The Boggart and Byne's Crack

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Evening sun
20 mins
Uphill

A couple of imposing towers, the finest on all Burbage, are home to a great set of routes from VS to E10 - so there is something for almost everyone. They receive late evening sun in the summer and can be a useful retreat on hot summer days. Brooks' and Byne's Cracks are sterling efforts from the 1930s and there is a whole selection of more modern test-pieces for the hard core to have a go at. Guidebook page 224.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Chimney Route
8m. A tasty thrutch up the wide flake-crack.
 
Technical
HVD 4a
2
Simba's Pride
8m. The fearsome arete of the tower is climbed direct to a gripping final move. Stampede, E8 6c was a technically harder...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E8 6b
3
Roof Route
8m. A oddly-named route up the wide crack in the slabby angle. Awkward but large gear, big feet and determination all help.
22 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Graunchy
VS 4c
4
Gable Route
8m. Climb the flake then the nice balancy edge of the slab above.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Rounded
VS 4c
5
Rombald's Staircase
8m. A pleasant ramble up the giant steps.
 
1 Stars
M
6
The Gutter
8m. Tackle the steep crack on gruesome jams to a ledge. The corner behind is easier.
 
Pumpy
Graunchy
HVS 5b
7
Lethargic Arete
8m. Climb the crack just left of the arete to reach the slabby upper section. Balance up this (poor gear) to the top.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
S 4a
8
Charlie's Crack
10m. Hop into the curving crack from the left and make a tricky pull to easier ground. Step left to finish up slabby rock.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS 5b
9
Life Assurance
8m. Thin smearing up the steepening slab above the curving crack of Charlie’s. Runners in the crack become less and less useful...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Rounded
Fluttery
E6 6b
10
Tower Climb
12m. Climb awkward twin cracks (the left-hand two of three) to a chimney and an easier finish up the right-slanting crack.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HS 4c
11
Tower Crack
12m. The right-hand crack leads to a ledge. From here a short layback flake on the right gives the protectable crux.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
12
Balance It Is
14m. The stunning left arete of the buttress is approached via Boggart Left-hand and gives short-lived but committing...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E7 6c
13
Boggart Left-hand
14m. Gain the thin hanging crack from the left by an extended reach (an oft used side-runner brings it down to E2) then sprint...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E4 6a
14
The Boggart
14m. The thin (and anciently chipped) crack is technical as far as the first decent hold, and easier above. Often soloed, as...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2 6b
15
Equilibrium
14m. The right-hand arete remains pretty much state of the art. From runners below mid-height, climb the arete by a series of...
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Rounded
Fluttery
E10 7a
16
Tower Chimney
14m. The long chimney starts with a thrutch then eases.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VD
17
The Braille Trail
10m. The well named line of pebbles and creases crossing the green north face are followed to the exposed arete (poor...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Rounded
Fluttery
E7 6c
18
Parthian Shot
16m. An awesome route which is still almost as hard as they come. Lurch left out of Brooks' Crack and stack wires behind the...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E9 6c
19
Brooks' Crack
14m. The left-hand crack is approached up a clean-cut groove to reach a recess. Steep and insecure moves gain the upper cave...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
HVS 5a
20
Byne's Crack
14m. The right-hand crack is juggy and excellent giving great jamming and bridging. Don't trip over the edge at the top.
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
VS 4b
21
The Searing
8m. Tricky climbing up the left edge of the wall.
 
Technical
Crimpy
E3 6a
22
Ron, Ring Home!
8m. Fingery and unprotected climbing up the blank wall left of the arete of The Knock. Fierce and seldom climbed. A right-hand...
 
1 Stars
E5 6c
23
The Knock Top 50
8m. A superb and committing arete with the crux, and some rather battered protection, right at the top. Arguments about the...
18 user comments
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E4 6a
24
Wow!
6m. The short but hairy arete above The Knock.
 
Technical
Fluttery
E4 6b
25
Keep Crack
10m. The groove leads to a ledge and a steeper continuation corner which is bridged with Diculty.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HVS 5a
  • Latest Comments

    For BURBAGE SOUTH

    Goliath
    "The top crack can be fisted. Tried to climb it as an offwidth for the full exper..." 02/Jun

    Pebble Mill
    "Soft - easier than The Knock or White Wand - Im only 5 10' aswell." 29/Oct

    Movie Star
    "An update - the older BMC guides describes moving in from the R (Surprise)and gi..." 13/Jul

    Zeus
    "Hard work but very worthwhile. Safe as houses - didn't detect any movement in th..." 28/Jun

    Roof Route
    "Looks pretty tame at first sight put its definately harder than it looks, lay aw..." 28/May

    Boggart Left-hand
    "I'm 5'9" and found the reach/dyno quite tricky. The repeated swings to the ..." 03/Dec

    The Knock
    "Did this onsight and thought E4 5c would be fair. pads or no pads, won't make m..." 20/Oct top50

    Life Assurance
    "First E6! so cant really comment on the grade, great line, not the best conditio..." 10/Oct

    Samson
    "it looks so much easier on hard grit..." 20/Sep

    Nathaniel
    "Nasty. Tape up well!" 13/May

    Byne's Crack
    "Felt pretty tough for VS 4B not sure if that's cause it's a while since I've led..." 09/Dec

    The Boggart
    "easier to solo but still 6b. really interesting tenuous moves." 06/Nov

    Guppy Arete
    "The description of this in the Peak Bouldering guide is a way overgraded 7a+ (pr..." 19/Aug

    Triglyph
    "A nice little route, awkward to get into the sentry box, but once you do its all..." 23/Jul

    Life Assurance
    "I took the fall from the crux, and was completely fine! I wasn't very close to t..." 21/Jun

    Byne's Crack
    "Thought this was quite worthwhile. Are you allowed to use the boulder to start ..." 05/Jun

    The Knock
    "www.youtube.com/watch?v=sJluNO8CmOM" 01/Nov top50

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