The Promontory

Trad
Early morning sun
8 mins
Uphill
Sheltered

The huge jutting prow of the Promontory is one of the tallest buttresses on grit and has a interesting set of climbs; the oddity of Promontory Traverse is a 'must-do' and it is worth a quick look at Meshuga before shaking your head and walking away, suitably stunned. The gloomy northeast-facing side-wall of the Promontory has some good routes though they tend to be green and lichenous for most of the year; when dry there is some fine steep climbing on rounded holds and flaring breaks to be had here.
Approach (see map on page 520) - From the west face, walk left to the towering Promontory.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Left Promontory Gully
The deeply-recessed gully left of the Promontory gives easy scrambling through garbage thrown in from above to a harder exit on...
1 user comment
 D
2
Rope Trick
Traverse the lowest break to the arete by strenuous jamming and no footholds. Lassoing the spike on Promontory Traverse...
 
2 Stars
E2
3
Vikings in a Sea of Sweat
A rarely repeated route up the breaks in the wall above the start of the traverse of Rope Trick.
 E2
4
Longships
Low in the grade for lanky jamming aficionados, others will find it desperate. Traverse the break to where it becomes double,...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E2
5
Firebird
Start along the central break until it is possible to climb up to the spike on Prom Traverse, then finish up the pumpy layback...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2
6
The Bounder
With a pre-flicked rope over the spike, leap the void, latch and climb past the poor pocket then choose a route up the wall.
 E1
7
Prominent Tory Reverse
A counterpoint to the classic traverse gives an alternative view of the buttress with some harrowing positions along the way....
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E2
8
Meshuga
A major route following the blunt overhanging prow, up the front face of the Promontory, above an evil landing. It gives...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
E9
9
Easy Exit
The direct escape from the stance on the nose gives a short pitch in an astounding position.
 
1 Stars
E1
10
A Day at the Prom
The beckoning crack is gained by a wild flop/dyno from the other side of the gully (pre-placed, pre-clipped gear), then sprint...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Dyno
E4
11
Kitkat
Teeter across the green shelf to reach Promontory Traverse then climb the side-wall, by a series of long reaches linking...
 
1 Stars
E3
12
Promontory Traverse
A classic graunch; well protected and quite bizarre though not too difficult for those used to gritstone weirdness.1) 5b,...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
E1
13
Twisted Smile
From the start of Promontory Traverse, climb up the wall to the contorted mouth, then finish direct.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
E1
14
Right Promontory Gully
The deep rift over a series of big boulders. A mild scramble but surprisingly clean and a decent intro to climbing for the...
1 user comment
 M
  • Latest Comments

    For BLACK ROCKS

    Left Promontory Gully
    "Changed from D 3a to D 3a, no votes" 23/Mar

    Queen's Parlour Gully
    "Great climb, I needed to get my confidence back on grit and this was just right ..." 06/May

    Lone Tree Groove
    "Getting a bit polished now...but good fun all the same. Bit of a grunt onto the ..." 29/Jan

    Lone Tree Gully
    "nice route, plenty of bridging if you want it. I think S4a is about right, altho..." 16/Oct

    Queen's Parlour Slab
    "You are joking right? The traverse has bomber big cams and is 4b, the slab above..." 18/Apr

    Lean Man's Climb
    "In 1960, I was intrigued by the characteristic elephant's ear. I sorted that aft..." 26/Dec

    Gaia
    "yeah the fall at the start of hard grit stopped me even considering doing it, ev..." 25/Aug

    Stonnis Crack
    "Not as hard as it felt at the time :-) A good finish is to go up the arete on t..." 24/Aug

    Blind Man's Crack
    "I'll be honest- I enjoyed this route. Earns it's star, imho." 23/Aug

    Shredded Feet
    "Amazing!" 12/May

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