Panorama

Adjacent Areas
< Grande Grotta  |  None >

Sport
Afternoon sun
17 mins
Uphill
Windy

The superb tufa encrusted wall to the right of the Grande Grotta is one of the most popular venues on the island - with ranks of superb routes within walking distance of much of the accommodation. On busy days the climbers look like so many penguins packed on to the icebergs below the wall.
The inferior right-hand side of the wall sees a lot less visitors for the simple reason that the routes aren't all that great, though there are a few things worth seeking out. The recently added easy route of Space Walk is likely to become the most popular climb here.
Conditions The crag faces west and offers shade until early afternoon - it can got hot here in the evenings and the sunsets are always spectacular. The routes dry quickly after rain and it can be windy up here.
Approach - Park by or opposite the Mermaid Statue - almost opposite the Hotel Philoxena. The track starts here and runs up to a gate then a prominent olive tree before heading out left and toiling up the scree path to the welcoming shade and the huge jutting buttress just left of Grande Grotta. Move over right and scramble to ledges below the wall.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Rastapopoulos
The first of three lines off the left end of the high ledge - use a the bolt belay. A good value pitch with a high crux.
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
6c+
2
Aegean Sea Top 50
The 2nd line off the ledge - a superb sustained climb which is both delicate and strenuous. Gain the left side of the small...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a+
3
Cigarillo Top 50
Another one with a crux where you don't want it if you are fading. Some rusty bolts at the moment.
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a
4
Panselinos
A good, sustained and popular pitch climbing on tufas.
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b
5
Carpe Diem Top 50
A popular intro to tufa-wrestling - polished.
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b
6
Joggel & Toggel
Strenuous moves round the right edge of the cave then the pleasanter wall above. Some of the bolts are tired.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
6c+
7
Mind Boggle
A dyno might allow to access the fine sustained wall above, technical and thin then steep and pumpy.
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
7b+
8
Elia
A technical wall accesses the huge orange groove which is the main feature of the upper part of the wall. An immense pitch (7a...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7a
9
Cyclops
Skirt the right edge of the eye to get onto the face above.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Strong
Pumpy
6c
10
Gwundernase
From a higher ledge start just left of the cave and climb the white streak and black tufa before stepping right - tough.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
6b+
11
Russel Paradies
1) 7a+, 2) 6c+. Start as for Gwundernase. Two pitches that runs the full height of the wall. Walk right 55m to locate an abseil...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
12
Lothar Scie
Start just left of a cave and climb the tufa wall - hard at the start and quite run out higher up.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
6b+
13
Steven Up
Gain the long central tufa starting just left of the cave.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
6c+
14
Poupetskaia
A hard bouldery start out of the cave gains the wall.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Rounded
7a+
15
Uncle Bert
The same start as Poupetskaia and the thin wall above.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Crimpy
6c+
16
Uncle Ernie
Start up the pilar between the caves - popular and wicked with a big move going for the undercut tufa.
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6b
17
Bitman
Start left of an orange cave and climb the wall leftwards and then the bulge on tufas - varied and excellent.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b
18
Neptun kl
A steady start leads to good climbing on the upper wall and a tricky bulge to finish.
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
6c
19
Neptun kl Extension
The tough bulge doesn't add much to the experience.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
7b+
20
Steinpilz
A good technical pitch on great (but sharp) rock a tufa crux leads to a crimpy finish.
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a
21
Chnosi Family
Magnificent and unlikely. Make a thin pull over the first bulge then plod on up the wall on territory that looks much harder....
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a
22
Tufeli
Hard and sharp with a high first bolt - a love or hate affair for most.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
23
Mecki Messer
A decent but sharp grey wall climb - hard for the grade.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
24
Boomerang
A fine curving pitch on perfect grey rock - different climbing to most other routes on Kalymnos. It has at three hard sections...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
6c+
25
Michis Hohenfieber
An easy route - the only one for miles.
 
2 Stars
4c
26
Lucido
A fine and long pitch (40m) trending left up the grey wall.
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a+
27
Reptil
Aim for the long bumpy tufa high on the left side of the white wall, a hard lower section and (a little) easier above.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
7a+
28
Bye Bye Felix
Another long classic that climb the right-hand black tufa - just right of the white wall. A right-hand start (rather than via...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7a
29
Eureka
The grey slab is short, a bit sharp and quite hard for the grade.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6a
30
La Vie Selon Gege
Trend right up the wall then go direct. Sharp and a bit reachy.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
6b
31
A Room With A View
A long pitch with a fingery mid-height crux and sustained finale.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
7a+
32
Rastapopoulos Extension
The excellent extension heads through some wild terrain.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b
33
Papakostopoulos
The extension to Cigarillo gives some tough face climbing.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b+
34
Papakostopoulos Extension
The full height of the wall - 55m.
 
3 Stars
8a
35
Where's my Mind
Break right from Cigarillo and climb the wall above the cave.
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
7b
36
Super Carpe Diem
A fine and long extension, the crux comes early on but the interest is well maintained above. The sit-down rest is neat.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b+
37
Carpe Noctem
Basically a right-hand start to Super Carpe Diem.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
6c+
38
Commandante Marcos
Power through the roof of the cave. Not popular.
 
2 Stars
Strong
7a
39
Joggel & Toggel Ext 1
A superb extension up the extended tufa-sytems.
 
3 Stars
Technical
7b+
40
Joggel & Toggel Ext 2
The final extension is sharp, exposed and neglected.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
8a
41
Kopakabana
The crimpy technical start is followed by sustained tufa climbing and a wild pumpy finish
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7b+
42
Kopakabana Extension
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
8a+
43
Manou Tchao
Start as for The Call of the Ktulu but break right on to the steep orange wall. All a bit crumbly.
 
1 Stars
Loose
7b+
44
The Call of the Ktulu
There are crux moves early on then a lot of great climbing above.
 
3 Stars
Technical
7c
45
Lulu in the Sky
The start is hard and often avoided by using the next route. The rest is classic Kaly tufa work.
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
7b
46
Aeolia
The right-trending line is something a bit easier but still excellent - and polished. It has technical climbing up an...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
47
Aeolia Extension
The tufa-encrusted extension to Aeolia has a butch start and is great.
 
3 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
7a+
48
Lothar Là
An excellent extension to Lothar Scie leftwards up the wall.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
6c+
49
UP
Up from Steven to the diagonal roof is a fine extension. The lower-off might be a bit dodgy.
 
3 Stars
7a
50
Steps Ahead
The tufas above the lower-off of Uncle Bert give a good pitch to tricky last moves and a dodgy belay.
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
7a+
51
Taka
Climbs the wall just left of a deep groove. Beware loose rock.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Loose
6c
52
Arno
The long easy club-shaped pillar and short tricky wall - poor.
 5a
53
Hell est Nique
From Elia climb the wall and pillar right of the groove.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7b
54
D.T.F.
The rounded pillar gives a long wandering pitch with several tricky sections. It is sharp and the crux is right at the top.
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
6c
55
L'homme qui tombe a spit
Unbalanced, the hard sharp wall gains the easy groove above.
 
2 Stars
7a+
56
La Risée
A short bouldery crux - okay if you like that kind of thing. The top bolts are in a poor state.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7a+
57
Medical Project
Climb rightwards into the hanging groove to reach ledges and a finish up the short technical slab. Better than it looks.
 
2 Stars
6b+
58
Space Walk
1) 2b, 2) 4a, 3) 6a, 4) 6a+, 5) 5a, 6) -, 7) 5b. A well-named expedition that wanders across the wall into some outrageous...
 
2 Stars
DWS
Fluttery
6a+
  • Latest Comments

    For GRANDE GROTTA AREA

    Ivi
    "harder than dna for sure" 12/Dec top50

    Priapos
    "I think most people do this as a "7c" to the first lower off, and the ..." 26/Apr

    Neptun kl
    "Now re-bolted and much better for it. Still quite tough though for 6c. Is it wor..." 19/Oct

    Joggel &amp; Toggel
    "For me the extension 2 was one of the best routes on island. I found it quite ha..." 11/Sep

    Aphrodite
    "graded 7a+ in the guide, agree with that; the crux its quite polished" 15/Jan

    Taz
    "There are easier 6c's in Kaly for sure... Nice technical second half." 01/Dec

    Steinpilz
    "superb wallclimb, features all from kalymnian tufas to technical climbing on sma..." 18/Oct

    Kalypige
    "Another superb pitch, long and sustained but never desperate." 09/Jun

    Priapos
    "Almost certainly the best stalactite 7c in the world (up to the first belay) tho..." 02/Jun

    Monahiki Elia
    "Great introduction to tufa climbing. Loooved it!" 27/Nov top50

    Uncle Ernie
    "If you ignore the first few metres of polish the rest of the route is really goo..." 10/Oct

    Uncle Ernie
    "should be 3 stars. doesn't feel hard enough for 6b+." 28/Sep

    Mind Boggle
    "another superb route in this sector. good variety: dyno to kick things off, tufa..." 27/Sep

    Trela
    "Well it WAS all of the above until the large tufa snapped off very recently! Ful..." 27/Jun top50

    Aegialis
    "Top 5." 03/Jun top50

    Priapos
    "I thought the first section was 7C despite the rests, though i only had one 80m ..." 24/May

    Aphrodite
    "very hard the crux, but is it broken somethink?" 23/Apr

    Steinpilz
    "One of the best routes I have done on Kalymnos" 15/Apr

    Cigarillo
    "I grabbed the chain but was so pumped I still fell off before I could clip the r..." 12/Apr top50

    Trela
    "Amzing route, lives up to the hype and is much better than routes like DNA for i..." 24/Oct top50

    Uncle Bert
    "I thought that was quite hard for the grade, very crimpy/fingery with lots of ra..." 23/Oct

    Elefantenhimmel
    "They shouldnt be bolting at all in the cave now." 18/Oct

    Elefantenhimmel
    "Noticed someone bolting an extension to this or trella (?) on 30/9 this year......." 18/Oct

    Aphrodite
    "A bit disappointing. Sort of a 'poor mans' Orion but shorter. A path to boulder ..." 05/Jun

    Reptil
    "A big pitch with several hard moves but some reasonable shake-outs en-route. The..." 25/May

    Trela
    "Simply the most amazing route I have ever done. Believe the hype!" 22/May top50

    La Vie Selon Gege
    "I thought it pretty good and at a grade that is not too common in this area. A g..." 19/May

    Kalypige
    "Kaly Pillar is the name on the rock!Its as good as its neighbours as well" 04/Nov

    Elia
    "It's only 35 m. long and 7a+." 03/Nov

    Boomerang
    "couldn't lead it but could top rope it....first crux is pulling past the sharp p..." 01/Nov

    Bye Bye Felix
    "Double jointed hips a definite advantage for this route. The route is sustained,..." 31/Oct

    Steinpilz
    "Superb route, tough lower bulge, easier but sustained in the middle then a sting..." 20/Oct

    Trela
    "I didnt climb this route but ended up on it after going seriously off route on m..." 18/Oct top50

    Monahiki Elia
    "If Carpe Diem is 6a+ Monahiki definitely isn't!" 18/Oct top50

    Kalypige
    "the right name i think is kaly-pige" 11/Oct

    Massalia
    "the first picth is not nice" 10/Oct

    Trela
    "Nice and was liberally covered in blood when i climbed it. Not mine though. Lots..." 03/Oct top50

    Carpe Diem
    "I'd agree with 6b! Not to be used as a warm up unless you're climbing 7a..." 24/Sep top50

    Search for comments