Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level
20 minsWindy
Possibly the best selection of routes on the cliff and well worth the walk. Amazon Crack gives superb jamming, the blank corner of Long Tall Sally is compelling, and there are other toys to delight. The place can be busy. Guidebook page 211.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
The Screamer 8m. The thin crack in the right wall of the gully/chimney is bigger and better than it looks. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | E1 5c |
2 |
Gazebo Watusi 10m. From Obscenity, move left to boldly layback up the heart-stopping arete. | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E6 6b |
3 |
Obscenity 12m. A right tussle especially at the bulge where the loss of a couple of good holds hasn't helped. Wearing a helmet tends to... 9 user comments | 3 Stars Strong Graunchy | VS 4c |
4 |
Amazon Crack 12m. A glorious fissure in the shallow corner which is quite superb and far too short. One of grit's better short cracks. 17 user comments | 3 Stars Pumpy | HS 4b |
5 |
Amazon Gully 10m. The deep rift just right, with a tall flake in its back, is often used as a way down by the technically proficient. 1 user comment | M | |
6 |
Boney Moroney 10m. The fierce thin crack is hard if done direct and a bit of a cop-out if not. Keep left for the best of the hidden holds. 5 user comments | 1 Stars Technical | E2 5c |
7 |
Long Tall Sally 10m. A superb climb up the blank groove. Many people's first Extreme lead which is surprising since it isn’t all that easy.... 33 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Rounded | E1 5b |
8 |
Three Blind Mice 10m. Fine technical climbing up the blank arching wall. Use a couple of chipped pockets on the right to climb the lower leaning... 5 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Rounded | E7 6c |
9 |
Greeny Crack 10m. The steep right-hand corner is juggy, well protected and only occasionally green. Mild, with the crux right at the top. 11 user comments | 2 Stars | VS 4b |
10 |
Rhapsody in Green 8m. A delicate lower arete leads to a grassy ledge. Continue up the bold leaning arete above. 5 user comments | Fluttery | HVS 5a |
11 |
Left Studio Climb 8m. The left-hand crack leads to a high crux on the delicate arete. 2 user comments | VD | |
12 |
Right Studio Climb 8m. .... and the right-hand one, leading to a ledge and groove. 3 user comments | VD | |