Knights Move

Trad
Sun from mid-morning
15 mins
Level

To the right is the tallest buttress on the edge, easily recognised by a large overhang on the right with a huge holly under it. There are several worthwhile routes here with the superb Knight’s Move being especially memorable. The little extra walking involved with getting here tends to keep some of the crowds away.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Keffer
14m. The blunt rib on the left (no gear) leads to ledges, step right for a finish up the arete.
3 user comments
 
Rounded
Fluttery
HVS 5a
2
Still Orange
12m. Climb the easy slanting ramp-line then step right to climb the short-lived but pleasant jamming crack.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4a
3
Green Crack
12m. The long blocky crack that leans to the right is awkward.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
4
Dover's Progress
14m. Climb the narrow wall past the cannonball slots. Delicate and not well protected though a micro-Friend helps. Who says...
6 user comments
 
Rounded
HVS 5a
5
Hollyash Crack
14m. The long crack that bends right is tricky in its central section and is a good intro to off-width techniques though it can...
12 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4b
6
Knight's Move
16m. One of the best routes on Burbage North. Climb past some holes then take the thin cracks (small wires) and continue up the...
36 user comments
 
3 Stars
HVS 5a
7
Peter's Progress
20m. Climb Knight's Move to the break above the roof and follow this all the way to Great Crack past a tricky bush, to an easy...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
VS 4c
8
Arme Blanche
14m. Scratch past the left edge of the overlap (stay as far right as possible) to easy ground. A side-runner is usual though it...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Rounded
E5 6a
9
Great Crack
14m. Climb the deep corner behind the holly to the overhang then shuffle right and battle awkwardly past the lip to enter the...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
VS 5a
10
The Big Chimney
12m. The deep cleft is hard and bold to enter then eases to a capping-stone which is most easily passed on the right, though a...
2 user comments
 
Technical
Fluttery
HS 4b
11
Windjammer
10m. Pull through the roof and head for the left arete. The long awaited direct start is Enterprise at a highball V9.
2 user comments
 
Rounded
E1 5b
12
The Rainmaker
10m. Pull awkwardly up the rib to the roof then climb the face above starting with a long reach, the better of the pair.
11 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
HVS 5b
13
Big Chimney Arete
10m. The arete on its right side by some mild laybacking and a tasty high step. Protected by small Friends.
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
  • Latest Comments

    For BURBAGE NORTH

    Submission
    "This only felt about VS 4b - I think the move is reach dependent (I'm 6' 0"..." 05/Nov

    Peter's Progress
    "Climbed direct up the incipient crack above the tree at the end of the traverse...." 01/Jun

    Nicotine Stain
    "Changed from V4 6B 6b * to V4 6B *, no votes" 28/May

    Side Face
    "Balancy moves, easier for the tall. It's all in the initial move for the break.T..." 11/Jun

    Remergence
    "Sandbag or not, it is still a route and the crux is the desperate long reach at ..." 02/Jun

    Ash Tree Variations
    "The correct name of this route is Ash Tree Variation, not 'Variations'" 22/Apr

    The Chant Direct Finish
    "Solid 6a using small crimps if you can't reach from the good footholds or span f..." 29/Nov

    Bilberry Cake
    "Don't lead harder than VS but didn't find this too difficult, certainly easier c..." 19/Nov

    Hollyash Crack
    "I don't see how you protect this without giant cams. It goes as a good layback ..." 30/Jul

    Bilberry Cake
    "Agree with above, no way HVS - More like HS 4c. Not a bad little one move route ..." 24/May

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