Long John's Stride

Adjacent Areas
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Sun and Shade
Up and Down
30 mins

An isolated set of quiet buttresses with a good selection of climbs. It can be green here in winter. Guidebook page 54.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
October Climb
14m. Climb a crack passing a tall jammed block to ledges then finish up the left-hand side of the face above.
 S 4a
2
October Arete Original
12m. Start up October Climb to the jammed block then make tricky moves out to the arete. Finish on the right with Diculty.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
HVS 5a
3
October Arete
12m. The left-hand arete of the tower has a hard, reachy and poorly protected start until it joins the Original.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E2 5c
4
Autumn Wall
12m. The face of the tower is climbed past an overlap early on and with thin moves on poor holds at half-height.
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E4 6a
5
Equinox
12m. The right-hand arete features escalating Diculties.
 
1 Stars
E3 6a
6
Chockstone Chimney
10m. Climb the blocky crack on the left inside the alcove to a tricky final section - the chocks both help and hinder.
 
1 Stars
VD
7
V-Chimney
8m. The right-hand cleft, recognised by its angular shape.
 VD
8
The Candle Snuffer
6m. In the back of the alcove is a narrowing chimney. Climb this to its closure then escape out right.
 
Graunchy
S 4b
9
Spider Cracks
8m. The left-leaning spidery cracks to a deeper continuation.
 
Technical
VS 5a
10
Grammarian's Progress
14m. Starting at the through-tunnel climb the arete on its left before pulling round onto the front face. A poorly protected...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
VS 4b
11
Grammarianís Direct
12m. Balance up the lower arete to join the original then finish direct with an awkward mantelshelf.
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HVS 5a
12
Gwyn
12m. The centre of the north-facing wall of the central tower has taxing moves to start (6a?), a tricky mantel and no gear.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
E2 5c
13
Grammarian's Face
12m. Start up the right arete (runners to the left) then make awkward moves out left to the mantel on Gwyn.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E1 5b
14
Grammarian's Face Direct
12m. The right-hand arete is tackled direct with bold and precarious moves at half-height.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E2 5b
15
Long John's Eliminate
16m. Climb the arete as for the previous climb but traverse the face on the right to reach a groove in the wall. Climb this...
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5b
16
Long John's Superdirect
14m. A direct line up the face crossing Long Johnís Eliminate and finishing up the top right-hand arete.
 
1 Stars
E3 5c
17
Cannae
16m. The wall left of the hole leads to the groove on the Eliminate.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
E2 5b
18
Long John's Ordinary
14m. The easiest way up the tower. Tackle the left-hand chimney to the notch then continue up the inside arete of the tower via...
 
1 Stars
S 4a
19
Impish
6m. The short arete of the chimney. A spotter or mat is advised.
 
Technical
E1 6b
20
Long Chimney
10m. The prominent tall narrowing cleft.
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
D
21
Inclusion
10m. Shin up the awkward arete on its right-hand side.
 
Pumpy
E1 5b
22
Richard's Revenge
10m. The thin crack is awkward to start, passing an ancient peg scar (tut, tut!) and features excellent jamming above.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
VS 4c
23
Lincoln Crack
8m. The lovely clean-cut crack on the right is sometimes green.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
HVD 4a
  • Latest Comments

    For WHARNCLIFFE

    Just a Minute
    "Have to disagree with just about all of the above. It's certainly not 'hopeless'..." 10/May

    The Crack of Doom
    "I'm a little bulky through the shoulder and chest, I can get one shoulder in and..." 30/Mar

    Sidewinder
    "Not that reachy - my partner is fairly short but had no problem reaching the top..." 06/Aug

    Cannae
    "The other good, non-eliminate, non-wandering line on here, when finished up the ..." 05/May

    Great Buttress
    "The line as described in PGE (I was using the first edition) is clearly wrong. ..." 06/Apr

    The Flue
    "Only hard bit is getting into sentry box. Then a fun squirm. Hard Diff?" 02/Apr

    Desolation Angel
    "agree with all above. looks harder than it is. i would probably say E5, compared..." 13/Mar

    Scarlett's Wall Arete
    "Nice face climbing." 27/Oct

    Rook Chimney
    "A bit polished lower down and not a smooth climb i.e. bitty!" 26/Oct

    Banana Wall
    "agree with brown. E2 5c/6a depending on reach." 19/Oct

    Great Buttress Arete
    "It is possible with some care and attention to place adequate wire protection. ..." 14/Oct

    Easy Groove
    "More a chimney than a groove, though climbed by bridging rather than chimneying...." 07/Sep

    Renrock
    "Very straightforward 5a moves for a consolidated onsight E1 leader. Bouldering h..." 29/May

    Thrown Away
    "A corking route. Very pumpy and the three reachy moves got the heart racing. I'm..." 23/May

    Helping Hand
    "Totally disjointed and a two move wonder, but quite pleasant overall. The finish..." 04/Apr

    Renrock
    "Don't follow the "lack of gear" arguements, as there is gear in the fl..." 30/Oct

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