Sand Buttress and Lean Man's

Adjacent Areas
< The Promontory  |  Finale Slab and Gaia >

Trad
No sun
5 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

More typical Black Rocks fare; good beefy VS cracks interspersed with blank walls and rounded aretes with hard routes, several of which have poor protection. There is less in the way of easier stuff or routes for mild Extreme romping.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Fireworks for the Blind
12m. The green slab left of the crack has a few useful and well-spaced holds, and no runners.
 
Fluttery
E4 6a
2
Stonnis Crack
10m. This fine crack was left out of the earliest guides as it was thought to be unjustifiably dangerous! Now it gives pleasant...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HS 4b
3
Discombobulator
20m. Climb the hanging scoop above Stonnis Crack rightwards with great difficulty to flutings (big gear) then crimp through the...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E5 6c
4
Caught Smiling
20m. Leap from the boulder to a sloper and use a sandy pocket to climb the prow above. A far distant side-runner in Stonnis...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Rounded
Fluttery
E6 7a
5
Sand Buttress
22m. Excellent steep climbing up the imposing buttress. Tackle the steepening crack left of the deep gully to its end then hand...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
VS 4c
6
Untoward
18m. The disappearing-crack above the start of Sand Buttress leads to desperate moves up the arete and an easier finish.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5 6b
7
Sand Gully
18m. A grubby low-grade route up an impressive feature with a choice of lines. Sandy throughout. The odd Right-hand Exit creeps...
 D
8
Camel Hot
22m. Good small Friends protect this hanging arete featuring hard slapping (or a jump) to sloping break, and then tricky...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Rounded
Fluttery
E6 6b
9
The Indirect Start
10m. The groove-to-nowhere runs out at the impossible wall, so escape out right to the stance on Lean Man's Climb.
1 user comment
 E2 5c
10
Lean Man's Climb
22m. Tackle the awkward and slippery elephant's-ear layback (crux) to good ledges; tree belay. Climb the wall leftwards...
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
VS 5a
11
Feeding the Pony
10m. The desperate right-hand side of the slab right of Lean Man's Climb has awesome climbing involving four 6c moves in a row....
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E8 6c
12
The Superstitious Start
10m. From inside the grungy gully, start up the crack of Lean Man's Superdirect to a runner. Cross the left wall above the...
 
1 Stars
Rounded
HVS 5b
13
Lean Man's Superdirect
1) 5a, 10m. Excellent. Climb the steep, green and awkward groove in the left wall of Fat Man's Chimney to a good stance.2)...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
VS 5a
14
Fat Man's Chimney
18m. The horrendous narrow rift has a traditional grade and is a must for any sport climber who wants to sample real trad!
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
D
15
Branch Chimney
6m. The rift branching right from the base of Fat Man's also makes a useful way down.
 M
16
Lean Man's Eliminate
10m. The well-positioned crack in the side wall, starting via the upper section of Fat Man's Chimney, or the tricky slab to its...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
VS 4c
17
Gomorrah
8m. Tenuous but well protected climbing, up the slim groove right of the arete which gives a short-lived tussle.
 
Technical
E1 6a
18
The Sprain
8m. Access the hanging ramp from the block and climb the pocketed-wall above. Small Friend protection in the thin crack.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E2 5b
19
Liquid Abs
8m. Gain the good pocket then move left and climb the wall on a poor set of holds and with little for your feet.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Rounded
Fluttery
E5 6b
20
Badmotorfinger
8m. Make a desperate dyno to the mono in the wall, then step slightly left and finish, still with considerable difficulty.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E5 6c
  • Latest Comments

    For BLACK ROCKS

    Queen's Parlour Gully
    "Great climb, I needed to get my confidence back on grit and this was just right ..." 06/May

    Lone Tree Groove
    "Getting a bit polished now...but good fun all the same. Bit of a grunt onto the ..." 29/Jan

    Lone Tree Gully
    "nice route, plenty of bridging if you want it. I think S4a is about right, altho..." 16/Oct

    Queen's Parlour Slab
    "You are joking right? The traverse has bomber big cams and is 4b, the slab above..." 18/Apr

    Lean Man's Climb
    "In 1960, I was intrigued by the characteristic elephant's ear. I sorted that aft..." 26/Dec

    Gaia
    "yeah the fall at the start of hard grit stopped me even considering doing it, ev..." 25/Aug

    Stonnis Crack
    "Not as hard as it felt at the time :-) A good finish is to go up the arete on t..." 24/Aug

    Blind Man's Crack
    "I'll be honest- I enjoyed this route. Earns it's star, imho." 23/Aug

    Shredded Feet
    "Amazing!" 12/May

    Curving Arete
    "Overall this felt easier and safer than Demon Rib for me. One pad and a good spo..." 03/Dec

    Finale Slab Left-hand
    "there is no gear on this - it's E2, you really don't want to fall off at the top..." 11/Nov

    Edward
    "Where ?" 16/Jul

    Lean Man's Climb
    "Nice route with some well protected bouldery moves typical of this crag. VS 5a ..." 16/May

    The Indirect Start
    "An awkward fight, but well protected by awkward to place gear. Not over quite as..." 15/Feb

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