Stonnis Buttress to Lean Man's Climb

Adjacent Areas
< The Promontory  |  Fat Man's Area >

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More typical Black Rocks fare; good beefy Orange Spot cracks interspersed with desperate blank walls and rounded aretes. There is less in the way of easier stuff though the Stonnis routes are worth a look.
Approach (see map on page 520) - From the West Face walk left to an open bay.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Stonnis Arete Variations
1) 4a, 14m. Start round to the left and climb easy rock to the base of a steep slab formed by a huge leaning block on the...
 
1 Stars
VD
2
Stonnis Arete
A fine climb but very polished in places. Climb the front of the buttress, first right up a slippery groove then left up a...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
HVD
3
The Eighth Fold
The roof and hanging rib. Small gear can be placed in the thin slot out right from the start of Ladykiller Peak.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E6
4
Ladykiller Peak
The tough hanging flake leads to the stump and a delicate finish.
 
Technical
E3
5
Fireworks for the Blind
The scoopy green slab left of the crack has a few useful and well-spaced holds, and no runners.
 E4
6
Stonnis Crack
This fine crack was left out of the earliest guides as it was thought to be unjustifiably dangerous! Now it gives pleasant...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
HS
7
Discombobulator
Climb the hanging scoop above Stonnis Crack rightwards with great difficulty to flutings (a big cam gets in the way a bit) then...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E5
8
Caught Smiling
Leap from the boulder to a sloper and use a sandy pocket to climb the prow above. A far distant side-runner in Stonnis Crack...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E6
9
Sand Buttress
Excellent steep climbing up the imposing buttress. Tackle the steepening crack left of the deep gully to its end then hand...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
VS
10
Untoward
The disappearing crack above the start of Sand Buttress leads to desperate moves up the arete and an easier finish.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5
11
Sand Gully
A grubby route up the rift, with a choice of lines - sandy and often littered with bottles and cans hurled from the cliff top...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
D
12
Camel Hot
Good small cams protect the hanging arete which features hard slapping (or a jump) to a sloping break and then tricky...
 
3 Stars
Technical
E6
13
The Indirect Start
The baffling leaning corner runs out at an impossible wall, so escape right to Lean Man's Climb; a tough cookie.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E2
14
Lean Man's Climb
Tackle the awkward and slippery elephant's-ear layback (crux?) to good ledges; belay. Climb the wall leftwards following the...
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
VS
15
Feeding the Pony
The desperate slab right of Lean Man's has great moves - four of them at 6c in a row. Originally done with a big hex...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E8
  • Latest Comments

    For BLACK ROCKS

    Left Promontory Gully
    "Changed from D 3a to D 3a, no votes" 23/Mar

    Queen's Parlour Gully
    "Great climb, I needed to get my confidence back on grit and this was just right ..." 06/May

    Lone Tree Groove
    "Getting a bit polished now...but good fun all the same. Bit of a grunt onto the ..." 29/Jan

    Lone Tree Gully
    "nice route, plenty of bridging if you want it. I think S4a is about right, altho..." 16/Oct

    Queen's Parlour Slab
    "You are joking right? The traverse has bomber big cams and is 4b, the slab above..." 18/Apr

    Lean Man's Climb
    "In 1960, I was intrigued by the characteristic elephant's ear. I sorted that aft..." 26/Dec

    Gaia
    "yeah the fall at the start of hard grit stopped me even considering doing it, ev..." 25/Aug

    Stonnis Crack
    "Not as hard as it felt at the time :-) A good finish is to go up the arete on t..." 24/Aug

    Blind Man's Crack
    "I'll be honest- I enjoyed this route. Earns it's star, imho." 23/Aug

    Shredded Feet
    "Amazing!" 12/May

    Curving Arete
    "Overall this felt easier and safer than Demon Rib for me. One pad and a good spo..." 03/Dec

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