Great End (Sprinkling Tarn)

Adjacent Areas
< Gillercombe  |  Little Stanger Gill >

Winter
Early morning sun
60 mins
Uphill

GR 228086 670m. NE Facing. When it's in condition this is unquestionably the most popular crag in the Lake District. In a good season the main gully lines can be in condition for several weeks at a time. Altitude and aspect combine to make the more open gully line of Window Gully, a contender for the Lakes most reliable ice route. It can give an exiting outing early in the season. A number of good mixed routes have been added, offering a bit of variety on those busy days. The Buttresses between South East Gully and Window Gully can be climbed almost anywhere at grades between II and III if you fancy more of an adventure. Approach The shortest walk in is from Seathwaite in Borrowdale this takes about an hour, following Grains Gill which can offer the odd little ice pitch to get you warmed up. It is also possible to approach from Wasdale head via Styhead, and from Langdale via Rossett Gill both of these taking about an hour and a half. Descent: From the top of the routes trend L,(E), along the top of the crag. Descend a short rocky step to gain snow slopes which bring you back out under the E side of the crag. In poor visibility it is safer to head for Esk Hause and descend the main path back to the top of Grains Gill.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Cust's Gully
310m. May give a couple of little steps in early season. Can be used as an alternative descent.
6 user comments
 I
2
One Pitch Gully
120m. Just L of Cust's Gully, climb easy snow, when the gully splits climb the right hand chimney by its left wall to the top.
 II
3
Duncan's Groove
30m. Right of the well defined upper section of Window Gully climb the steep groove.
 IV 5
4
Window Gully Top 50
140m. Initially poorly defined although usually spotted by a little icy corner approx 100m up the hill from Central Gully. ...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
II/III
5
Wall and Groove Finish
30m. When you reach the upper gully of Window Gully, A collection of icicles form on the right wall of the buttress. Pick a...
 
2 Stars
IV
6
Central Gully Right Arete
170m. A handy alternative if the gully itself is busy or there are poor snow conditions. Pick the easiest line up the right...
 II
7
Central Gully Right Branch
200m. Climb the Gully bed in a couple of pitches to the amphitheatre. From the bay on the right hand side climb the short but...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
II
8
Chimney Finish
30m. From the upper gully of the Right Branch climb the groove/ corner line. As an icy mixed line this, if combined with the...
 
1 Stars
IV 5
9
Arete Direct Top 50
60m. Climb the rib which forms the centre of the amphitheatre, direct. The arête gives very airy climbing, some respite is...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
VI 5
10
Central Gully Left Branch Top 50
110m. Climb the icy groove left of the amphitheatre, if the ice allows it may be possible to leave the groove and climb up...
 
2 Stars
III
11
Far Left Branch
90m. Exit the amphitheatre on it's left hand side level with the base of central arête. Climb the short icy step and follow...
 III
12
The O.G.J way
130m. 1)From the bottom of the amphitheatre climb the groove to a short snow bay belay below a wall.2)Climb the chimney...
 
1 Stars
III
13
South East Buttress
180m. Numerous lines can be climbed on the buttress between the two gullies pick a line that suits your ability.
 II/III
14
South East Gully Top 50
200m. Follow the gully bed to a chockstone. Climb the right branch of the gully up steep snow to an ice pitch which can be...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
III
15
Aspirant
210m. Good snow/ice conditions are needed to do this climb. Before the lowest part of the crag left of SE gully, climb easy...
 IV 4
16
Buttress Right of Right Hand Groove
200m. Climb the obvious buttress finishing direct or more easily on the right.
 III
17
Right Hand Groove
140m. Climb the right hand of the two most obvious groove systems left of the lowest point on the crag. Climb the groove until...
 III
18
Left Hand Groove
137m. The left hand of the two grooves, climb bulging ice to easy angled snow followed by a short but very steep ice pitch...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
IV 4
19
Buttress Left of Left Hand Groove
130m. Make your way up the buttress 20m left of the previous route. A slanting ramp near the top provides the crux.
 III 4
20
Girdle Traverse
365m. Start up Left Hand Groove cross south east gully where it forks. Climb up and right underneath a steep chimney. Ascend a...
 
1 Stars
IV
21
Grossbuttock
300m. A left to right line starting up Window gully traversing lower than the girdle and finishing up South East Gully.
 III
  • Latest Comments

    For BORROWDALE

    Left Hand Groove
    "Did this a couple of times in years past. Whole route first time and just the i..." 21/Feb

    Cust's Gully
    "Last week it was an easy snowslope (with a decent sized cornice), the week befor..." 21/Feb

    Central Gully Right Branch
    "When we did this in March other parties reckoned the crux to be about IV, a bit ..." 31/Aug

    Cust's Gully
    "Does shallow but good snow and fairly thick ice on the two steps not count as in..." 24/Mar

    Central Gully Right Branch
    "Standard grade II when in condition" 23/Mar

    Cust's Gully
    "How likely is it that there will be enough snow to make this grade 1 I agree wit..." 13/Feb

    South East Gully
    "Did this in lean conditions - plenty of ice, no significant snow buildup. Top pi..." 16/Mar top50

    Cust's Gully
    "i say the iced up steps are more like grade 2 tops, i descended them the other w..." 10/Mar

    Cust's Gully
    "Climbed in great conditions, but no snow just ice, there were several steps whic..." 28/Feb

    Window Gully
    "Found this quite tough at the grade but probably not done in ideal conditions. ..." 28/Feb top50

    Central Gully Right Branch
    "3 in the dark" 15/Feb

    Window Gully
    "Very reliable route. In general this takes 3 days of frost (ie night frost, dayt..." 15/Mar top50

    Search for comments