Adjacent Areas
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Evening sun
Uphill
20 minsWindy
A couple of imposing towers, the finest on all Burbage, are home to a great set of routes from VS to E10 - so there is something for almost everyone. They receive late evening sun in the summer and can be a useful retreat on hot summer days. Brooks' and Byne's Cracks are sterling efforts from the 1930s and there is a whole selection of more modern test-pieces for the hard core to have a go at. Guidebook page 224.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Chimney Route 8m. A tasty thrutch up the wide flake-crack. | Technical | HVD 4a |
2 |
Simba's Pride 8m. The fearsome arete of the tower is climbed direct to a gripping final move. Stampede, E8 6c was a technically harder... | 2 Stars Technical Fluttery | E8 6b |
3 |
Roof Route 8m. A oddly-named route up the wide crack in the slabby angle. Awkward but large gear, big feet and determination all help. 22 user comments | 2 Stars Strong Graunchy | VS 4c |
4 |
Gable Route 8m. Climb the flake then the nice balancy edge of the slab above. 5 user comments | 2 Stars Rounded | VS 4c |
5 |
Rombald's Staircase 8m. A pleasant ramble up the giant steps. | 1 Stars | M |
6 |
The Gutter 8m. Tackle the steep crack on gruesome jams to a ledge. The corner behind is easier. | Pumpy Graunchy | HVS 5b |
7 |
Lethargic Arete 8m. Climb the crack just left of the arete to reach the slabby upper section. Balance up this (poor gear) to the top. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Fluttery | S 4a |
8 |
Charlie's Crack 10m. Hop into the curving crack from the left and make a tricky pull to easier ground. Step left to finish up slabby rock. 2 user comments | 2 Stars | HVS 5b |
9 |
Life Assurance 8m. Thin smearing up the steepening slab above the curving crack of Charlie’s. Runners in the crack become less and less useful... 6 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Rounded Fluttery | E6 6b |
10 |
Tower Climb 12m. Climb awkward twin cracks (the left-hand two of three) to a chimney and an easier finish up the right-slanting crack. 1 user comment | 1 Stars | HS 4c |
11 |
Tower Crack 12m. The right-hand crack leads to a ledge. From here a short layback flake on the right gives the protectable crux. 2 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5a |
12 |
Balance It Is 14m. The stunning left arete of the buttress is approached via Boggart Left-hand and gives short-lived but committing... | 2 Stars Technical | E7 6c |
13 |
Boggart Left-hand 14m. Gain the thin hanging crack from the left by an extended reach (an oft used side-runner brings it down to E2) then sprint... 5 user comments | 1 Stars Reachy Fluttery | E4 6a |
14 |
The Boggart 14m. The thin (and anciently chipped) crack is technical as far as the first decent hold, and easier above. Often soloed, as... 4 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | E2 6b |
15 |
Equilibrium 14m. The right-hand arete remains pretty much state of the art. From runners below mid-height, climb the arete by a series of... 8 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Rounded Fluttery | E10 7a |
16 |
Tower Chimney 14m. The long chimney starts with a thrutch then eases. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Graunchy | VD |
17 |
The Braille Trail 10m. The well named line of pebbles and creases crossing the green north face are followed to the exposed arete (poor... | 3 Stars Technical Rounded Fluttery | E7 6c |
18 |
Parthian Shot 16m. An awesome route which is still almost as hard as they come. Lurch left out of Brooks' Crack and stack wires behind the... | 3 Stars Technical Fluttery | E9 6c |
19 |
Brooks' Crack 14m. The left-hand crack is approached up a clean-cut groove to reach a recess. Steep and insecure moves gain the upper cave... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy Graunchy | HVS 5a |
20 |
Byne's Crack 14m. The right-hand crack is juggy and excellent giving great jamming and bridging. Don't trip over the edge at the top. 10 user comments | 3 Stars | VS 4b |
21 |
The Searing 8m. Tricky climbing up the left edge of the wall. | Technical Crimpy | E3 6a |
22 |
Ron, Ring Home! 8m. Fingery and unprotected climbing up the blank wall left of the arete of The Knock. Fierce and seldom climbed. A right-hand... | 1 Stars | E5 6c |
23 |
The Knock Top 50 8m. A superb and committing arete with the crux, and some rather battered protection, right at the top. Arguments about the... 18 user comments | 3 Stars Fluttery | E4 6a |
24 |
Wow! 6m. The short but hairy arete above The Knock. | Technical Fluttery | E4 6b |
25 |
Keep Crack 10m. The groove leads to a ledge and a steeper continuation corner which is bridged with Diculty. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Graunchy | HVS 5a |
