Lady Jane Wall

Adjacent Areas
< None  |  The Web Area >

Boulder
Early morning sun
Level
5 mins
Sheltered

The long wall to the left of the entrance has many good routes though a high percentage are hard. The holds on the blanker sections are often so small that they are often invisible unless chalked by previous ascents. There are easier offerings towards either end of the wall. Running along the top of the wall are a series of nine bee-hive-shaped niches that aid route identification.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Too Bold for Steve Boot
A typically deceptive Pex route. Harder than it looks.
1 user comment
 V1 5b
2
Set Square
The direct start is V2 (5c).
1 user comment
 VS 4c
3
Tequila Sunrise
Head straight through the right-hand triangular slot.
 
1 Stars
V2 5c
4
Harvey Wallbanger
The wall 1m right on small holds. Requires an 'udge.'
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
V3 5c
5
Black Russian
A direct line 1m right again heading straight to the step at the top of the cliff.
2 user comments
 V4 6a
6
Lew's Leap
Climb straight to the first of the niches. A short hop for its base is normal. The left-hand direct (?) start is V2 (5c)....
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
V1 5b
7
Finger-Ripper
An eliminate just right of the first niche. Gnarly in the extreme.
2 user comments
 V6 6b
8
Bermuda Triangle
A brilliant problem past the second niche. A hard, reachy start leads to a rest and then another crux. The top out is steady.
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
V4 6a
9
Cosine Alternative
A forgotten counter line to Bermuda Triangle. Can be used to gain the upper section of Bermuda Triangle for shorties.
3 user comments
 V4 6b
10
Breakaway
Straight up the wall on a series of tiny, tiny holds. Utterly desperate with steel tendons the minimum requirement.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Crimpy
V8 6c
11
Catalepsy
Reach the third niche by a sustained series of pulls. Very reachy and balancy with a high crux.
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
Crimpy
Fluttery
V7 6c
12
Monoblock
Said to be the hardest route in the World, with holds little bigger than decent sized atoms - and spaced ones at that!.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
V10 7a
13
Bernie
The easiest line on this section of wall! Start right of old bolts.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
V6 6b
14
Termination
Make a desperate move to reach the large pocket.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Crimpy
V7 6c
15
Philarmonic
Tall climbers can by-pass the crux.
1 user comment
 
Reachy
Technical
Crimpy
V4 6b
16
Algripper
The wall is climbed via two good pockets, linking then (a rock-over) proves to be the crux which is higher than you want it.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
V2 5c
17
Jurassic Pork
Blank wall with a hard move using a pebble.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Crimpy
V6 6b
18
Crossbow
Move left into the niche from Lady Jane.
1 user comment
 E1 5c
19
Lady Jane
Climb the right-trending ramp swing right and follow the pockets to the top passing the left-hand of a pair niches. Direct...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
E1 5c
20
Sidestep
Climb straight up the the final section of Lady Jane.
 
1 Stars
E1 5c
21
Twin Scoops Direct
Climb straight up the wall to the right-hand niche by a balancy mantelshelf and a stretch.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
E1 6a
22
Twin Scoops
At last an easier offering. Climb the ledgy wall then follow the holds leftwards past Twin Scoops Direct to finish up Lady...
 
2 Stars
HVS 4c
23
Twin Scoops Right-hand
Direct above the start of Twin Scoops.
 E2 5c
24
Creeping Jesus
Climb Twin Scoops to the last descent ledge then step right to a good finger-jam (wire) and a sprint finish. Direct start is V2...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
E1 5b
25
Kitt's Wall
Link the three pockets by hard moves. V4.
 
2 Stars
Technical
E5 6b
26
The Black Pimp from Marseilles
The wall to the left of the low relief blunt rib which is the main feature of this part of the face. V6.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E6 6b
27
Unicorn
Climb straight up the blunt rib to a recess just below the cliff top, exit left to avoid the prickles.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E3 5b
28
Cave Route Right-hand
An eliminate via the square pocket. V6.
 
Technical
E6 6b
29
Ladytron
The bold wall mid-way between the two blunt ribs.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4 5c
30
Cardiac Arete
Boulder up to the break then from the jug make crucial moves to marginally easier ground. V5.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E4 6b
31
Hart's Arete
The bold, blunt arete feels big for its size and is suffering from polish. The grade given is for a lead since there is gear.
9 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Fluttery
E4 6b
32
Zigger Zagger
The stretchy wall has a gripping exit.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E2 5b
33
Big Greenie

1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E3 5c
34
The Hulk
Left of the crack. You won't like it when you are angry!
 E2 5c
35
Hart's Arete Traverse
Start at the crack (Crack and Up) and traverse left to Unicorn. The higher break is V3 and the ultra-low level is V9.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
V5 6a
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For PEX HILL

    Catalepsy
    "tried this last yr and couldn't quite manage it. Since then a some vigorous 'cle..." 25/Jun

    Harvey Wallbanger
    "Definitely called Harvey Warbanger in the old Al Rouse guide (Pex Hill section b..." 30/Oct

    Hart's Arete
    "I think the start of Hart's is one problem that demonstrates the differences in ..." 26/Oct

    Hart's Arete
    "E3 6b *** (OS Lead, no mats). A very fine route which is well worth leading. The..." 02/May

    Staminade
    "The greatest trick the devil ever pulled was convincing the world he did not exi..." 15/Apr

    Staminade
    "I stand corrected, oh great one. So you still exist and haven't turned into an u..." 30/Jan

    Staminade
    "Having read the comment on Staminade not being led...nope it was lead regularly ..." 21/Jan

    Dateline
    "Did this and cobweb crack. This is much harder particularly as it was very damp..." 28/May

    Hart's Arete
    "Nailed the start today. Saw a guy working it in the wrong way (starting to the l..." 12/May

    Too Bold for Steve Boot
    "benchmark pex hil 5b this. don't cheat..." 10/May

    Straight Crack
    "I would push the grade up just because the top outs so crap. Dont be tempted to ..." 01/May

    Breakaway
    "Well done whoever did the wire brushing, you have brought it down to your level...." 11/Apr

    Catalepsy
    "I find the crux is the move after, but that's because I'm a short ar*e" 05/Apr

    Black Russian
    "how do you do it. I think Im on the right route but its ver close to wallbanger...." 05/Apr

    Bermuda Triangle
    "The starts hard when the foot ripples are wet and slimy! Feels on the tougher si..." 07/Feb

    Padarn Dance
    "Damn. They used to do that stuff in the Black Dog as well..." 07/Feb

    Padarn Dance
    "No Andi. The Padarn. All the clues were there for the taking." 07/Feb

    Padarn Dance
    "this wouldn't be Ian Lonsdale's pub the Black Dog would it?" 06/Feb

    Cosine Alternative
    "I agree it's not 6b, prob hard 6a, but it doesn't ease of as much as Bermuda" 31/Jan

    Ladytron
    "named after a roxy music track, about 1973 ish." 21/Jan

    Memorial Wall
    "This deserves at least a "1"" 17/Nov

    Cobweb Crack
    "Each wall immediately to the side of the crack (without using it!) goes at a re..." 30/Sep

    Warlock
    "Fun move high up where you sort of 1 armed mantle and layoff to gain a good jug ..." 01/Sep

    Search for comments