Birch Tree Wall

Adjacent Areas
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The attractive west-facing walls are the first to be reached and are arguably the cliff's finest feature. A good introduction to Black Rocks with some great classics like Lone Tree Gully and the excellent Birch Tree Wall and its variations. Also there is the awe-inspiring line of Gaia.
Approach (see map on page 520) - Cross the railway line and scramble up the scree to the face.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Curved Crack
The awkward kinked and polished crack has a tricky exit.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HS
2
Kra S'Haon
The crack below the huge block of Gaia is a route to nowhere. The reverse journey is Noah's Ark at the same grade.
1 user comment
 VS
3
Gaia
The stunning hanging groove; brilliant but only for the bold. The technical crux is getting into the groove but is well...
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E8
4
Harder Faster
Gaia's direct finish is harder than its parent and from this one you will definitely hit the ground - have no doubts.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E9
5
Through the K-hole
Start as for Curving Arete but swing round onto the outer face as soon as possible and layback above the huge drop. Good...
 
1 Stars
E7
6
Curving Arete
Hop onto the undercut arete with great difficulty and then layback to easier ground. Unprotected.
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
E5
7
Birch Tree Wall Variations
The left-hand crack leads steeply to a poor rest. Follow the pumpy lowest crack out left to finish passing a useful tree, or...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
HVS
8
Birch Tree Wall
1) 4c, 10m. Climb the thin and polished left-hand crack then move awkwardly right to a blocky groove leading to a...
10 user comments
 
3 Stars
VS
9
Birch Tree Wall Direct
Climb the thin hand-crack into the blocky groove, then follow the original route throughout - a fine varied pitch.
 
3 Stars
Technical
VS
10
Birch Tree Wall Eliminate
From Birch Tree Wall move right, bounce for the break then step back left and undercut for the top. Hard for the short.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E4
11
Demon Rib
The elegant rib is reachy and the landing is poor until the flakes are reached (small cam). Finish up the easier upper arete.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E3
12
Lone Tree Groove
The neat slanting groove is a swine to enter. Climb steeply to its base and then improvise; if all else fails try it on your...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
VS
13
Lone Tree Gully
The deep groove gives steep awkward bridging past bulges.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Graunchy
S
14
Pseudonym
An unprotected rockover gains the slab (easier for the short) then move up to the break (easier for the tall). Continue up the...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E5
15
Black Book Jon
Climb the blunt rib on the wall to a sloping shelf (this is Non Stick Vicar, f7B+). Crozzley slopers lead leftwards to join Fun...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E7
16
The Devil is in the Details
The indirect finish to Pseudonym, up the wall above the break by "the biggest dyno on a gritstone route".
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Dyno
E7
17
Fun Traverse
Hilarious - the pocketed traverse line is followed leftwards with difficulty, passing a useless set of rounded holes. Big cams...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
E4
18
South Gully
The final cleft in the cliff is polished and awkward. Heading left at half-height is South Gully Rib, HS 4b.
3 user comments
 
Graunchy
HVD
19
South Corner
Up the chimney until the flake on the right can be reached. Swing round on this to a harrowing exit. Odd!
 
1 Stars
HVS
20
Bad Hair Day
The old boulder problem up the arete (f6B) to the flakes and a breather. Continue via a solitary good hold to a rounded exit.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4
21
The Runnel
Balance up the slanting groove to a rounded exit. Unprotected but can be highballed at f6C.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E3
22
Slab End
The left-hand chipped and sandy staircase just around the corner. The right-hand version is VD and has a tricky exit.
2 user comments
 D
  • Latest Comments

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    "Changed from D 3a to D 3a, no votes" 23/Mar

    Queen's Parlour Gully
    "Great climb, I needed to get my confidence back on grit and this was just right ..." 06/May

    Lone Tree Groove
    "Getting a bit polished now...but good fun all the same. Bit of a grunt onto the ..." 29/Jan

    Lone Tree Gully
    "nice route, plenty of bridging if you want it. I think S4a is about right, altho..." 16/Oct

    Queen's Parlour Slab
    "You are joking right? The traverse has bomber big cams and is 4b, the slab above..." 18/Apr

    Lean Man's Climb
    "In 1960, I was intrigued by the characteristic elephant's ear. I sorted that aft..." 26/Dec

    Gaia
    "yeah the fall at the start of hard grit stopped me even considering doing it, ev..." 25/Aug

    Stonnis Crack
    "Not as hard as it felt at the time :-) A good finish is to go up the arete on t..." 24/Aug

    Blind Man's Crack
    "I'll be honest- I enjoyed this route. Earns it's star, imho." 23/Aug

    Shredded Feet
    "Amazing!" 12/May

    Curving Arete
    "Overall this felt easier and safer than Demon Rib for me. One pad and a good spo..." 03/Dec

    Edward
    "Where ?" 16/Jul

    Lean Man's Climb
    "Nice route with some well protected bouldery moves typical of this crag. VS 5a ..." 16/May

    The Indirect Start
    "An awkward fight, but well protected by awkward to place gear. Not over quite as..." 15/Feb

    Original Route
    "Erm, this route is amazing, but nowhere near HVD unless you take on the final po..." 16/Sep

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