Nosferatu Area

Adjacent Areas
< Dowel Crack  |  Pebble Mill >

Trad
Early morning sun
12 mins
Level
Windy

The tall buttress of Nosferatu is the main attraction here although there is some good bouldering in the vicinity as well, both on the edge, and amongst the blocks below. To the right are some short, action-packed easier routes.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Sorb
Absorbing balancy climbing up the left arete of the buttress with a poor landing leads to a good horizontal break and runners....
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Fluttery
E2
2
Nosferatu
From the fallen block that used to belong to Sorb climb the right-hand arete with cunning (toe and heel hooking) and crimpy...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Dyno
Fluttery
E6
3
Reginald
The narrow chimney gives quality thrutching to a rightwards exit - don't get stuck! Low in the grade.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
VS
4
Nathaniel
The right-hand chimney-crack gets harder with height. Big fists, big cams and a chockstone all help along the way.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
HVS
5
The Knack
The hanging groove is desperate to access unless you have the knack. Easier once the first decent hold has been latched.
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E1
6
Nick Knack Paddywack
From below a flake pull up to the break, traverse left and climb the wall to the top. The short but intense direct start is Old...
4 user comments
 
Reachy
Technical
E2
7
Less Bent
Climb the left-hand side arete to a big horizontal break then stretch for a finish, or move left if you can't reach. Often...
3 user comments
 
Reachy
S
8
Zig-zag
Climb the crescent-shaped crack (tough) to the break then move left to the arete. Move round to finish as for Less Bent.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
VS
9
No Zag
Climb the flake as Zig-zag to the break then move right to gain and battle up the widening hanging crack - a bit full-on!
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
E1
10
Unfinished Symphony
Tackle the short hanging crack by leaping into it from the blocks
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Graunchy
HVS
11
Ribbed Corner
Take the stepped corner on the right to a short bridging groove.
3 user comments
 Diff
12
Left Bannister
Mantel up the face just right of the shallow groove.
3 user comments
 
Fluttery
HS
13
The Staircase
The steep stepped cracks just left of the arete are juggy with good runners and rests after a delicate start.
12 user comments
 
1 Stars
S
14
Confidence of Youth
Layback the elegant angular arete.
2 user comments
 
Fluttery
E3
15
The Drainpipe
The steep groove is a bit of a strenuous tussle - bridging helps.
13 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Graunchy
HS
16
Booby Prize
The short cracked wall to the right has a stopper move.
2 user comments
 
Technical
Crimpy
E3
17
Parson's Crack
Climb the diagonal crack to reach the Pulpit. Finish direct via a mantel - much harder for the short.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Reachy
HS
18
Walker's Pulpit
From the grass bank traverse the steps left to the Pulpit, then exit awkwardly leftwards.
3 user comments
 HVD
  • Latest Comments

    For BURBAGE SOUTH

    Goliath
    "The top crack can be fisted. Tried to climb it as an offwidth for the full exper..." 02/Jun

    Pebble Mill
    "Soft - easier than The Knock or White Wand - Im only 5 10' aswell." 29/Oct

    Movie Star
    "An update - the older BMC guides describes moving in from the R (Surprise)and gi..." 13/Jul

    Zeus
    "Hard work but very worthwhile. Safe as houses - didn't detect any movement in th..." 28/Jun

    Roof Route
    "Looks pretty tame at first sight put its definately harder than it looks, lay aw..." 28/May

    Boggart Left-hand
    "I'm 5'9" and found the reach/dyno quite tricky. The repeated swings to the ..." 03/Dec

    The Knock
    "Did this onsight and thought E4 5c would be fair. pads or no pads, won't make m..." 20/Oct top50

    Life Assurance
    "First E6! so cant really comment on the grade, great line, not the best conditio..." 10/Oct

    Equilibrium
    "I had some spare time after doing the boggart , so I tried the start. Couldnt ge..." 20/Sep

    Nathaniel
    "Nasty. Tape up well!" 13/May

    Byne's Crack
    "Felt pretty tough for VS 4B not sure if that's cause it's a while since I've led..." 09/Dec

    The Boggart
    "easier to solo but still 6b. really interesting tenuous moves." 06/Nov

    Triglyph
    "A nice little route, awkward to get into the sentry box, but once you do its all..." 23/Jul

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