Adjacent Areas
< Outlying Areas and The Knife | Pisa Wall >
Boulder
No sun
Level
5 minsThe recessed bay to the right of the entry has a whole series of hard and bold face climbs plus the classic crack of Dateline. The climbs are soloed by the talented, though the rest of us are inclined to top-rope them. The bay is home to many of the hardest climbs in the quarry, the amount of chalk on them shows how many good climbers there out there. Despite the grades given here many would get very respectable E-grades if they were established anywhere else.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
One of These Days Direct Start Bridge the angular corner that bounds the left-hand edge of the back wall. Finish up the parent route. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | E3 5c |
2 |
One of These Days Climb the right wall of the corner starting at a slot and trending left to enter the corner halfway up it. 1 user comment | 2 Stars | E3 5c |
3 |
One of These Days Direct Finish Follow the regular route then continue up the wall above passing a small triangular overhang. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical | E4 6a |
4 |
The Famous Alto Sax Break Climb the smooth wall with great difficulty. Not led. | 1 Stars Technical | ?? 6c |
5 |
Padarn Dance Strut your stuff up the wall left of the crack. No touching the crack! A side-runner in Dateline is required at this grade. 4 user comments | 1 Stars | E5 6b |
6 |
Dateline The once-pegged crack is a classic pumpy pitch. It can be soloed by the talented and led by the merely good. 7 user comments | 3 Stars Strong Pumpy | E2 5c |
7 |
Sinbad The technical wall just right of the crack on tiny holds. E5 with an easy-to-place side runner in Dateline. Hard E6 without. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Crimpy Rounded | E6 6b |
8 |
Depression A couple of slopy slots allow the start of a depressingly-difficult sequence up the wall just right. 1 user comment | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy Fluttery | E6 6b |
9 |
Exit On Air Climb the wall to a bubbly break then traverse right, crossing Black Magic, to join Acid Test just in time to tackle its crux. | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy Fluttery | E7 6b |
10 |
Black Magic Magic indeed. Climb the fingery and technical wall, easing with height. Sadly the route was chipped by some half-witted... 5 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Pumpy Fluttery | E5 6b |
11 |
Black Magic Direct Continue trending slightly right where the regular route starts to follow the better holds out to the left. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical Pumpy | E6 6c |
12 |
Acid Test The right-hand of the popular lines on this section of wall. Trend gradually left with the crux move up and left from a slot... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Pumpy Crimpy Fluttery | E5 6b |
13 |
Parker's Mood The direct finish to Acid Test. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Fluttery | E6 6b |
14 |
Euphoria The wall right of Acid Test. 1 user comment | Technical Pumpy Fluttery | E6 6b |
15 |
Never Mind the Acid The wall 3m left of the corner. Trend right at the top to a crack. 1 user comment | Technical | E4 5c |
16 |
Treadmill 2m left of the corner. | E3 5c | |