Adjacent Areas
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Boulder
Early morning sun
Level
5 minsThe long wall to the left of the entrance has many good routes though a high percentage are hard. The holds on the blanker sections are often so small that they are often invisible unless chalked by previous ascents. There are easier offerings towards either end of the wall. Running along the top of the wall are a series of nine bee-hive-shaped niches that aid route identification.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Too Bold for Steve Boot A typically deceptive Pex route. Harder than it looks. 1 user comment | V1 5b | |
2 |
Set Square The direct start is V2 (5c). 1 user comment | VS 4c | |
3 |
Tequila Sunrise Head straight through the right-hand triangular slot. | 1 Stars | V2 5c |
4 |
Harvey Wallbanger The wall 1m right on small holds. Requires an 'udge.' 3 user comments | 1 Stars | V3 5c |
5 |
Black Russian A direct line 1m right again heading straight to the step at the top of the cliff. 2 user comments | V4 6a | |
6 |
Lew's Leap Climb straight to the first of the niches. A short hop for its base is normal. The left-hand direct (?) start is V2 (5c).... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Reachy | V1 5b |
7 |
Finger-Ripper An eliminate just right of the first niche. Gnarly in the extreme. 2 user comments | V6 6b | |
8 |
Bermuda Triangle A brilliant problem past the second niche. A hard, reachy start leads to a rest and then another crux. The top out is steady. 7 user comments | 2 Stars Reachy | V4 6a |
9 |
Cosine Alternative A forgotten counter line to Bermuda Triangle. Can be used to gain the upper section of Bermuda Triangle for shorties. 3 user comments | V4 6b | |
10 |
Breakaway Straight up the wall on a series of tiny, tiny holds. Utterly desperate with steel tendons the minimum requirement. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy Technical Crimpy | V8 6c |
11 |
Catalepsy Reach the third niche by a sustained series of pulls. Very reachy and balancy with a high crux. 4 user comments | 3 Stars Reachy Pumpy Crimpy Fluttery | V7 6c |
12 |
Monoblock Said to be the hardest route in the World, with holds little bigger than decent sized atoms - and spaced ones at that!. 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical Crimpy | V10 7a |
13 |
Bernie The easiest line on this section of wall! Start right of old bolts. 3 user comments | 2 Stars | V6 6b |
14 |
Termination Make a desperate move to reach the large pocket. 1 user comment | Technical Crimpy | V7 6c |
15 |
Philarmonic Tall climbers can by-pass the crux. 1 user comment | Reachy Technical Crimpy | V4 6b |
16 |
Algripper The wall is climbed via two good pockets, linking then (a rock-over) proves to be the crux which is higher than you want it. 4 user comments | 2 Stars Crimpy Fluttery | V2 5c |
17 |
Jurassic Pork Blank wall with a hard move using a pebble. 1 user comment | Technical Crimpy | V6 6b |
18 |
Crossbow Move left into the niche from Lady Jane. 1 user comment | E1 5c | |
19 |
Lady Jane Climb the right-trending ramp swing right and follow the pockets to the top passing the left-hand of a pair niches. Direct... 2 user comments | 2 Stars | E1 5c |
20 |
Sidestep Climb straight up the the final section of Lady Jane. | 1 Stars | E1 5c |
21 |
Twin Scoops Direct Climb straight up the wall to the right-hand niche by a balancy mantelshelf and a stretch. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy | E1 6a |
22 |
Twin Scoops At last an easier offering. Climb the ledgy wall then follow the holds leftwards past Twin Scoops Direct to finish up Lady... | 2 Stars | HVS 4c |
23 |
Twin Scoops Right-hand Direct above the start of Twin Scoops. | E2 5c | |
24 |
Creeping Jesus Climb Twin Scoops to the last descent ledge then step right to a good finger-jam (wire) and a sprint finish. Direct start is V2... 3 user comments | 2 Stars | E1 5b |
25 |
Kitt's Wall Link the three pockets by hard moves. V4. | 2 Stars Technical | E5 6b |
26 |
The Black Pimp from Marseilles The wall to the left of the low relief blunt rib which is the main feature of this part of the face. V6. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | E6 6b |
27 |
Unicorn Climb straight up the blunt rib to a recess just below the cliff top, exit left to avoid the prickles. 2 user comments | 2 Stars Fluttery | E3 5b |
28 |
Cave Route Right-hand An eliminate via the square pocket. V6. | Technical | E6 6b |
29 |
Ladytron The bold wall mid-way between the two blunt ribs. 2 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy Fluttery | E4 5c |
30 |
Cardiac Arete Boulder up to the break then from the jug make crucial moves to marginally easier ground. V5. | 2 Stars Technical Fluttery | E4 6b |
31 |
Hart's Arete The bold, blunt arete feels big for its size and is suffering from polish. The grade given is for a lead since there is gear. 9 user comments | 2 Stars Reachy Technical Fluttery | E4 6b |
32 |
Zigger Zagger The stretchy wall has a gripping exit. 4 user comments | 2 Stars Reachy Fluttery | E2 5b |
33 |
Big Greenie 1 user comment | 1 Stars | E3 5c |
34 |
The Hulk Left of the crack. You won't like it when you are angry! | E2 5c | |
35 |
Hart's Arete Traverse Start at the crack (Crack and Up) and traverse left to Unicorn. The higher break is V3 and the ultra-low level is V9. 1 user comment | 3 Stars Pumpy | V5 6a |