Long John's Stride

Adjacent Areas
< Hell Gate Area  |  Cascade Buttress >

Trad
Sun and Shade
20 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

An isolated set of quiet buttresses with a good selection of climbs. It can be very green here in winter or after rain, and the trees make it midgy in summer.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
October Climb
Climb a crack passing a tall jammed block to ledges then finish up the left-hand side of the face above.
 S
2
October Arete Original
Start up October Climb to the jammed block then make tricky moves out to the arete. Finish on the right with difficulty.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
HVS
3
October Arete
The left-hand arete of the tower has a hard, reachy and poorly protected start until it joins the Original and eases to...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E2
4
Autumn Wall
The face of the tower is climbed past an overlap early on with thin moves on poor holds at half-height. A great outing.
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E4
5
A Deepcar Named Desire
A narrow eliminate up the wall.
 
Technical
E5
6
Equinox
The right-hand arete features escalating difficulties.
 
1 Stars
E3
7
Chockstone Chimney
Climb the blocky crack on the left inside the alcove to a tricky final section, which includes a belly-flop exit.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VD
8
V-Chimney
Bridge the right-hand cleft, recognisable by its angular form.
 
Graunchy
VD
9
The Candle Snuffer
In the back right side of the alcove is a narrowing chimney. Climb this to its closure then escape out right. Make sure you...
 
Graunchy
S
10
Spider Cracks
The left-leaning thin cracks to a deeper continuation.
 
Technical
VS
11
Grammarian's Progress
Worthwhile but bold. Starting at the tunnel, climb the arete on its left before pulling round onto the front face. A...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
VS
12
Grammarian's Direct
Balance up the lower arete to join the original then finish direct with an awkward mantelshelf.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HVS
13
Gwyn
The centre of the north-facing wall of the central tower has taxing moves to start, a tricky mantel and scant gear.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
E3
14
Grammarian's Face
Start up the right arete (runners to the left) then make awkward moves out left to access the mantel on Gwyn.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E1
15
Grammarian's Face Direct
The right-hand arete is tackled direct with bold and precarious moves at half-height that will concentrate the mind.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E2
16
Long John's Eliminate
A fine bold pitch that meanders up the valley face. Climb the arete as for the previous climb but traverse the face on the...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E2
17
Long John's Superdirect
A direct line up the face via a flake and scoop, crossing Long John's Eliminate and finishing close to the top right-hand...
 
1 Stars
E3
18
Cannae
The wall left of the tunnel leads to the groove on the Eliminate.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2
19
Long John's Ordinary
The easiest way up the tower. Tackle the left-hand of a pair of chimneys to the notch then continue up the inside arete of the...
 
1 Stars
S
20
Impish
The undercut arete gets quite high.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
f6C
21
Imp Wall
Climb the wall using some slopers.
 
Technical
f6A+
22
Long Chimney
The prominent tall narrowing cleft. The wall just left gives a variation at a slightly harder grade.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
D
23
Inclusion
Shin up the awkward arete on its right-hand side.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E1
24
Richard's Revenge
The thin crack is awkward to start (almost 5a ), passing an ancient peg scar (tut, tut!) and features excellent jamming above.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
VS
25
Lincoln Crack
The lovely clean-cut crack on the right often looks green though the holds are usually clean. A neat little pitch.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVD
26
Long John's Arete
The sharp arete above a poor landing.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
f6B
  • Latest Comments

    For WHARNCLIFFE

    Deep Chimney
    "Changed from D * to D *, no votes" 19/Jun

    Just a Minute
    "Have to disagree with just about all of the above. It's certainly not 'hopeless'..." 10/May

    The Crack of Doom
    "I'm a little bulky through the shoulder and chest, I can get one shoulder in and..." 30/Mar

    Sidewinder
    "Not that reachy - my partner is fairly short but had no problem reaching the top..." 06/Aug

    Cannae
    "The other good, non-eliminate, non-wandering line on here, when finished up the ..." 05/May

    Great Buttress
    "The line as described in PGE (I was using the first edition) is clearly wrong. ..." 06/Apr

    The Flue
    "Only hard bit is getting into sentry box. Then a fun squirm. Hard Diff?" 02/Apr

    Desolation Angel
    "agree with all above. looks harder than it is. i would probably say E5, compared..." 13/Mar

    Scarlett's Wall Arete
    "Nice face climbing." 27/Oct

    Rook Chimney
    "A bit polished lower down and not a smooth climb i.e. bitty!" 26/Oct

    Banana Wall
    "agree with brown. E2 5c/6a depending on reach." 19/Oct

    Great Buttress Arete
    "It is possible with some care and attention to place adequate wire protection. ..." 14/Oct

    Easy Groove
    "More a chimney than a groove, though climbed by bridging rather than chimneying...." 07/Sep

    Renrock
    "Very straightforward 5a moves for a consolidated onsight E1 leader. Bouldering h..." 29/May

    Thrown Away
    "A corking route. Very pumpy and the three reachy moves got the heart racing. I'm..." 23/May

    Helping Hand
    "Totally disjointed and a two move wonder, but quite pleasant overall. The finish..." 04/Apr

    Renrock
    "Don't follow the "lack of gear" arguements, as there is gear in the fl..." 30/Oct

    Desolation Angel
    "Not even sure where the side runners would go - ones in the gulleys either side ..." 18/Oct

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