The Boggart and Byne's Crack

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Early morning sun
14 mins
Level
Windy

These two superb blocky towers are the finest on the whole of Burbage. Home to a great set of routes from VD to E10, there is something for everyone. They receive late evening sun in the summer and can be a useful retreat on hot summer days. Brooks' and Byne's Cracks are sterling efforts from the 1930s and there is a whole selection of more modern test-pieces for the hard core to have a go at - the old guys could never have imagined what they started.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Mad Llehctim
A good intense problem on the north-facing slab.
 
1 Stars
f6C
2
Lethargic Arete
Climb the crack just left of the arete to reach the slabby upper section. Balance up this (poor gear) to the top.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
S 4a
3
Charlie's Crack
From the boulder lean right and pull into the curving crack then make a tricky layaway/pull to solid jams and easier ground....
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS 5b
4
Life Assurance
Thin smearing up the steepening slab. Runners in the crack become less useful as the sketchy two-move-wonder crux approaches. A...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E6 6b
5
Tower Climb
Climb awkward twin cracks (the left-hand two of three) to a chimney and an easier finish up the right-slanting crack.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HS 4c
6
Tower Crack
The right-hand crack leads to a ledge. From here a short layback flake on the right gives the protectable crux. Nice.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
7
Boggart Left-hand
Gain the thin hanging crack from the left by an extended reach (an oft used side-runner brings it down to E2 ) then sprint to...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
E4 6a
8
Balance It Is
The stunning left arete of the buttress is approached via Boggart Left-hand and gives short-lived but committing laybacking -...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
E7 6c
9
The Boggart
The thin (and anciently chipped) crack is technical as far as the first decent hold, and easier above. Often soloed as placing...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2 6b
10
Equilibrium
Fifteen years on and it remains about as hard as they come. From runners below mid-height, climb the arete by a series of...
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E10 7a
11
Tower Chimney
The long chimney starts with a thrutch then eases a lot.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VD
12
Byne's Flake
The short green flake across the gully.
 VD
13
The Braille Trail
The well-named line of pebbles and creases crossing the north face are followed to the arete (poor hand-placed blade peg and...
 
3 Stars
Technical
E7 6c
14
Dynamics of Change
Bizarre climbing up the leaning face below Braille Trail includes a dyno and the world's hardest mantel. If successful wander...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Dyno
E9 7a
15
Parthian Shot
An awesome route which is even harder than it used to be. Lurch left out of Brooks' Crack (side-runner up and right) to...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
E10 6c
16
Brooks' Crack
The left-hand crack is approached up a straightforward clean-cut groove to reach a recess. Steep and insecure moves gain the...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Graunchy
HVS 5a
17
Byne's Crack
The right-hand crack is juggy and excellent giving great jamming and bridging. Don't topple over the edge at the top.
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
VS 4b
18
The Searing
Tricky climbing up the left edge of the wall.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3 6a
19
Back Down Under
The extension up the rounded arete and face above.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E6 6c
20
Ron, Ring Home!
8m. Fingery and unprotected climbing up the blank wall left of the arete of The Knock. Fierce and seldom climbed. A right-hand...
 
1 Stars
E5 6c
21
The Knock Top 50
A superb and committing arete with the crux, and some rather battered protection close to the top. Often done above pads at a...
18 user comments
 
3 Stars
E4 6a
22
Wow!
The short but h'airy arete above The Knock.
 
Technical
E4 6b
23
Keep Crack
Hard work x2 and multi-pitch. The groove leads to a huge ledge and a steeper continuation corner which is bridged - hard work.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HVS 5a
  • Latest Comments

    For BURBAGE SOUTH

    The Searing
    "Changed from E3 6a to E3 6a *, no votes" 23/Mar

    Goliath
    "The top crack can be fisted. Tried to climb it as an offwidth for the full exper..." 02/Jun

    Pebble Mill
    "Soft - easier than The Knock or White Wand - Im only 5 10' aswell." 29/Oct

    Movie Star
    "An update - the older BMC guides describes moving in from the R (Surprise)and gi..." 13/Jul

    Zeus
    "Hard work but very worthwhile. Safe as houses - didn't detect any movement in th..." 28/Jun

    Roof Route
    "Looks pretty tame at first sight put its definately harder than it looks, lay aw..." 28/May

    Boggart Left-hand
    "I'm 5'9" and found the reach/dyno quite tricky. The repeated swings to the ..." 03/Dec

    The Knock
    "Did this onsight and thought E4 5c would be fair. pads or no pads, won't make m..." 20/Oct top50

    Life Assurance
    "First E6! so cant really comment on the grade, great line, not the best conditio..." 10/Oct

    Samson
    "it looks so much easier on hard grit..." 20/Sep

    Nathaniel
    "Nasty. Tape up well!" 13/May

    Byne's Crack
    "Felt pretty tough for VS 4B not sure if that's cause it's a while since I've led..." 09/Dec

    The Boggart
    "easier to solo but still 6b. really interesting tenuous moves." 06/Nov

    Guppy Arete
    "The description of this in the Peak Bouldering guide is a way overgraded 7a+ (pr..." 19/Aug

    Triglyph
    "A nice little route, awkward to get into the sentry box, but once you do its all..." 23/Jul

    Life Assurance
    "I took the fall from the crux, and was completely fine! I wasn't very close to t..." 21/Jun

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