Gable Crag

Adjacent Areas
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Winter
No sun
Uphill
80 mins

GR.213105 900m N Facing Home of the hardest winter route in the Lakes, Gable Crag lends itself very well to a modern mixed approach. The rock hoars up very quickly, the routes are turfy and the cracks are perfectly formed to give brilliant hooks. Tread gently or you'll upset the old school guardians of how climbing used to be. Look out for a cold Northerly, a couple of nights frost and a cloudy day and it's worth a look in. There a brilliant routes at all grades. Approach. The quickest approach is from the top of Honister. You get a good view of the crag as you walk in. Contour round under Brandreth and Grey Knotts, before going over Green Gable to Windy Gap. A small path traverses in under the crags. Descent. Either descend easy ground to the left of the main buttresses or in poor visibility descend the main footpath back to Windy Gap.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Windy Ridge
75m. First reported ascent winter 2002, thought to have been climbed before.
 IV
2
Pinnacle Crack Direct
60m. This route is on the slabs that form the right hand side of the buttress with the Slant and Mallorys right hand route. ...
 
1 Stars
IV 6
3
The Serpent
60m. Follow the summer line.
 
2 Stars
VI 7
4
Mallorys Right Hand Route
100m. The lower buttress can be climbed in two good pitches from the bay with the obvious slab on its left hand side. Either...
 VI 6
5
Bottleneck Blues
40m. Just right of the prow of the buttress is an obvious corner which can be seen from below. Make good undercut moves into...
 IV
6
Pinnacle Ridge Top 50
180m. From the obvious bay with the slab on its left hand side climb the well defined rib on the right for a pitch. After this...
 
3 Stars
III
7
Oblique Reference
120m. From the foot of Oblique chimney descend 10m to an obvious pillar. Climb the groove on the left to the top of the...
 
1 Stars
IV 4
8
Oblique Chimney
55m. The prominent left slanting chimney.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
IV 5
9
Bottlescrue
55m. Climb an ascending Right to Left line starting 10m up and right from the toe of the buttress and finishing in Oblique...
 IV 5
10
Summertime Blues
70m. Takes the shallow chimney line in the left side of the headwall.
 IV 5
11
Hooch
40m. A mixed climb with reasonable protection, taking the wall just right of the summer line, Moonshiner in the area left of...
 IV 5
12
Clark Gable
130m. Follow the wide gully to gain an amphitheatre below the headwall. Trend right round the rib to gain the top of Engineers...
1 user comment
 II/III
13
Engineers Chimney
A classic struggle, follow the summer line
 
2 Stars
V 4
14
Sledgate Ridge
Follow the summer line the crux being the initial crack. Can be used as a link to a route on the Engineers Slab.
1 user comment
 IV
15
Troll
60m. Follow the summer line
 VII 8
16
Snickersnack Top 50
70m Follow the summer line in two pitches. Very sustained sequency climbing with the technical crux pulling through the upper...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
DWS
Strong
VIII 9
17
Engineers Slabs Top 50
65m. Follow the summer line the crux is the 10m traverse R at mid height.
 
3 Stars
VI 7
18
Engineers Slab Arete Finish
20m. At the bottom of the upper groove climb the forked crack in the left wall to the spike on the arête. Continue delicately...
 VI 7
19
Jabberwock Top 50
75m. Follow the summer line. Brilliant exposed climbing.
 
3 Stars
VII 7
20
Trundle Ridge Top 50
120m. Follow the summer line, the crux pitch is the steep crack up the front of the detatched pillar. From a belay after...
 
2 Stars
VII 7
21
Gable End
150m. Start up easy slopes to the left of Central Gully and head to a gully and corner line running directly up the crag...
 II/III
22
Central Gully Top 50
230m. Climb the chimney direct in two pitches to the head wall. From here climb the small steep corner chimney up and right...
 
2 Stars
III
23
Smart Exit
73m. From below the headwall, climb up the L slanting groove. This leads to the left hand end of a large snowslope. Move easily...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
IV 4
24
The Contrived Eliminate
54m. From below the headwall in central gully climb an iced crack direct to a large snow slope. Cross this to below a slabby...
 IV 5
25
Bootleggers Groove
150m. Start at the base of Central Gully. 1) 40m. Climb up rightwards to an overhanging block at 12m. Pull over (first crux),...
 III
26
Back Off
100m. A winter line based around the summer HVS Smaug. From the next bay R of central Gully.1) Climb the steep corner with the...
 VI 7
27
In Her Mouth
90m. 1) 30m Start as for the summer line Sundowner. From a spike on the left traverse right into a chimney/groove and climb...
 V
28
Moses' Back Door
190m. Start up the broad gully on the Right hand side of the crag. Climb the Right to Left rising line.
 II
29
Doctors Chimney
130m. The obvious chimney on the Left side of the wide gully 50m past Moses Back Door.
 
1 Stars
III
  • Latest Comments

    For GREAT GABLE

    Sledgate Ridge
    "The crux crack aint too bad, its the 3rd pitch which gives the greatest difficul..." 01/Feb

    Garden of Eden
    "No useable ice in corner but turf well frozen with a dusting of snow made it fee..." 28/Feb

    Epsilon Chimney
    "Definately deserves more than one star. Really enjoyable and sustained grade II..." 22/Jun

    Gully of the Plods
    "Short but worthwhile." 09/Mar

    Snickersnack
    "Surprised to see this is a DWS!" 29/Nov top50

    Smart Exit
    "Probably climbed before" 19/Mar

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