Long Tall Sally

Adjacent Areas
< Brooks' Layback  |  End Slab >

Trad
Sun from mid-morning
20 mins
Level

Possibly the best selection of routes on the cliff and well worth the walk. Amazon Crack gives superb jamming, the blank corner of Long Tall Sally is compelling, and there are other toys to delight. The place can be busy.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Hollybush Gully
A green square-cut slot which is really more of a chimney.
1 user comment
 VD
2
The Screamer
The rather dirty thin crack in the right wall of the gully/chimney.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 5c
3
Gazebo Watusi
From Obscenity, move left to boldly layback up the scary arete.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6b
4
Obscenity
A bit of a tussle especially at the bulge. Wearing a helmet tends to compounded the difficulties and enrich the language.
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Graunchy
VS 4c
5
Amazon Crack
A glorious fissure in the shallow corner which is quite superb and far too short. One of grit's better short 'n' sweet cracks.
17 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HS 4b
6
Amazon Gully
The rift with a tall flake in its back is often used as a way down.
1 user comment
 M
7
Boney Moroney
The fierce thin crack is ultimately unsatisfying. Hard if done direct and a cop-out if not. Keep left for the best hidden...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E2 5c
8
Long Tall Sally
A superb climb up the blank groove. Many people's first Extreme which is odd as it isn't that easy. Passing the bulge is...
33 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Rounded
E1 5b
9
Three Blind Mice
Fine technical climbing up the blank arching wall. Use a couple of chipped pockets on the right to climb the lower leaning wall...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Rounded
E7 6c
10
Greeny Crack
The steep right-hand corner is juggy, well protected and only occasionally green. Mild, with the crux right at the top.
11 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4b
11
Rhapsody in Green
A delicate lower arete leads to a grassy ledge. Continue up the bold lichenous and reachy upper arete.
5 user comments
 
Reachy
Fluttery
HVS 5a
12
Left Studio Climb
The left-hand crack leads to high crux on the delicate arete.
2 user comments
 VD
13
The Artist
The disjointed slab between the two cracks has a thin start.
 
Technical
VS 5a
14
Right Studio Climb
The right-hand crack leads to a ledge and groove - nice enough.
3 user comments
 VD
15
Rose Flake
Steep and enjoyable crack climbing up the north-facing wall on jugs and jams, and with plenty of runners.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
VS 4b
16
The Fin
The hanging groove is a struggle to enter though at least it has overhead gear. It isn't much easier above either. Often...
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
E1 5b
17
Ai No Corrida
Layback boldly up the flying arete. A runner in the next route is only of limited help but it is all you are going to get...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6b
18
Right Fin
An elegant curving flake with a layback move and long stretch before things ease. Low in the grade but bold.
17 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
HVS 5a
19
Twenty Year Itch
The right-hand side of the wall. Highball V4.
 
Technical
E4 6b
20
The Enthusiast
The tricky left arete can be very frustrating.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
V3 6A+
21
Nicotine Stain
The seam is climbed on its left-hand side - thin! A very frustrating problem that sees many floundering attempts and much...
16 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
V4 6B
22
Nicarete
The slab and arete just left of the wide crack.
 
1 Stars
Technical
V1 5b
23
April Fool
Awkward climbing up the prominent wide crack
3 user comments
 
Graunchy
HVD
24
Approach
The thin pocketed wall just right has neat moves.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
V2 5c
25
Spider Crack
A pleasantly-technical crack which even has runners.
8 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS 5b
26
The Be All
The left-hand crack is quite mild but often green.
2 user comments
 HVD 4a
27
The End All
Climb the last crack on the wall is a struggle.
5 user comments
 
Graunchy
Loose
HS 4b
  • Latest Comments

    For BURBAGE NORTH

    All Quiet Direct
    "Changed from V7 7A+ 6c to V7 7A+, no votes" 04/Feb

    Submission
    "This only felt about VS 4b - I think the move is reach dependent (I'm 6' 0"..." 05/Nov

    Peter's Progress
    "Climbed direct up the incipient crack above the tree at the end of the traverse...." 01/Jun

    Nicotine Stain
    "Changed from V4 6B 6b * to V4 6B *, no votes" 28/May

    Side Face
    "Balancy moves, easier for the tall. It's all in the initial move for the break.T..." 11/Jun

    Remergence
    "Sandbag or not, it is still a route and the crux is the desperate long reach at ..." 02/Jun

    Ash Tree Variations
    "The correct name of this route is Ash Tree Variation, not 'Variations'" 22/Apr

    The Chant Direct Finish
    "Solid 6a using small crimps if you can't reach from the good footholds or span f..." 29/Nov

    Bilberry Cake
    "Don't lead harder than VS but didn't find this too difficult, certainly easier c..." 19/Nov

    Hollyash Crack
    "I don't see how you protect this without giant cams. It goes as a good layback ..." 30/Jul

    Bilberry Cake
    "Agree with above, no way HVS - More like HS 4c. Not a bad little one move route ..." 24/May

    Knight's Move
    "The moves weren't too difficult but I wasn't totally happy with the gear in the ..." 21/Nov

    Now or Never
    "Good climbing and well protected, take a friend 3.5 to protect the crucial barn ..." 27/Oct

    Approach
    "Five years later it still feels E2." 23/Jun

    Greeny Crack
    "Top route, got the heart going without desperation. Ankle/knee jam in the crack ..." 04/May

    Green Slab
    "John - Not at bouldering height, no, it's VS." 20/Feb

    Long Tall Sally
    "the start to this is easy just one side pull to the pocket rather than using all..." 04/Oct

    Alpha Crack
    "A real soft touch, easier than Left Twin Crack and if Mutiny Crack is HS, then t..." 05/Sep

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