need of a clean. The final groove, far from being pl..." 19/Aug

    Search for comments