Knight's Move

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Early morning sun
15 mins
Level
Windy

Next is the tallest buttress on the edge, easily recognised by a large overhang on the right. There are several worthwhile routes here with the superb Knight's Move being especially memorable.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Seventy Niner
On the left the loss of the holly has revealed this crack and flake.
 
Graunchy
VS 4c
2
The Keffer
The slabby face on the left. A finish up the bold arete is possible.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
3
Still Orange
Climb the easy slanting ramp then step right to the short-lived but pleasant jamming crack.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4a
4
Rise 'n Shine
The direct approach to the final crack of Still Orange.
 HVS 5a
5
Green Crack
The long blocky crack that leans to the right is awkward.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VD
6
Dover's Progress
An ancient eliminate climbing the slim wall past the cannonball slots. Delicate and not well protected; micro-cams might help.
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
7
Hollyash Crack
The long crack is tricky in its central section. A good intro to off-widths, it can be face climbed too. Huge cams might help.
12 user comments
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
VS 4b
8
Knight's Move
A Burbage classic. Climb past some holes then take the thin cracks (small wires) and the wall above, following the flakes...
36 user comments
 
3 Stars
HVS 5a
9
Peter's Progress
Climb Knight's Move to the break above the roof, follow this all the way to the arete passing a sapling, to an easy finish. A...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
10
Arme Blanche
Crawl past the left side of the overlap to easy ground. A side-runner is sensible though it has been done without.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5 6a
11
Great Crack
Climb the deep corner right of the holly to the overhang then shuffle right and make brutal moves past the lip to enter the...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
VS 5a
12
The Big Chimney
The deep cleft is hard and bold to enter then eases to a capping-stone, which is most easily passed on the right, though a...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HS 4b
13
Windjammer
Pull through the roof and head for the left arete. The desperate direct start is Enterprise, a highball f7C.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
E1 5b
14
The Rainmaker
Pull awkwardly up the rib to the roof then climb the face above, starting with a long reach, then easing.
11 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS 5b
15
Big Chimney Arete
The arete on its right side by some mild laybacking and a tasty high step. Protected by small cams.
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
  • Latest Comments

    For BURBAGE NORTH

    'armless
    "Changed from D to D, no votes" 23/Mar

    Submission
    "This only felt about VS 4b - I think the move is reach dependent (I'm 6' 0"..." 05/Nov

    Peter's Progress
    "Climbed direct up the incipient crack above the tree at the end of the traverse...." 01/Jun

    Nicotine Stain
    "Changed from V4 6B 6b * to V4 6B *, no votes" 28/May

    Side Face
    "Balancy moves, easier for the tall. It's all in the initial move for the break.T..." 11/Jun

    Remergence
    "Sandbag or not, it is still a route and the crux is the desperate long reach at ..." 02/Jun

    Ash Tree Variations
    "The correct name of this route is Ash Tree Variation, not 'Variations'" 22/Apr

    The Chant Direct Finish
    "Solid 6a using small crimps if you can't reach from the good footholds or span f..." 29/Nov

    Bilberry Cake
    "Don't lead harder than VS but didn't find this too difficult, certainly easier c..." 19/Nov

    Hollyash Crack
    "I don't see how you protect this without giant cams. It goes as a good layback ..." 30/Jul

    Bilberry Cake
    "Agree with above, no way HVS - More like HS 4c. Not a bad little one move route ..." 24/May

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