Banana Finger and Overhang Butt

Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level
3 mins

A legendary buttress of tiered overhangs which is home to the classic Banana Finger boulder problem and all its derivatives. Ropes are rarely used here. Next top it is a popular buttress with the top-rope brigade, although Wednesday Climb doesn't appear to interest them as much as the other routes here. Guidebook page 198.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Monkey Corner
8m. The steep and juggy groove on the left leads steeply to a swing right at the bulge to gain easier ground.
10 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
HVD
2
Banana Finger
8m. A classic boulder problem. From the centre of the buttress piano-play left and cross the overlaps (knees can help) to easy...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
V3 6a
3
Banana Finger Direct
A knee-bar is of help so avoid wearing shorts, and also - clean those boots!
 
Crimpy
V4 6b
4
Monkey Wall
8m. The face, trending left via a series of ledges. About as mild as they come, much used in descent and a good beginner's...
4 user comments
 M
5
Monk On
8m. Pull over the roof left of the arete. Escaping right is cheating!
3 user comments
 HVS 5b
6
Ad Infinitum
14m. A pleasant left-to-right girdle following the obvious line above the roofs and finishing up the far arete.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
S 4a
7
Wednesday Climb
8m. The roof crack via a jam and jugs is easiest if you stay out from the crack as much as possible. A knee-bar might help.
9 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
HVS 5b
8
Life in a Radioactive Dustbin
The desperate roof is a highball problem.
3 user comments
 
Technical
V5 6b
9
The Disposable Bubble
8m. The right-hand side of the roof is a hard problem.
 
Technical
E4 6b
10
Overhanging Buttress Direct
10m. Use shiny holds to climb to the edge of the overhang, step right to pass this and finish more easily up the fine slab.
13 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4a
11
Overhanging Buttress Arete
8m. The juggy arete (awkward start) is often full of top-ropers.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
M
12
Burgess Buttress
6m. Across the gully is another popular beginnerís climb.
3 user comments
 M
13
Burgess Street
6m. The groove just to the right is another easy one.
 M
  • Latest Comments

    For BURBAGE NORTH

    Side Face
    "Balancy moves, easier for the tall. It's all in the initial move for the break.T..." 11/Jun

    Remergence
    "Sandbag or not, it is still a route and the crux is the desperate long reach at ..." 02/Jun

    Ash Tree Variations
    "The correct name of this route is Ash Tree Variation, not 'Variations'" 22/Apr

    The Chant Direct Finish
    "Solid 6a using small crimps if you can't reach from the good footholds or span f..." 29/Nov

    Bilberry Cake
    "Don't lead harder than VS but didn't find this too difficult, certainly easier c..." 19/Nov

    Hollyash Crack
    "I don't see how you protect this without giant cams. It goes as a good layback ..." 30/Jul

    Bilberry Cake
    "Agree with above, no way HVS - More like HS 4c. Not a bad little one move route ..." 24/May

    Knight's Move
    "The moves weren't too difficult but I wasn't totally happy with the gear in the ..." 21/Nov

    Now or Never
    "Good climbing and well protected, take a friend 3.5 to protect the crucial barn ..." 27/Oct

    Approach
    "Five years later it still feels E2." 23/Jun

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