The Promontory

Trad
Sun and Shade
5 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

The huge jutting prow of The Promontory is one of the finest buttresses anywhere on grit and has a suitably superb set of climbs spanning the generations. The devious oddity of Promontory Traverse is a ‘must-do’ and it is worth a quick look at Meshuga before shaking your head and walking away - amazing! Down and right from The Promontory is Stonnis Buttress with its classic lower-grade climbs.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Rope Trick
20m. Traverse the lowest break all the way to the arete by strenuous jamming and little in the way of footholds, then pull onto...
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5c
2
Vikings in a Sea of Sweat
8m. A rarely repeated route up the breaks in the wall above the start of the traverse of Rope Trick.
 
Rounded
E2 5c
3
Longships
14m. Low in the grade for jamming aficionados, others will find it desperate. Traverse the break to where it becomes double...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
Rounded
E2 5b
4
Firebird
16m. Start along the central break until it is possible to climb up to the spike (‘ride-em-cowboy’ for a rest) then finish up...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2 5c
5
Prominent Tory Reverse
1) 5c, 15m. Traverse the highest break out to the spike and make a hard move to reach the belay out on the nose.2) 5c, 15m....
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Rounded
E2 5c
6
Meshuga
24m. This major route follows the blunt overhanging prow, up the front face of The Promontory, above an evil landing. It gives...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
Rounded
Fluttery
E9 6c
7
A Day at the Prom
14m. The beckoning-crack is gained by a wild flop from the other side of the gully (pre-placed and pre-clipped gear) then...
 
Technical
E4 6b
8
Prominence
12m. Climb the side wall, trending left, by a series of long reaches, linking rounded holds, to a final difficult exit -...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Rounded
E3 6a
9
Twisted Smile
8m. From the start of Promontory Traverse, climb up the wall to the contorted mouth, then finish rightwards.
 
1 Stars
Rounded
HVS 5b
10
Promontory Traverse
A classic graunch; well protected and quite bizarre though not too difficult for those used to gritstone weirdness.1) 5b,...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Rounded
E1 5b
11
Right Promontory Gully
24m. The deep rift over a series of big boulders. Surprisingly clean and a good introduction to climbing for the timid.
 
1 Stars
M
12
Stonnis Arete Variations
1) 4a, 14m. Often climbed but never recorded. Start on the left and climb an easy chimney up and left to the base of a steep...
 
1 Stars
VD 4a
13
Stonnis Arete
30m. A fine climb only spoilt by the way it fizzles out below the cliff top. Graded Diff for years! Climb the cracked front of...
7 user comments
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
HVD 4a
  • Latest Comments

    For BLACK ROCKS

    Queen's Parlour Gully
    "Great climb, I needed to get my confidence back on grit and this was just right ..." 06/May

    Lone Tree Groove
    "Getting a bit polished now...but good fun all the same. Bit of a grunt onto the ..." 29/Jan

    Lone Tree Gully
    "nice route, plenty of bridging if you want it. I think S4a is about right, altho..." 16/Oct

    Queen's Parlour Slab
    "You are joking right? The traverse has bomber big cams and is 4b, the slab above..." 18/Apr

    Lean Man's Climb
    "In 1960, I was intrigued by the characteristic elephant's ear. I sorted that aft..." 26/Dec

    Gaia
    "yeah the fall at the start of hard grit stopped me even considering doing it, ev..." 25/Aug

    Stonnis Crack
    "Not as hard as it felt at the time :-) A good finish is to go up the arete on t..." 24/Aug

    Blind Man's Crack
    "I'll be honest- I enjoyed this route. Earns it's star, imho." 23/Aug

    Shredded Feet
    "Amazing!" 12/May

    Curving Arete
    "Overall this felt easier and safer than Demon Rib for me. One pad and a good spo..." 03/Dec

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