New Year Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Railway Slab  |  Central Buttress >

Trad
No sun
Uphill
5 mins
Sheltered

The far left-hand end of the crag has some excellent lower grade routes, a couple of which are popular with groups hence the awful state of the foot of the cliff. The place was popular years ago; one can only assume that, at the height of the Industrial Revolution, the crag was lot cleaner than it is nowadays! Guidebook page 366.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
East Crack
16m. Climb the grotty crack, or the harder slab to its left. Continue until it is possible to traverse out left then attack the...
 S 3c
2
Mental Pygmy
8m. Climb to the beckoning roof-crack high on the buttress and battle up this to a perplexing exit. Tiny but taxing.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
E3 6a
3
New Year Buttress
16m. An indifferent start up the groove (or good 4b boulder-problem just left) leads to better climbing in the upper reaches,...
2 user comments
 HVD
4
Queen's Parlour Slab
16m. An ancient classic, much harder and bolder than you might expect! Climb the easy groove until the projecting buttress to...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
VS 4b
5
Queen's Parlour Gully
26m. The gully cutting left of the biggest overhangs is a great introduction to climbing. Pass either side of the block...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
D
6
Original Route
26m. Start as for Queen’s Parlour Gully (or more direct - 4b) and slant right - more big chipped holds - to a possible stance...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVD 3c
7
Queen's Parlour Chimney
26m. Follow Original Route but back-and-foot the exposed outer part of the chimney to ledges and right-slanting exit.
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
8
DynoMight
24m. The arete right of Queen’s Parlour Chimney on its right hand side. A poor RP1 in a sandy break protects a dyno followed by...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
E7 6b
9
The Raunge
8m. Scramble up Pine Tree Gully then climb the crack in the side wall of the gully. Traverse the upper of the two horizontal...
 
Rounded
HS 4b
10
Pine Tree Gully
12m. The rift in the left-hand side of the wide gully improves with height. Back-and-footing is one way of doing it.
 D
  • Latest Comments

    For BLACK ROCKS

    Queen's Parlour Gully
    "Great climb, I needed to get my confidence back on grit and this was just right ..." 06/May

    Lone Tree Groove
    "Getting a bit polished now...but good fun all the same. Bit of a grunt onto the ..." 29/Jan

    Lone Tree Gully
    "nice route, plenty of bridging if you want it. I think S4a is about right, altho..." 16/Oct

    Queen's Parlour Slab
    "You are joking right? The traverse has bomber big cams and is 4b, the slab above..." 18/Apr

    Lean Man's Climb
    "In 1960, I was intrigued by the characteristic elephant's ear. I sorted that aft..." 26/Dec

    Gaia
    "yeah the fall at the start of hard grit stopped me even considering doing it, ev..." 25/Aug

    Stonnis Crack
    "Not as hard as it felt at the time :-) A good finish is to go up the arete on t..." 24/Aug

    Blind Man's Crack
    "I'll be honest- I enjoyed this route. Earns it's star, imho." 23/Aug

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