North Cape

Adjacent Areas
< Peter  |  None >

Sport
Afternoon sun
10 mins
Uphill
Windy

An impressive looking crag that doesn't quite deliver all that it promises. There are plenty of decent routes here but the rock is often very sharp and sometimes a bit loose - care required even on the popular routes. The central part of the crag is impressive and has some good lines. On the right is a short steep cave with some quite popular tufa routes and a sharp grey slab further right. The whole area is usually fairly quiet. The bolt spacing on many of the routes used to be rather erratic but this has improved in recent years.
Approach - Park at 'Kasteli Bend' and walk up the concrete road to paint and cairns on the left - the access for North Cape. Follow this to the first rock-band (behind the telegraph pole) then scramble up and right. The first three routes actually start from ledges up on the left, the rest are reached passing behind a boulder and scrambling to the base of the first routes.
Conditions - The crag gets afternoon and evening sun. It is sheltered and dries quickly after rain. Beware of the odd bit of loose rock on some of the routes.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
No-fly Zone
The first route on the main cliff is quite sharp and a bit loose. 32m so care with the ropes needed and don't fall.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Loose
5b
2
B.E.B
A sharp grey lower section leads to a steep finale. Some of the bolts are looking very rusty - care needed.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
6a
3
Galup
Traverse out right to access the grey wall above the cave. An excellent and intimidating route, very sustained to a high crux.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
Fluttery
6a+
4
Sposi
Start up the steep flakes right of the cave for a good pitch mostly on decent holds.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
6c
5
To Proto Moro Mou
A tricky start then easier and nicer above.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
5c
6
Hansch
A decent pitch.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
7
Rosso di Sera
The start is hard and the wall above is sustained.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6a+
8
Grazie
Good climbing on the grey face, the bolt spacing is a worry.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
6a
9
Scanner
A rather bold feeling pitch.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
6a
10
Funatiker
A fun outing - steep but mostly good holds, but with a powerful and reachy crux move.
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Strong
Pumpy
7a+
11
Helios
Steep and with a stopper bouldery crux.
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
8a
12
Nirvana
Good holds and some classic tufa climbing.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7c
13
Mixed
The left-hand of a trio routes up and left of the main cliff - sharp and snappy.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
5c
14
Windy
The central line of a trio routes up and left of the main cliff is also sharp and often windy.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
5b
15
Corner
The right-hand line of a trio routes up and left of the main cliff - more sharp stuff.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
5b
16
Inshallah
Classic upsidedown work across the cave roof. Popular.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
Fluttery
8c+
17
Marshmallow
A shorter version of Inshallah from inside the cave.
 
1 Stars
Strong
8a
18
Seal
A newer line (2015) that starts up a jutting buttress and which needs traffic.
 
1 Stars
Loose
5c
19
Reize
Up the wall and over the roof. Despite being quite a recent addition, some of the bolts may be from a bad batch - check them or...
 
Pumpy
Crimpy
7a
20
Seferis
A big pitch, sharp and sustained.
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
6c
21
Megastore
The start is hard then it eases to about 6a.
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b+
22
Prego
A long line through bulges and mid-height cave.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Crimpy
6b+
23
Leone
This one may be in need of rebolting - check before climbing.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6a+
24
Iglu
Sharp - but they are around here. May still be loose too.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Loose
6a+
25
Et la Cloche Sonne x3
The right edge of the cave with hard moves to access the wall.
 
2 Stars
7b
26
Le Mur d'Epicure
Steep and technical climbing up the streaked wall.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7c
27
Ahimsa
Break right from the Le mur d'epicure for hard face climbing.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b+
28
Orca
The right edge of the cave and sharp wall above.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
7b+
29
Polar Bear
A crux around bolts 3 and 4 then much easier terrain above.
 
2 Stars
Strong
Crimpy
7a
30
Partiro
Tackle the blankest part of the face.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
31
French Connection
The first of a set of easier climbs on the neat grey sharp slab.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6a+
32
Ice Age
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
5c
33
Hawk
The crux is hard and unobvious if done direct. Interesting and sustained, sharp too, with thin moves on the upper slab.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6a+
34
Elk
The start it a bit loose then it improves to some thin face climbing. One of the few here that isn't hard for the grade.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
Loose
6b
35
Polar Star
Hard, sustained and sharp, well bolted though.
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
6b
36
Nordic Walking
The odd bits of loose rock are easily handled/avoided.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6a
37
North Light
Nice climbing, well bolted, with a couple of thin moves at half-height.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6a+
38
Saglis
 ??
39
Mudita
Tufas to a tougher finish.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7c+
40
Stachelscwein
Short and bouldery, there are no issues with the bolting but not a great warm-up.
 
Fluttery
6c+
41
Ren
The slab to a short steep and sharp crack which is tricky to get established in.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
5c
42
Karibou
A sharp beast to a lower-off near Ren.
 
1 Stars
Loose
6a
43
Beluga
A shorter line as far as the bulges.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
5b
44
Whale
A similar line to Beluga. Beware the loose flake out right.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
5b
45
Krill
The far right of the cliff.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
6b
  • Latest Comments

    For NORTH CAPE AREA

    Nirvana
    "powerful tufa climbing - few smaller holds in the end" 12/Dec

    Grazie
    "The best of the three, we thought, with some good climbing on rugosities. All th..." 17/May

    Funatiker
    "OK for the grade. Go for the onsight!" 21/Apr

    Scanner
    "these routes are excellent and worth a visit" 11/Apr

    Nirvana
    "1st part in which you can find hundreds of toe and heel hooks, but the hardest i..." 01/Oct

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