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The Boggart and Byne's Crack

Adjacent Areas
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trad evening sun uphill
20 mins
windy

A couple of imposing towers, the finest on all Burbage, are home to a great set of routes from VS to E10 - so there is something for almost everyone. They receive late evening sun in the summer and can be a useful retreat on hot summer days. Brooks' and Byne's Cracks are sterling efforts from the 1930s and there is a whole selection of more modern test-pieces for the hard core to have a go at. Guidebook page 224.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Chimney Route
8m. A tasty thrutch up the wide flake-crack.
 technicalHVD 4a
2
Simba's Pride
8m. The fearsome arete of the tower is climbed direct to a gripping final move. Stampede, E8 6c was a technically harder...
 2 startechnicalscaryE8 6b
3
Roof Route
8m. A oddly-named route up the wide crack in the slabby angle. Awkward but large gear, big feet and determination all help.
22 user comments
 2 starpowerfulgraunchyVS 4c
4
Gable Route
8m. Climb the flake then the nice balancy edge of the slab above.
5 user comments
 2 starroundedVS 4c
5
Rombald's Staircase
8m. A pleasant ramble up the giant steps.
 1 starM
6
The Gutter
8m. Tackle the steep crack on gruesome jams to a ledge. The corner behind is easier.
 strenuousgraunchyHVS 5b
7
Lethargic Arete
8m. Climb the crack just left of the arete to reach the slabby upper section. Balance up this (poor gear) to the top.
2 user comments
 1 starscaryS 4a
8
Charlie's Crack
10m. Hop into the curving crack from the left and make a tricky pull to easier ground. Step left to finish up slabby rock.
2 user comments
 2 starHVS 5b
9
Life Assurance
8m. Thin smearing up the steepening slab above the curving crack of Charlie’s. Runners in the crack become less and less useful...
6 user comments
 2 startechnicalscaryroundedE6 6b
10
Tower Climb
12m. Climb awkward twin cracks (the left-hand two of three) to a chimney and an easier finish up the right-slanting crack.
1 user comment
 1 starHS 4c
11
Tower Crack
12m. The right-hand crack leads to a ledge. From here a short layback flake on the right gives the protectable crux.
2 user comments
 2 starstrenuousHVS 5a
12
Balance It Is
14m. The stunning left arete of the buttress is approached via Boggart Left-hand and gives short-lived but committing...
 2 startechnicalE7 6c
13
Boggart Left-hand
14m. Gain the thin hanging crack from the left by an extended reach (an oft used side-runner brings it down to E2) then sprint...
5 user comments
 1 starreachyscaryE4 6a
14
The Boggart
14m. The thin (and anciently chipped) crack is technical as far as the first decent hold, and easier above. Often soloed, as...
4 user comments
 2 startechnicalE2 6b
15
Equilibrium
14m. The right-hand arete remains pretty much state of the art. From runners below mid-height, climb the arete by a series of...
8 user comments
 3 startechnicalscaryroundedE10 7a
16
Tower Chimney
14m. The long chimney starts with a thrutch then eases.
1 user comment
 1 stargraunchyVD
17
The Braille Trail
10m. The well named line of pebbles and creases crossing the green north face are followed to the exposed arete (poor...
 3 startechnicalscaryroundedE7 6c
18
Parthian Shot
16m. An awesome route which is still almost as hard as they come. Lurch left out of Brooks' Crack and stack wires behind the...
 3 startechnicalscaryE9 6c
19
Brooks' Crack
14m. The left-hand crack is approached up a clean-cut groove to reach a recess. Steep and insecure moves gain the upper cave...
2 user comments
 2 starstrenuousgraunchyHVS 5a
20
Byne's Crack
14m. The right-hand crack is juggy and excellent giving great jamming and bridging. Don't trip over the edge at the top.
10 user comments
 3 starVS 4b
21
The Searing
8m. Tricky climbing up the left edge of the wall.
 technicalfingeryE3 6a
22
Ron, Ring Home!
8m. Fingery and unprotected climbing up the blank wall left of the arete of The Knock. Fierce and seldom climbed. A right-hand...
 1 starE5 6c
23
The Knock top50
8m. A superb and committing arete with the crux, and some rather battered protection, right at the top. Arguments about the...
18 user comments
 3 starscaryE4 6a
24
Wow!
6m. The short but hairy arete above The Knock.
 technicalscaryE4 6b
25
Keep Crack
10m. The groove leads to a ledge and a steeper continuation corner which is bridged with Diculty.
1 user comment
 1 stargraunchyHVS 5a
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Latest Comments
BURBAGE SOUTH
Movie Star
"An update - the older BMC guides describes moving in from the R (Surprise)and gi..." 13/Jul

Zeus
"Hard work but very worthwhile. Safe as houses - didn't detect any movement in th..." 28/Jun

Roof Route
"Looks pretty tame at first sight put its definately harder than it looks, lay aw..." 28/May

Boggart Left-hand
"I'm 5'9" and found the reach/dyno quite tricky. The repeated swings to the ..." 03/Dec

The Knock
"Did this onsight and thought E4 5c would be fair. pads or no pads, won't make m..." 20/Oct top50

Life Assurance
"First E6! so cant really comment on the grade, great line, not the best conditio..." 10/Oct

Samson
"it looks so much easier on hard grit..." 20/Sep

Nathaniel
"Nasty. Tape up well!" 13/May

Byne's Crack
"Felt pretty tough for VS 4B not sure if that's cause it's a while since I've led..." 09/Dec

The Boggart
"easier to solo but still 6b. really interesting tenuous moves." 06/Nov

Guppy Arete
"The description of this in the Peak Bouldering guide is a way overgraded 7a+ (pr..." 19/Aug

Triglyph
"A nice little route, awkward to get into the sentry box, but once you do its all..." 23/Jul

Life Assurance
"I took the fall from the crux, and was completely fine! I wasn't very close to t..." 21/Jun

Byne's Crack
"Thought this was quite worthwhile. Are you allowed to use the boulder to start ..." 05/Jun

The Knock
"www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJluNO8CmOM" 01/Nov top50

Gable Route
"Definitely not HVS, good gear and a rest before each tricky move." 08/Aug

Brooks' Crack
"Great route!!! should be on everyones grit agenda." 05/Aug

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