Long John's Stride

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< Hell Gate Area  |  Cascade Buttress >

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Sun and Shade
20 mins
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An isolated set of quiet buttresses with a good selection of climbs. It can be green here in winter.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
October Climb
Climb a crack passing a tall jammed block to ledges then finish up the left-hand side of the face above.
 S 4a
2
October Arete Original
Start up October Climb to the jammed block then make tricky moves out to the arete. Finish on the right with difficulty.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
HVS 5a
3
October Arete
The left-hand arete of the tower has a hard, reachy and poorly protected start until it joins the Original and eases to...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E2 5c
4
Autumn Wall
The face of the tower is climbed past an overlap early on with thin moves on poor holds at half-height. A great outing.
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E4 6a
5
A Deepcar Named Desire
A narrow eliminate up the wall.
 
Technical
E5 6b
6
Equinox
The right-hand arete features escalating difficulties.
 
1 Stars
E3 6a
7
Chockstone Chimney
Climb the blocky crack on the left inside the alcove to a tricky final section, which includes a belly-flop exit.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VD
8
V-Chimney
Bridge the right-hand cleft, recognisable by its angular form.
 
Graunchy
VD
9
The Candle Snuffer
In the back right side of the alcove is a narrowing chimney. Climb this to its closure then escape out right. Make sure you...
 
Graunchy
S 4b
10
Spider Cracks
The left-leaning thin cracks to a deeper continuation.
 
Technical
VS 5a
11
Grammarian's Progress
Worthwhile but bold. Starting at the tunnel climb the arete on its left before pulling round onto the front face. A...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
VS 4c
12
Grammarian's Direct
Balance up the lower arete to join the original then finish direct with an awkward mantelshelf.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HVS 5a
13
Gwyn
The centre of the north-facing wall of the central tower has a taxing moves to start, a tricky mantel and scant gear.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
E3 5c
14
Grammarian's Face
Start up the right arete (runners to the left) then make awkward moves out left to access the mantel on Gwyn.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E1 5b
15
Grammarian's Face Direct
The right-hand arete is tackled direct with bold and precarious moves at half-height that will concentrate the mind.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E2 5b
16
Long John's Eliminate
A fine bold pitch that meanders up the valley face. Climb the arete as for the previous climb but traverse the face on the...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5b
17
Long John's Superdirect
A direct line up the face via a flake and scoop, crossing Long John's Eliminate and finishing close to the top right-hand...
 
1 Stars
E3 5c
18
Cannae
The wall left of the tunnel leads to the groove on the Eliminate.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5b
19
Long John's Ordinary
The easiest way up the tower. Tackle the left-hand of a pair of chimneys to the notch then continue up the inside arete of the...
 
1 Stars
S 4a
20
Impish
The undercut arete gets quite high.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
V5 6C
21
Imp Wall
Climb the wall using some slopers.
 V3 6A+
22
Long Chimney
The prominent tall narrowing cleft. The wall just left gives a variation at a slightly harder grade.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
D
23
Inclusion
Shin up the awkward arete on its right-hand side.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
24
Richard's Revenge
The thin crack is awkward to start (almost 5aâÄä), passing an ancient peg scar (tut, tut!) and features excellent jamming...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
VS 4c
25
Lincoln Crack
The lovely clean-cut crack on the right often looks green though the holds are usually clean. A neat little pitch.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVD 4a
26
Long John's Arete
The sharp arete above a poor landing.
 
1 Stars
Bumstart
V4 6B
  • Latest Comments

    For WHARNCLIFFE

    Just a Minute
    "Have to disagree with just about all of the above. It's certainly not 'hopeless'..." 10/May

    The Crack of Doom
    "I'm a little bulky through the shoulder and chest, I can get one shoulder in and..." 30/Mar

    Sidewinder
    "Not that reachy - my partner is fairly short but had no problem reaching the top..." 06/Aug

    Cannae
    "The other good, non-eliminate, non-wandering line on here, when finished up the ..." 05/May

    Great Buttress
    "The line as described in PGE (I was using the first edition) is clearly wrong. ..." 06/Apr

    The Flue
    "Only hard bit is getting into sentry box. Then a fun squirm. Hard Diff?" 02/Apr

    Desolation Angel
    "agree with all above. looks harder than it is. i would probably say E5, compared..." 13/Mar

    Scarlett's Wall Arete
    "Nice face climbing." 27/Oct

    Rook Chimney
    "A bit polished lower down and not a smooth climb i.e. bitty!" 26/Oct

    Banana Wall
    "agree with brown. E2 5c/6a depending on reach." 19/Oct

    Great Buttress Arete
    "It is possible with some care and attention to place adequate wire protection. ..." 14/Oct

    Easy Groove
    "More a chimney than a groove, though climbed by bridging rather than chimneying...." 07/Sep

    Renrock
    "Very straightforward 5a moves for a consolidated onsight E1 leader. Bouldering h..." 29/May

    Thrown Away
    "A corking route. Very pumpy and the three reachy moves got the heart racing. I'm..." 23/May

    Helping Hand
    "Totally disjointed and a two move wonder, but quite pleasant overall. The finish..." 04/Apr

    Renrock
    "Don't follow the "lack of gear" arguements, as there is gear in the fl..." 30/Oct

    Desolation Angel
    "Not even sure where the side runners would go - ones in the gulleys either side ..." 18/Oct

    Primal Void
    "Looked rather bold for VS 5a - are there hidden gear placements?" 08/Oct

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