Dateline Wall

Adjacent Areas
< Outlying Areas and The Knife  |  Pisa Wall >

Boulder
No sun
5 mins
Level
Sheltered

The recessed bay to the right of the entry has a whole series of hard and bold face climbs plus the classic crack of Dateline. The climbs are soloed by the talented, though the rest of us are inclined to top-rope them. The bay is home to many of the hardest climbs in the quarry, the amount of chalk on them shows how many good climbers there out there. Despite the grades given here many would get very respectable E-grades if they were established anywhere else.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
One of These Days Direct Start
Bridge the angular corner that bounds the left-hand edge of the back wall. Finish up the parent route.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E3 5c
2
One of These Days
Climb the right wall of the corner starting at a slot and trending left to enter the corner halfway up it.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E3 5c
3
One of These Days Direct Finish
Follow the regular route then continue up the wall above passing a small triangular overhang.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
E4 6a
4
The Famous Alto Sax Break
Climb the smooth wall with great difficulty. Not led.
 
1 Stars
Technical
?? 6c
5
Padarn Dance
Strut your stuff up the wall left of the crack. No touching the crack! A side-runner in Dateline is required at this grade.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
E5 6b
6
Dateline
The once-pegged crack is a classic pumpy pitch. It can be soloed by the talented and led by the merely good.
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E2 5c
7
Sinbad
The technical wall just right of the crack on tiny holds. E5 with an easy-to-place side runner in Dateline. Hard E6 without.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
Rounded
E6 6b
8
Depression
A couple of slopy slots allow the start of a depressingly-difficult sequence up the wall just right.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
9
Exit On Air
Climb the wall to a bubbly break then traverse right, crossing Black Magic, to join Acid Test just in time to tackle its crux.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E7 6b
10
Black Magic
Magic indeed. Climb the fingery and technical wall, easing with height. Sadly the route was chipped by some half-witted...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E5 6b
11
Black Magic Direct
Continue trending slightly right where the regular route starts to follow the better holds out to the left.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E6 6c
12
Acid Test
The right-hand of the popular lines on this section of wall. Trend gradually left with the crux move up and left from a slot...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
Fluttery
E5 6b
13
Parker's Mood
The direct finish to Acid Test.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E6 6b
14
Euphoria
The wall right of Acid Test.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Pumpy
Fluttery
E6 6b
15
Never Mind the Acid
The wall 3m left of the corner. Trend right at the top to a crack.
1 user comment
 
Technical
E4 5c
16
Treadmill
2m left of the corner.
 E3 5c
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  • Latest Comments

    For PEX HILL

    The Abort
    "HVS 5a, like One Step, but with a balancy top-out." 02/Jun

    Catalepsy
    "tried this last yr and couldn't quite manage it. Since then a some vigorous 'cle..." 25/Jun

    Harvey Wallbanger
    "Definitely called Harvey Warbanger in the old Al Rouse guide (Pex Hill section b..." 30/Oct

    Hart's Arete
    "I think the start of Hart's is one problem that demonstrates the differences in ..." 26/Oct

    Hart's Arete
    "E3 6b *** (OS Lead, no mats). A very fine route which is well worth leading. The..." 02/May

    Staminade
    "The greatest trick the devil ever pulled was convincing the world he did not exi..." 15/Apr

    Staminade
    "I stand corrected, oh great one. So you still exist and haven't turned into an u..." 30/Jan

    Staminade
    "Having read the comment on Staminade not being led...nope it was lead regularly ..." 21/Jan

    Dateline
    "Did this and cobweb crack. This is much harder particularly as it was very damp..." 28/May

    Hart's Arete
    "Nailed the start today. Saw a guy working it in the wrong way (starting to the l..." 12/May

    Too Bold for Steve Boot
    "benchmark pex hil 5b this. don't cheat..." 10/May

    Straight Crack
    "I would push the grade up just because the top outs so crap. Dont be tempted to ..." 01/May

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