Central Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< New Year Buttress  |  The Promontory >

Trad
No sun
5 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

The attractive slabby face of Central Buttress with the conspicuous tooth of the Stonnis Pinnacle is home to a classic HVD and some good but neglected crack climbs. A quick ascent of the Pinnacle is straightforward at VDiff and thankfully the ancient ‘trick’ of leaping from its summit back to the main face is not considered necessary nowadays!

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Green Crack
8m. The oft well named crack, high in the right-hand wall of the gully, is short-lived but hard work. Sadly it is almost always...
 HVS 5a
2
Black Crack
10m. The right-hand crack gives good jamming and/or laybacking. Well protected and excellent when dry, a fine pitch.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
3
Central Buttress
24m. A classic outing, although not especially central! Start around to the left of the buttress, on damp grassy ledges, at a...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Rounded
HVD 3c
4
Central Buttress Direct
24m. The front face of the lower buttress is balancy, reachy and green. It feels bold despite the runners in the break and a...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Reachy
E1 5a
5
Central Buttress Chimney
18m. The narrowing-chimney is grassy to start and hard at the blocked exit. Step left to join and finish up Central Buttress.
 VS 4c
6
Blind Man's Crack
16m. A pleasant groove in the right-hand wall of Central Buttress which is awkward to start and easier above.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VD 4a
7
Blind Man's Buttress
16m. Traverse the well-battered break out left from the gully to reach Blind Man’s Crack, then teeter back right to gain the...
 
1 Stars
HVD 4a
8
Left Promontory Gully
24m. The deeply-recessed gully left of The Promontory gives easy scrambling to a steeper exit on the right up a short steep and...
 D 3a
  • Latest Comments

    For BLACK ROCKS

    Queen's Parlour Gully
    "Great climb, I needed to get my confidence back on grit and this was just right ..." 06/May

    Lone Tree Groove
    "Getting a bit polished now...but good fun all the same. Bit of a grunt onto the ..." 29/Jan

    Lone Tree Gully
    "nice route, plenty of bridging if you want it. I think S4a is about right, altho..." 16/Oct

    Queen's Parlour Slab
    "You are joking right? The traverse has bomber big cams and is 4b, the slab above..." 18/Apr

    Lean Man's Climb
    "In 1960, I was intrigued by the characteristic elephant's ear. I sorted that aft..." 26/Dec

    Gaia
    "yeah the fall at the start of hard grit stopped me even considering doing it, ev..." 25/Aug

    Stonnis Crack
    "Not as hard as it felt at the time :-) A good finish is to go up the arete on t..." 24/Aug

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