Adjacent Areas
< The Grazer | Twin Chimneys and Falstaff's Are >
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level
15 minsWindy
To the right is the tallest buttress on the edge, easily recognised by a large overhang on the right with a huge holly under it. There are several worthwhile routes here with the superb Knight’s Move being especially memorable. The little extra walking involved with getting here tends to keep some of the crowds away. Guidebook page 206.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
The Keffer 14m. The blunt rib on the left (no gear) leads to ledges, step right for a finish up the arete. 3 user comments | Rounded Fluttery | HVS 5a |
2 |
Still Orange 12m. Climb the easy slanting ramp-line then step right to climb the short-lived but pleasant jamming crack. 5 user comments | 1 Stars | S 4a |
3 |
Green Crack 12m. The long blocky crack that leans to the right is awkward. 4 user comments | 1 Stars | VD |
4 |
Dover's Progress 14m. Climb the narrow wall past the cannonball slots. Delicate and not well protected though a micro-Friend helps. Who says... 6 user comments | Rounded | HVS 5a |
5 |
Hollyash Crack 14m. The long crack that bends right is tricky in its central section and is a good intro to off-width techniques though it can... 12 user comments | 2 Stars | VS 4b |
6 |
Knight's Move 16m. One of the best routes on Burbage North. Climb past some holes then take the thin cracks (small wires) and continue up the... 36 user comments | 3 Stars | HVS 5a |
7 |
Peter's Progress 20m. Climb Knight's Move to the break above the roof and follow this all the way to Great Crack past a tricky bush, to an easy... 4 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | VS 4c |
8 |
Arme Blanche 14m. Scratch past the left edge of the overlap (stay as far right as possible) to easy ground. A side-runner is usual though it... | 1 Stars Reachy Technical Rounded | E5 6a |
9 |
Great Crack 14m. Climb the deep corner behind the holly to the overhang then shuffle right and battle awkwardly past the lip to enter the... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Strong | VS 5a |
10 |
The Big Chimney 12m. The deep cleft is hard and bold to enter then eases to a capping-stone which is most easily passed on the right, though a... 2 user comments | Technical Fluttery | HS 4b |
11 |
Windjammer 10m. Pull through the roof and head for the left arete. The long awaited direct start is Enterprise at a highball V9. 2 user comments | Rounded | E1 5b |
12 |
The Rainmaker 10m. Pull awkwardly up the rib to the roof then climb the face above starting with a long reach, the better of the pair. 11 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy Rounded | HVS 5b |
13 |
Big Chimney Arete 10m. The arete on its right side by some mild laybacking and a tasty high step. Protected by small Friends. 8 user comments | 1 Stars | HS 4b |