Chocolate Blancmange Wall

Adjacent Areas
< Heart To Heart Wall  |  Left Wall >

Sport
Morning sun
Level
8 mins
Sheltered

At the far end of the quarry is a large corner with a dirt slope beneath it - the line of Chocolate Blancmange Gully, a muddy scramble and the first route done here in 1982. The ascent required special ice climbing techniques and wellies. Left of the gully is a broken slab with several routes, some of which are two pitches. They are bolted, but there is some loose rock and reaching the base of the routes can be tricky. There are belay bolts in place. The routes are not of great quality, but they are easy and popular. Guidebook page 74.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Sharing Best Practice
An arete in the back left-hand corner of the main quarry above a lot of rubble and grass.
1 user comment
 6a+
2
Barney Rubble
The clean strip on the far left of the slab. Can be split at a belay giving two 5+ pitches.
2 user comments
 
Loose
5+
3
Chauvi's Slab
The next line about 3m right of Barney is a bit better. Again it can be split, making it 5, 5+.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
5+
4
Still Nacht
The centre of the face to the right is even looser than the other routes hereabouts.
 
Loose
5+
5
Trog
35m. The right-hand side of the wall on some very loose rock. It can be split at a belay in a small cave with pitch grades 4,...
5 user comments
 
Loose
5
6
Neanderthal
Still a bit loose but better since rebolting and seeing a bit more traffic. If you split it the pitch grades are 4, 5.
4 user comments
 
Loose
5
7
Men at Work
The major groove on the left-hand side of the slab.
1 user comment
 
Loose
5
8
The Quarrymen
The cleaned face left of Excavator improves with height.
1 user comment
 
Loose
6a
9
Excavator
The line on the left-hand slab gives good climbing, hardest at the top.
9 user comments
 
1 Stars
Rounded
5+
10
Slab Cake
At the halfway break step left and follow the narrow slab.
2 user comments
 4+
11
Spare Rib
Follow Slab Cake to the break. Step right and climb the rib.
1 user comment
 
Loose
5
12
The Cake Walk
The next cleaned slab.
1 user comment
 
Loose
4
13
Christmas Pud
Slightly cleaner than Cake Walk.
 
Loose
4+
14
Sago Slab
The slab to the left of Dream Topping.
1 user comment
 
Loose
4
15
Dream Topping
Harder than it looks. The slab on its right edge with care needed on the final moves.
1 user comment
 
Loose
4+
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  • Latest Comments

    For HORSESHOE QUARRY

    Men at Work
    "Great entry level multi pitch climb. It was the first multipitch that myself an..." 26/Feb

    Sag Ponir
    "Surprisingly enjoyable!" 01/Oct

    Blade Runner
    "This has been rebolted for a while now - six bolts. Still feels pretty thin hig..." 09/Sep

    Almost There
    "What should be an enjoyable easy route is spoiled by some poor bolt placements a..." 05/Sep

    Supplementary Questions
    "A new route starts up this: Two Flat Whites 19m 6a+ Start up Supplementary Qu..." 12/Aug

    Toilet Humour
    "And worth a flutter symbol as it's not exactly well bolted!" 05/May

    Galening Crack
    "Seemed perfectly reasonable grade and gear wise when I did it in May 2011" 29/Apr

    Like Ice, Like Fire
    "Fully bolted now at about 5+" 29/Apr

    Olive Oil
    "Harder and not as good as He Seems so Sumo with somne strange bolt placements." 17/Apr

    Spectophotometry
    "Isnt it spelt Spectrophotometry ('r' after first 't')" 03/Jan

    50 Bolts to the Gallon
    "It's a poor route and it is, quite rightly, not popular." 20/Jul

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