Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
Uphill
5 minsThe attractive west-facing walls are the first to be reached and are arguably the cliff’s finest feature. A good introduction to Black Rocks with the likes of Lone Tree Gully, the groove of the same name and of course the excellent Birch Tree Wall and its variations. Guidebook page 374.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Curving Arete 12m. Hop onto the horribly-chipped undercut arete with great difficulty and then layback rapidly to easier ground - unprotected... 2 user comments | 3 Stars Fluttery | E5 6b |
2 |
Through the K-hole 12m. Start as for Curving Arete but swing round onto the outer face as soon as possible and layback wildly above a... | 1 Stars Rounded Fluttery | E7 6b |
3 |
Birch Tree Wall Variations 18m. The left-hand crack leads steeply to a poor rest, follow the pump crack out left to finish passing a useful tree or,... 1 user comment | 2 Stars | HVS 5a |
4 |
Birch Tree Wall 1) 5a, 10m. Climb the thin right-hand jamming crack, and awkward blocky groove, to a good stance on the left. Starting up the... 9 user comments | 3 Stars | VS 5a |
5 |
Birch Tree Wall Eliminate 10m. From the stance on Birch Tree Wall, move right, bounce between the breaks, then step back left and undercut for the top.... | Reachy | E4 6a |
6 |
Demon Rib 18m. The elegant, bulging and bold rib is reachy (and the landing is poor) until the flakes are reached (Friend 1). Continue up... 3 user comments | 2 Stars Reachy Technical Fluttery | E3 5c |
7 |
Lone Tree Groove 18m. The attractive, slanting groove is awkward to enter. Climb steeply to its base and then improvise; if all else fails try... 6 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | VS 5a |
8 |
Lone Tree Gully 14m. The deep groove gives steep and awkward bridging past a series of bulges. Well-protected throughout. 3 user comments | 2 Stars | S 4a |
9 |
Pseudonym 16m. Make an unprotected rock-over onto the slab (easier for the short!!) then move up to the break (easier for the tall -... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Technical Rounded Fluttery | E5 6b |
10 |
The Devil is in the Details 16m. The direct finish to Pseudonym, up the wall above the break by "the biggest dyno on a gritstone route". 1 user comment | 2 Stars Reachy | E7 7a |
11 |
Fun Traverse 20m. Some fun! The pocketed traverse-line is gained awkwardly from the slab and followed leftwards with difficulty, passing a... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy Rounded | E4 6b |
12 |
South Gully 8m. The final cleft in the cliff is polished and awkward. 2 user comments | VD 4a | |
13 |
South Corner 8m. Climb the chimney until the flake on the right can be reached. Swing right on this to a harrowing exit. Odd! | 1 Stars Fluttery | HVS 4c |
14 |
Bad Hair Day 8m. The old boulder problem up the arete reaches the flakes and a breather. Continue via a solitary good hold to a rounded... 1 user comment | Technical Rounded | E4 6b |
15 |
The Runnel 8m. Balance up the shallow, slanting groove to a rounded exit. Unprotected and the graffiti is in bounds. 3 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Rounded | E2 6b |
16 |
Slab End 8m. One of the easiest routes on the cliff goes up the chipped, sandy staircase around the corner. This can be done on the... 1 user comment | M | |