Remergence Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Early morning sun
5 mins
Level
Windy

An impressive buttress, the classics of Mutiny Crack and Remergence are test-pieces from two generations apart. The lower section of the buttress is very popular with boulderers and with the exception of Mutiny Crack, ropes are rarely used here. There are many more problems and eliminates described in the Peak Bouldering Rockfax.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Grogan
The thin crack is protectable but a surprising struggle. Fat fingers do not help at all.
9 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS 5c
2
Groat
The thin wall just right of the crack sees little attention.
 
Technical
E1 6b
3
Wollock
Trend right up the wall then finish direct. A bit reachy in its central section, to a high crux. Escaping right is only worth...
11 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS 4c
4
Wollock Direct
A long stretch up the wall is interesting.
1 user comment
 HVS 5c
5
Pulcherrime
The left-slanting crack is low in the grade but a bit awkward.
12 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4b
6
Slanting Crack
A short grovel up the wide crack just right.
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
VD
7
Small is Beautiful
The tiny wall to the right is climbed direct.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
f7A
8
Slanting Gully
Polished holds lead to easier climbing above.
1 user comment
 D
9
Chockstone Climb
The deep chockstoned rift to a sloping or squeezy exit.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VD
10
Stomach Traverse
Muscle onto the arete and move up to the roof. Either crawl (historically correct but scary) or hand traverse to Mutiny Crack....
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS 4c
11
Tiptoe
Start as for Stomach Traverse but step down and tiptoe to Mutiny Crack. Continue around the arete and back to base.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
12
Gymnipodies
From the ledge gain the break above then finish with difficulty.
 
Technical
E4 6b
13
The Hanging Rib
Climb the blunt arete using anything. It is slightly harder if you use the lip-pinch instead of the undercut.
 
2 Stars
Technical
f6B
14
Remergence
The centre of the roof is passed with difficulty using chalked slots to gain a flatty above - a great f6B problem. The final...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E4 6b
15
Blind Date
Usually done as a boulder problem over the first roof - f7B+. Continuing is well worth it though for the excellent top roof (6b...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4 7a
16
Mutiny Crack
A mini-classic, and a great little route following the crack cleaving the bulges. It is jug-pulling once the initial awkward...
32 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
HS 4b
17
Meddle
The arete is climbed on its right-hand side then take the short wall. Move left to finish up the perched slab. Low in the...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
18
Detour
Climb the groove to a rapid escape left below the big overhang. A finish up the short hanging crack above is a grade harder.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4a
19
Diversion
The hanging crack reached with difficulty from the groove.
 
Strong
HVS 5a
20
Dead Tree Crack
25m to the right, this is the arduous wide and green leaning crack. Laybacking is easiest.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HS 4b
21
Side Face
The right-hand side face.
1 user comment
 S 4a
  • Latest Comments

    For BURBAGE NORTH

    High Flyer
    "Changed from E2 5b to E2 5b *, 74% of 15 votes for *" 23/Mar

    Submission
    "This only felt about VS 4b - I think the move is reach dependent (I'm 6' 0"..." 05/Nov

    Peter's Progress
    "Climbed direct up the incipient crack above the tree at the end of the traverse...." 01/Jun

    Nicotine Stain
    "Changed from V4 6B 6b * to V4 6B *, no votes" 28/May

    Side Face
    "Balancy moves, easier for the tall. It's all in the initial move for the break.T..." 11/Jun

    Remergence
    "Sandbag or not, it is still a route and the crux is the desperate long reach at ..." 02/Jun

    Ash Tree Variations
    "The correct name of this route is Ash Tree Variation, not 'Variations'" 22/Apr

    The Chant Direct Finish
    "Solid 6a using small crimps if you can't reach from the good footholds or span f..." 29/Nov

    Bilberry Cake
    "Don't lead harder than VS but didn't find this too difficult, certainly easier c..." 19/Nov

    Hollyash Crack
    "I don't see how you protect this without giant cams. It goes as a good layback ..." 30/Jul

    Bilberry Cake
    "Agree with above, no way HVS - More like HS 4c. Not a bad little one move route ..." 24/May

    Knight's Move
    "The moves weren't too difficult but I wasn't totally happy with the gear in the ..." 21/Nov

    Now or Never
    "Good climbing and well protected, take a friend 3.5 to protect the crucial barn ..." 27/Oct

    Approach
    "Five years later it still feels E2." 23/Jun

    Greeny Crack
    "Top route, got the heart going without desperation. Ankle/knee jam in the crack ..." 04/May

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