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Lots of sun!
Uphill
20 minsThe central section of the quarry is dominated by the prominent arete, which is home to the best route. Much of the rock is excellent, though the ever-encroaching vegetation is slowly claiming it back.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Levi 18m. Climb the slab to its left arete then step back into the centre and finish with increasing apprehension. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Fluttery | E1 5b |
2 |
Leprechaun 18m. The groove reached from the left is quite worthwhile but has a crusty finish. Sadly it is rather overgrown at present. | VS 4c | |
3 |
Scimitar 20m. Cut up to the obviously-named thin curving crack and follow it into and up the groove at its end. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | HVS 5b |
4 |
Poteen 20m. Stagger up the long right-facing corner/groove. It is worthwhile and proves to be hard work at the overhang. | 2 Stars | HVS 5b |
5 |
Sinn Fein 22m. Serious and scary. Climb the rib on the left and then the crack on the right to a flaky overlap. Pull over this and step... | 2 Stars Fluttery | E3 5c |
6 |
The Old Triangle 24m. Sustained climbing up the long deep groove leads to a big triangular roof. The most popular exit is to teeter right (4c)... | 2 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5a |
7 |
Nil Carborundum Illigitimum 22m. The smooth face has good moves but is serious and devious. There maybe one peg runner in place. | 1 Stars Fluttery | E3 5c |
8 |
The Arete 22m. The best route here and worth calling in for. Delicate, sustained and elegant moves, throughout with enough gear to allow... 3 user comments | 3 Stars | E2 5c |
9 |
O'Gradey's Incurable Ich 22m. Climb Little Spillikin to the traverse then, with gear on the right (wires and RPs) climb the centre of the wall up and... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | E5 6c |
10 |
The Little Spillikin 22m. Climb thin cracks right of the grassy groove then move out right and climb the groove to a rather unstable exit. | 1 Stars Technical | E3 6a |
11 |
Kershaw's Krackers 22m. The finger-knackering cracks is climbed in three stages with the initial section being the crux. One of the purest... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | HVS 5c |
12 |
Stiff Little Fingers 22m. The elegant arete is escapable but worth sticking with. Runners can be placed to the left without too much difficulty. | 1 Stars Fluttery | E1 5b |
13 |
Cornflake 22m. The long left-hand flake gives great laybacking to its top from where easy (vegetated!) ground leads to the cliff top. 6 user comments | 2 Stars | VS 4c |
14 |
Soapflake 22m. The right-hand flake is also well worth doing if you enjoy the style of climbing. Again the finish is a bit of a spoiler. | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
15 |
Knobblekerry Corner 22m. The long groove in the angle of the bay is strenuous and sustained, even if you use the iron bar to start. Climb the wide... | 1 Stars | VS 4c |
16 |
Nosey Parker 22m. Climb the tough crack in the side wall (well protected but exhausting) then swing left to a rest in the main groove. Pull... | 2 Stars Pumpy | E4 6a |
17 |
Black Michael 22m. The chimney-crack gives a good struggle up to ledges on the arete. Climb left then right to vegetated ledges then escape... | VS 4c | |
18 |
Good Things Come to Those Who Wait 26m. Follows the edge of the steep tower left of Guns and Drums. Start to the left of a green wall and climb up and right on... | 1 Stars | E3 5c |
19 |
Guns and Drums 26m. Climb a shallow groove until flakes on the right can be reached, follow these to the break. Climb the superb blank groove... | 2 Stars Technical | E4 6a |
20 |
Wall and Groove 26m. An early attempt on this part of the face, and a good line though suffering from grass-itis. Climb the steep flake/crack... 3 user comments | 1 Stars | HVS 5a |
21 |
The Peace Process 26m. Layback up the obvious fin right of Guns and Drums to the overhang. Slap up for a ledge and peg runner. Continue with... | 1 Stars Crimpy Fluttery | E5 6b |
22 |
Fenian Wall 12m. The steep and strenuous crack leads via pushy climbing to the break. The wall above is also hard but turns rapidly to easy... | 1 Stars Pumpy | E4 6a |
23 |
Republic Groove 12m. Climb the acute overhanging groove that bounds the wall on the right until forced out right. A short corner then... | HVS 5a | |