Long Tall Sally

Trad
Sun from mid-morning
20 mins
Level

Possibly the best selection of routes on the cliff and well worth the walk. Amazon Crack gives superb jamming, the blank corner of Long Tall Sally is compelling, and there are other toys to delight. The place can be busy.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Screamer
8m. The thin crack in the right wall of the gully/chimney is bigger and better than it looks.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 5c
2
Gazebo Watusi
10m. From Obscenity, move left to boldly layback up the heart-stopping arete.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E6 6b
3
Obscenity
12m. A right tussle especially at the bulge where the loss of a couple of good holds hasn't helped. Wearing a helmet tends to...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
Graunchy
VS 4c
4
Amazon Crack
12m. A glorious fissure in the shallow corner which is quite superb and far too short. One of grit's better short cracks.
17 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
HS 4b
5
Amazon Gully
10m. The deep rift just right, with a tall flake in its back, is often used as a way down by the technically proficient.
1 user comment
 M
6
Boney Moroney
10m. The fierce thin crack is hard if done direct and a bit of a cop-out if not. Keep left for the best of the hidden holds.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E2 5c
7
Long Tall Sally
10m. A superb climb up the blank groove. Many people's first Extreme lead which is surprising since it isnít all that easy....
33 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Rounded
E1 5b
8
Three Blind Mice
10m. Fine technical climbing up the blank arching wall. Use a couple of chipped pockets on the right to climb the lower leaning...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Rounded
E7 6c
9
Greeny Crack
10m. The steep right-hand corner is juggy, well protected and only occasionally green. Mild, with the crux right at the top.
11 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4b
10
Rhapsody in Green
8m. A delicate lower arete leads to a grassy ledge. Continue up the bold leaning arete above.
5 user comments
 
Fluttery
HVS 5a
11
Left Studio Climb
8m. The left-hand crack leads to a high crux on the delicate arete.
2 user comments
 VD
12
Right Studio Climb
8m. .... and the right-hand one, leading to a ledge and groove.
3 user comments
 VD
  • Latest Comments

    For BURBAGE NORTH

    Peter's Progress
    "Climbed direct up the incipient crack above the tree at the end of the traverse...." 01/Jun

    Nicotine Stain
    "Changed from V4 6B 6b * to V4 6B *, no votes" 28/May

    Side Face
    "Balancy moves, easier for the tall. It's all in the initial move for the break.T..." 11/Jun

    Remergence
    "Sandbag or not, it is still a route and the crux is the desperate long reach at ..." 02/Jun

    Ash Tree Variations
    "The correct name of this route is Ash Tree Variation, not 'Variations'" 22/Apr

    The Chant Direct Finish
    "Solid 6a using small crimps if you can't reach from the good footholds or span f..." 29/Nov

    Bilberry Cake
    "Don't lead harder than VS but didn't find this too difficult, certainly easier c..." 19/Nov

    Hollyash Crack
    "I don't see how you protect this without giant cams. It goes as a good layback ..." 30/Jul

    Bilberry Cake
    "Agree with above, no way HVS - More like HS 4c. Not a bad little one move route ..." 24/May

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