The Leaning Block

Adjacent Areas
< The Riffler  |  The Right Walls >

Trad
Morning sun
5 mins
Uphill
Windy

The main feature of the Higgar is the impressive chunk of rock of the Leaning Block. The front face is criss-crossed with many fine climbs; The Rasp is one of the best E2s in the Peak. The east-facing side-wall has the classic jamming crack of The File which gets morning sun.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Sander
The side-wall is reached from across the gully (a direct start is possible but artificial). Make hard off-balance moves to...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4 6a
2
Block and Tackle
The arete is taxing. Start as for The Sander but swing on to the front at a jug. Move up to a good break and tackle the central...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
E6 6b
3
Surform
Layback up the leaning flake quickly until a tricky traverse leads left to gain a small ledge. Bridge the corner then escape...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
E1 5b
4
The Rasp Top 50
A contender for the best outing on grit! Sprint up the layback flakes trending right to a rest on jams at a break. Before...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
E2 5b
5
Rasp Direct
A sharp finger-crack and tough layback lead rapidly to the crux of the regular route and then its poor rest in the niche. Once...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
E3 6a
6
Flute of Hope
A big butch diagonal that originally started by climbing the first 4m of The File creating a rope-work nightmare. Climb Bat Out...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Strong
E4 6a
7
Bat Out of Hell
An exciting direct line. Climb the blunt rib on the right-hand side of the face to a flake. Follow this and, from the top of...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
E5 6a
8
Linkline
Follow Bat Out of Hell to the first break then step right to a large rugosity. Stand on this to reach the next break then...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Strong
E5 6c
9
Pulsar Direct
The sustained and technical left side of the arete throughout. The original Pulsar started up Rowley Birkin and moved left to...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
E6 6b
10
Rowley Birkin QC
Follow the arete left of The File on its right side throughout. Precarious moves on tiny undercuts and pebbles are followed by...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
E6 6c
11
The File Top 50
Perhaps the Peak's pre-eminent jamming crack. A compelling crack in the south-facing wall gobbles cams and arguments about the...
18 user comments
 
3 Stars
VS 4c
12
The Raven
The right-arete of The File has a desperate lower section (runner up and right) but soon eases. HVS 5b if started on the right.
1 user comment
 
Technical
E2 6b
13
Paddock
From a block climb the zig-zag cracks.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
14
Greymalkin
From the block, trend right up the face following a thin crack to a final (avoidable) long reach.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4a
15
Hecate
The juggy groove and arete just to the right. A tough start up the crack (4b ) is possible, otherwise step off the block.
2 user comments
 VD
16
Rock Around the Block
The girdle of the Riffler wall and the Leaning Block is epic.See page 299 for line of the first pitch.1) 5a. Start up...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E5 6a
  • Latest Comments

    For HIGGAR TOR

    The File
    "I can't jam so found this quite pumpy - I was pleased that a couple of my jams a..." 19/Apr top50

    Wotan's Corner
    "Changed from D to D, no votes" 23/Mar

    The Rasp
    "Is this meant to be bottom of the Top50 E2s? Harder than Five Finger Exercise an..." 06/Sep top50

    The File
    "i'd give it hvs 4c cos it's steep and sustained. i led it onsight and am an aver..." 17/Aug top50

    The Rasp
    "To onsight this 'stonking chunderpump' you just need a decent set of cams and pl..." 07/Jul top50

    The Rat's Tail
    "Yeah, its def tough for VS. I led the Rasp cleanly then fell off this seconding..." 18/Jun

    Surform
    "still hvs , load of bomber gear" 10/Jun

    Doddle
    "yer, right. never S i've climb VS that are a lot easier. It steep and there very..." 29/Aug

    Splint
    "A one move wonder but a spooky move. I thought it was a worth while route." 05/May

    The File
    "could do with being ten times longer. nuff said" 23/Apr top50

    The Rasp
    "A proper mission, but managed to get the clean on-sight. If you like steep clim..." 16/Apr top50

    The Riffler
    "Gets harder as you go up, the top move is much harder than the roof" 21/Mar

    Search for comments