Chocolate Blancmange Wall

Adjacent Areas
< Heart to Heart Wall  |  Left Wall >

Sport
Early morning sun
8 mins
Level
Sheltered

At the far end of the quarry is a large corner with a dirt slope beneath it - the line of Chocolate Blancmange Gully, a muddy scramble and the first route done here in 1982. The ascent required special ice climbing techniques and wellies. Left of the gully is a broken slab with several routes, some of which are two pitches. They are bolted, but there is some loose rock and reaching the base of the routes can be tricky. There are belay bolts in place. The routes are not of great quality, but they are easy and popular.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Sharing Best Practice
An arete in the back left-hand corner of the main quarry above a lot of rubble and grass.
1 user comment
 6a+
2
Barney Rubble
The clean strip on the far left of the slab. Can be split at a belay giving two 5+ pitches.
2 user comments
 
Loose
5c
3
Chauvi's Slab
The next line about 3m right of Barney is a bit better. Again it can be split, making it 5, 5+.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
5c
4
Still Nacht
The centre of the face to the right is even looser than the other routes hereabouts.
 
Loose
5c
5
Trog
35m. The right-hand side of the wall on some very loose rock. It can be split at a belay in a small cave with pitch grades 4,...
5 user comments
 
Loose
5a
6
Neanderthal
Still a bit loose but better since rebolting and seeing a bit more traffic. If you split it the pitch grades are 4, 5.
4 user comments
 
Loose
5a
7
Men at Work
The major groove on the left-hand side of the slab.
1 user comment
 
Loose
5a
8
The Quarrymen
The cleaned face left of Excavator improves with height.
1 user comment
 
Loose
6a
9
Excavator
The line on the left-hand slab gives good climbing, hardest at the top.
9 user comments
 
1 Stars
5c
10
Slab Cake
At the halfway break step left and follow the narrow slab.
2 user comments
 4c
11
Spare Rib
Follow Slab Cake to the break. Step right and climb the rib.
1 user comment
 
Loose
5a
12
The Cake Walk
The next cleaned slab.
1 user comment
 
Loose
4a
13
Christmas Pud
Slightly cleaner than Cake Walk.
 
Loose
4c
14
Sago Slab
The slab to the left of Dream Topping.
1 user comment
 
Loose
4a
15
Dream Topping
Harder than it looks. The slab on its right edge with care needed on the final moves.
1 user comment
 
Loose
4c