Adjacent Areas
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Sun and Shade
Up and Down
30 minsWindy
An isolated set of quiet buttresses with a good selection of climbs. It can be green here in winter. Guidebook page 54.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
October Climb 14m. Climb a crack passing a tall jammed block to ledges then finish up the left-hand side of the face above. | S 4a | |
2 |
October Arete Original 12m. Start up October Climb to the jammed block then make tricky moves out to the arete. Finish on the right with Diculty. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Rounded | HVS 5a |
3 |
October Arete 12m. The left-hand arete of the tower has a hard, reachy and poorly protected start until it joins the Original. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy Fluttery | E2 5c |
4 |
Autumn Wall 12m. The face of the tower is climbed past an overlap early on and with thin moves on poor holds at half-height. 3 user comments | 3 Stars Technical | E4 6a |
5 |
Equinox 12m. The right-hand arete features escalating Diculties. | 1 Stars | E3 6a |
6 |
Chockstone Chimney 10m. Climb the blocky crack on the left inside the alcove to a tricky final section - the chocks both help and hinder. | 1 Stars | VD |
7 |
V-Chimney 8m. The right-hand cleft, recognised by its angular shape. | VD | |
8 |
The Candle Snuffer 6m. In the back of the alcove is a narrowing chimney. Climb this to its closure then escape out right. | Graunchy | S 4b |
9 |
Spider Cracks 8m. The left-leaning spidery cracks to a deeper continuation. | Technical | VS 5a |
10 |
Grammarian's Progress 14m. Starting at the through-tunnel climb the arete on its left before pulling round onto the front face. A poorly protected... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Fluttery | VS 4b |
11 |
Grammarian’s Direct 12m. Balance up the lower arete to join the original then finish direct with an awkward mantelshelf. | 1 Stars Fluttery | HVS 5a |
12 |
Gwyn 12m. The centre of the north-facing wall of the central tower has taxing moves to start (6a?), a tricky mantel and no gear. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Crimpy Fluttery | E2 5c |
13 |
Grammarian's Face 12m. Start up the right arete (runners to the left) then make awkward moves out left to the mantel on Gwyn. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Fluttery | E1 5b |
14 |
Grammarian's Face Direct 12m. The right-hand arete is tackled direct with bold and precarious moves at half-height. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | E2 5b |
15 |
Long John's Eliminate 16m. Climb the arete as for the previous climb but traverse the face on the right to reach a groove in the wall. Climb this... | 1 Stars Fluttery | E2 5b |
16 |
Long John's Superdirect 14m. A direct line up the face crossing Long John’s Eliminate and finishing up the top right-hand arete. | 1 Stars | E3 5c |
17 |
Cannae 16m. The wall left of the hole leads to the groove on the Eliminate. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Fluttery | E2 5b |
18 |
Long John's Ordinary 14m. The easiest way up the tower. Tackle the left-hand chimney to the notch then continue up the inside arete of the tower via... | 1 Stars | S 4a |
19 |
Impish 6m. The short arete of the chimney. A spotter or mat is advised. | Technical | E1 6b |
20 |
Long Chimney 10m. The prominent tall narrowing cleft. | 1 Stars Graunchy | D |
21 |
Inclusion 10m. Shin up the awkward arete on its right-hand side. | Pumpy | E1 5b |
22 |
Richard's Revenge 10m. The thin crack is awkward to start, passing an ancient peg scar (tut, tut!) and features excellent jamming above. 2 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | VS 4c |
23 |
Lincoln Crack 8m. The lovely clean-cut crack on the right is sometimes green. 1 user comment | 2 Stars | HVD 4a |