Adjacent Areas
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Trad
No sun
Uphill
5 minsMore typical Black Rocks fare; good beefy VS cracks interspersed with blank walls and rounded aretes with hard routes, several of which have poor protection. There is less in the way of easier stuff or routes for mild Extreme romping. Guidebook page 370.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Fireworks for the Blind 12m. The green slab left of the crack has a few useful and well-spaced holds, and no runners. | Fluttery | E4 6a |
2 |
Stonnis Crack 10m. This fine crack was left out of the earliest guides as it was thought to be unjustifiably dangerous! Now it gives pleasant... 10 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | HS 4b |
3 |
Discombobulator 20m. Climb the hanging scoop above Stonnis Crack rightwards with great difficulty to flutings (big gear) then crimp through the... | 2 Stars Technical | E5 6c |
4 |
Caught Smiling 20m. Leap from the boulder to a sloper and use a sandy pocket to climb the prow above. A far distant side-runner in Stonnis... | 1 Stars Technical Rounded Fluttery | E6 7a |
5 |
Sand Buttress 22m. Excellent steep climbing up the imposing buttress. Tackle the steepening crack left of the deep gully to its end then hand... 2 user comments | 3 Stars | VS 4c |
6 |
Untoward 18m. The disappearing-crack above the start of Sand Buttress leads to desperate moves up the arete and an easier finish. | 1 Stars Technical | E5 6b |
7 |
Sand Gully 18m. A grubby low-grade route up an impressive feature with a choice of lines. Sandy throughout. The odd Right-hand Exit creeps... | D | |
8 |
Camel Hot 22m. Good small Friends protect this hanging arete featuring hard slapping (or a jump) to sloping break, and then tricky... | 3 Stars Technical Rounded Fluttery | E6 6b |
9 |
The Indirect Start 10m. The groove-to-nowhere runs out at the impossible wall, so escape out right to the stance on Lean Man's Climb. 1 user comment | E2 5c | |
10 |
Lean Man's Climb 22m. Tackle the awkward and slippery elephant's-ear layback (crux) to good ledges; tree belay. Climb the wall leftwards... 8 user comments | 3 Stars Technical | VS 5a |
11 |
Feeding the Pony 10m. The desperate right-hand side of the slab right of Lean Man's Climb has awesome climbing involving four 6c moves in a row.... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Reachy Fluttery | E8 6c |
12 |
The Superstitious Start 10m. From inside the grungy gully, start up the crack of Lean Man's Superdirect to a runner. Cross the left wall above the... | 1 Stars Rounded | HVS 5b |
13 |
Lean Man's Superdirect 1) 5a, 10m. Excellent. Climb the steep, green and awkward groove in the left wall of Fat Man's Chimney to a good stance.2)... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Technical | VS 5a |
14 |
Fat Man's Chimney 18m. The horrendous narrow rift has a traditional grade and is a must for any sport climber who wants to sample real trad! 3 user comments | 1 Stars | D |
15 |
Branch Chimney 6m. The rift branching right from the base of Fat Man's also makes a useful way down. | M | |
16 |
Lean Man's Eliminate 10m. The well-positioned crack in the side wall, starting via the upper section of Fat Man's Chimney, or the tricky slab to its... | 1 Stars Reachy | VS 4c |
17 |
Gomorrah 8m. Tenuous but well protected climbing, up the slim groove right of the arete which gives a short-lived tussle. | Technical | E1 6a |
18 |
The Sprain 8m. Access the hanging ramp from the block and climb the pocketed-wall above. Small Friend protection in the thin crack. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E2 5b |
19 |
Liquid Abs 8m. Gain the good pocket then move left and climb the wall on a poor set of holds and with little for your feet. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical Rounded Fluttery | E5 6b |
20 |
Badmotorfinger 8m. Make a desperate dyno to the mono in the wall, then step slightly left and finish, still with considerable difficulty. | 1 Stars Technical Fluttery | E5 6c |