Birch Tree Wall Area

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
5 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

The attractive west-facing walls are the first to be reached and are arguably the cliff’s finest feature. A good introduction to Black Rocks with the likes of Lone Tree Gully, the groove of the same name and of course the excellent Birch Tree Wall and its variations. Guidebook page 374.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Curving Arete
12m. Hop onto the horribly-chipped undercut arete with great difficulty and then layback rapidly to easier ground - unprotected...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6b
2
Through the K-hole
12m. Start as for Curving Arete but swing round onto the outer face as soon as possible and layback wildly above a...
 
1 Stars
Rounded
Fluttery
E7 6b
3
Birch Tree Wall Variations
18m. The left-hand crack leads steeply to a poor rest, follow the pump crack out left to finish passing a useful tree or,...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
HVS 5a
4
Birch Tree Wall
1) 5a, 10m. Climb the thin right-hand jamming crack, and awkward blocky groove, to a good stance on the left. Starting up the...
9 user comments
 
3 Stars
VS 5a
5
Birch Tree Wall Eliminate
10m. From the stance on Birch Tree Wall, move right, bounce between the breaks, then step back left and undercut for the top....
 
Reachy
E4 6a
6
Demon Rib
18m. The elegant, bulging and bold rib is reachy (and the landing is poor) until the flakes are reached (Friend 1). Continue up...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Fluttery
E3 5c
7
Lone Tree Groove
18m. The attractive, slanting groove is awkward to enter. Climb steeply to its base and then improvise; if all else fails try...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
VS 5a
8
Lone Tree Gully
14m. The deep groove gives steep and awkward bridging past a series of bulges. Well-protected throughout.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
S 4a
9
Pseudonym
16m. Make an unprotected rock-over onto the slab (easier for the short!!) then move up to the break (easier for the tall -...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Rounded
Fluttery
E5 6b
10
The Devil is in the Details
16m. The direct finish to Pseudonym, up the wall above the break by "the biggest dyno on a gritstone route".
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Reachy
E7 7a
11
Fun Traverse
20m. Some fun! The pocketed traverse-line is gained awkwardly from the slab and followed leftwards with difficulty, passing a...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
E4 6b
12
South Gully
8m. The final cleft in the cliff is polished and awkward.
2 user comments
 VD 4a
13
South Corner
8m. Climb the chimney until the flake on the right can be reached. Swing right on this to a harrowing exit. Odd!
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
HVS 4c
14
Bad Hair Day
8m. The old boulder problem up the arete reaches the flakes and a breather. Continue via a solitary good hold to a rounded...
1 user comment
 
Technical
Rounded
E4 6b
15
The Runnel
8m. Balance up the shallow, slanting groove to a rounded exit. Unprotected and the graffiti is in bounds.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Rounded
E2 6b
16
Slab End
8m. One of the easiest routes on the cliff goes up the chipped, sandy staircase around the corner. This can be done on the...
1 user comment
 M
  • Latest Comments

    For BLACK ROCKS

    Queen's Parlour Gully
    "Great climb, I needed to get my confidence back on grit and this was just right ..." 06/May

    Lone Tree Groove
    "Getting a bit polished now...but good fun all the same. Bit of a grunt onto the ..." 29/Jan

    Lone Tree Gully
    "nice route, plenty of bridging if you want it. I think S4a is about right, altho..." 16/Oct

    Queen's Parlour Slab
    "You are joking right? The traverse has bomber big cams and is 4b, the slab above..." 18/Apr

    Lean Man's Climb
    "In 1960, I was intrigued by the characteristic elephant's ear. I sorted that aft..." 26/Dec

    Gaia
    "yeah the fall at the start of hard grit stopped me even considering doing it, ev..." 25/Aug

    Stonnis Crack
    "Not as hard as it felt at the time :-) A good finish is to go up the arete on t..." 24/Aug

    Blind Man's Crack
    "I'll be honest- I enjoyed this route. Earns it's star, imho." 23/Aug

    Shredded Feet
    "Amazing!" 12/May

    Curving Arete
    "Overall this felt easier and safer than Demon Rib for me. One pad and a good spo..." 03/Dec

    Finale Slab Left-hand
    "there is no gear on this - it's E2, you really don't want to fall off at the top..." 11/Nov

    Edward
    "Where ?" 16/Jul

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