Long Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Cave Buttress  |  Hoop-La Buttress Area >

Boulder
Afternoon sun
6 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

A short but wide buttress spit centrally by an awkward chimney which breaks an almost continuous line of overhangs and bulges which provide the entertainment.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Arete Route
6m. The left arete of the buttress is reached via a taxing bulge.
 
Strong
V1 5b
2
Jimmy's Crack
6m. The hanging crack above the roof is approached across the roof using the expando-flakes with trepidation.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Fluttery
V2 5c
3
Direct Route
6m. The juggy right-hand side of the roof is fun.
 
1 Stars
Strong
V1 5b
4
Heather Wall Direct
6m. Climb past the right-hand edge of the roof where it fades.
 V0 4c
5
Donkey Route Direct
6m. Clip clop through the centre of the bulges.
 V1 5b
6
Heather Variant
6m. The right-hand side of the bulges.
 V0- 4b
7
Heather Wall
6m. Climb out along a hanging slab to a tricky and exposed exit.
 
Fluttery
V0- 4b
8
Chimney Route
6m. The grubby rift that splits the buttress.
 VD
9
Tank Top
6m. The right-hand arete of the chimney on its left-hand side.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
V3 6A
10
Sweater
6m. Tackle the arete on its right-hand side via the overhang and the best of the pockets above.
 
1 Stars
V1 5b
11
Pullover
6m. The centre of the overhangs is beefy, the wall above much more delicate. Trend left to finish.
 
3 Stars
Strong
V1 5b
12
Jumper
6m. The right-hand side of the roof is a bit of an eliminate though the moves are good.
 
1 Stars
V2 5c
13
Thin Crack Superdirect
6m. An eliminate which gains the thin crack directly and avoids any contamination with the ledge on the right.
 V2 5c
14
Thin Crack
6m. Using the projecting ledge on the right to access the thin crack is easier and a lot more sensible!
 
1 Stars
V0- 4b
15
Left-hand Crack
6m.The short left-hand crack is approached over a bulge and gives a couple of jamming moves.
 
1 Stars
VD
16
Right-hand Crack
6m. The slightly thinner right-hand fissure.
 
1 Stars
VD
17
Flake Route
6m. Pull through the bulges and climb the crack to a tricky exit.
 
1 Stars
VD
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For FRODSHAM

    Tradesman's Entrance
    "This description is misleading. 'Tradesman's Entrance' slaps out right to sloper..." 23/Jun

    Arete Route
    "Pity about the boring name - Ush Arete would be much better." 08/Apr

    Arete Route
    "Holds to R and, at top, the L used at grade given" 05/Jul

    The Hoop-La
    "Excellent moves; can be climbed on brilliant jambs or the wall right of crack. S..." 21/Aug

    Multi-Screen
    "these V grades are supposed to represent top-rope grades, or at least that's how..." 29/Dec

    Multi-Screen
    "Have the editors solo'd the 'boulder problems' on Great Wall and the Cinema Scre..." 20/Jul

    Multi-Screen
    "Very scary for a boulder problem. Hard pulls near the top (I knackered my finge..." 19/Jul

    The Hoop-La
    "entertaining climbing on good holds." 21/Jun

    Colton's Crack
    "One tough move, nice problem though!" 18/Oct

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