Scafell East Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Winter
Lots of sun!
90 mins
Uphill

GR.215067 750m SE Facing There is potential for some desperate modern mixed routes here, the hard pitches to have been climbed already have involved abseil approaches. A cloudy cold spell is needed to bring the crag into condition for hard mixed routes. When it does come into condition next, this may be where the hardest routes in the Lakes could be found. It is not known whether or not any of the existing hard routes on the crag have been repeated and as such the grades should be treated with caution. Approach: Via Brown Tongue as for Scafell.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Mickledore Chimney
115m. The distinctive chimney 50m down from Mickledore, it is possible to escape from below the first choskstone.
 III
2
Variation Finish
15m. A good ice pitch often forms on the left side of the upper gully.
 IV
3
Variation Start
Just right of the bottom of Mickledore Chimney, a groove gives a short ice pitch with a hard start.
 III
4
Tia Maria
50m. When the left wall of Mickledore Chimney steepens this follows the first crack system up the steep left wall.
 V 6
5
Overhanging Wall
50m. Start at an overhung ledge 10m left of the wall. This is the only route to start at the bottom of the crag. A corner to...
 V 6
6
Minotaur Top 50
75m. Abseil Approaches were used on the following routes
 
3 Stars
VI 5
7
May Day Direct
 VI 6
8
White Slab
40m.
 III 3
9
Overhanging Wall-Original Finish
45m.
 IV 5
10
Slime Chimney
130m. Follow the summer line.
 IV 4
  • Latest Comments

    For WASDALE

    Steep Gill
    "I would have to agree with the above comments. I climbed it in poor conditions (..." 03/Nov top50

    Slingsby's Chimney Route
    "Thought the chimney was worth V5 as I couldn't excavate any pro in the thing (on..." 16/Dec top50

    Crenation Ridge
    "Some difficult short steps, we thought II 4 the day we did it!" 04/May

    Steep Gill Direct start
    "Felt like a sustained, technical 6, with gear not always easy to spot in a moss ..." 15/Mar top50

    Slingsby's Chimney Route
    "Just adding to above, Slingsby's Chimney's desperate but only for about three mo..." 05/Apr top50

    Moss Gill
    "climbed moss gill on 16/3/06 and agree with much of above and would put it at V ..." 31/Mar top50

    The Direct Route
    "The start we took direct and seemed fairly tough and steep to me for a grade (II..." 23/Mar

    Moss Gill
    "Did Moss Ghyll on 18.3.06 in good condition. To my mind the pitches were: 1. ..." 20/Mar top50

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