Queen's Parlour

Adjacent Areas
< Railway Slab  |  Central Buttress >

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No sun
0 mins
Up and Down
Sheltered

The far left-hand end of the crag has some nice lower grade routes, a couple of which are popular with groups hence the trashed state of the cliff base. The place was popular way back, at the height of the polluting Industrial Revolution - it must have been cleaner than it is now!
Approach (see map on page 520) - Undulate left to a clearing under the face.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
East Crack
Start on the left below a left-facing groove high on the crag. Climb a grotty crack, or the harder slab to its left. Continue...
 
Graunchy
S
2
Mental Pygmy
Climb to the beckoning roof-crack high on the buttress and battle up this to a perplexing exit. Tiny but taxing and often...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
E3
3
New Year Buttress
An indifferent vegetated start up the groove (or a f3+ boulder problem just left) leads to better climbing with an exposed...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVD
4
Queen's Parlour Slab
This ancient classic can feel bit bold. Climb the easy slab until the projecting buttress to the right can be reached by a...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS
5
Queen's Parlour Gully
The gully left of the big overhangs is a good intro to climbing, but it is polished and hard when damp. Pass either side of the...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
VD
6
Original Route
Start as for Queen's Parlour Gully (or more direct - a grubby 4b ) and slant right - more big chipped holds - to a possible...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
HVD
7
Queen's Parlour Chimney
Follow Original Route but back-and-foot the exposed outer part of the chimney to ledges and a right-slanting exit. An...
 
1 Stars
HS
8
DynoMight
The bold arete on its right-hand side via a couple of dynos, linked by a couple of mantels. Poor protection.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Dyno
E7
9
Pine Tree Gully
The pine-less rift in the left-hand side of the wide gully improves with height. Back-and-footing is one way of doing it.
1 user comment
 
Graunchy
D
10
The Raunge
Scramble up Pine Tree Gully then climb the crack in the side-wall of the gully, traversing the horizontal break. Awkward and...
 
Graunchy
HS
11
Moonchild
The pale wall is climbed on not very much.
 
1 Stars
E7
12
Birch Tree Climb
The slot in the high buttress is approached direct then threaded.
 
Graunchy
HVD
13
Green Crack
The well-named crack high in the right-hand wall of the gully; short lived but hard work. Sadly it is almost always dirty.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HVS
14
Black Crack
The cleaner right-hand crack gives good jamming or laybacking. Well protected and excellent when dry - a fine physical pitch.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS
  • Latest Comments

    For BLACK ROCKS

    Left Promontory Gully
    "Changed from D 3a to D 3a, no votes" 23/Mar

    Queen's Parlour Gully
    "Great climb, I needed to get my confidence back on grit and this was just right ..." 06/May

    Lone Tree Groove
    "Getting a bit polished now...but good fun all the same. Bit of a grunt onto the ..." 29/Jan

    Lone Tree Gully
    "nice route, plenty of bridging if you want it. I think S4a is about right, altho..." 16/Oct

    Queen's Parlour Slab
    "You are joking right? The traverse has bomber big cams and is 4b, the slab above..." 18/Apr

    Lean Man's Climb
    "In 1960, I was intrigued by the characteristic elephant's ear. I sorted that aft..." 26/Dec

    Gaia
    "yeah the fall at the start of hard grit stopped me even considering doing it, ev..." 25/Aug

    Stonnis Crack
    "Not as hard as it felt at the time :-) A good finish is to go up the arete on t..." 24/Aug

    Blind Man's Crack
    "I'll be honest- I enjoyed this route. Earns it's star, imho." 23/Aug

    Shredded Feet
    "Amazing!" 12/May

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