Adjacent Areas
< Heart To Heart Wall | Left Wall >
Sport
Morning sun
Level
8 minsAt the far end of the quarry is a large corner with a dirt slope beneath it - the line of Chocolate Blancmange Gully, a muddy scramble and the first route done here in 1982. The ascent required special ice climbing techniques and wellies. Left of the gully is a broken slab with several routes, some of which are two pitches. They are bolted, but there is some loose rock and reaching the base of the routes can be tricky. There are belay bolts in place. The routes are not of great quality, but they are easy and popular. Guidebook page 74.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Sharing Best Practice An arete in the back left-hand corner of the main quarry above a lot of rubble and grass. 1 user comment | 6a+ | |
2 |
Barney Rubble The clean strip on the far left of the slab. Can be split at a belay giving two 5+ pitches. 2 user comments | Loose | 5+ |
3 |
Chauvi's Slab The next line about 3m right of Barney is a bit better. Again it can be split, making it 5, 5+. 2 user comments | 1 Stars Loose | 5+ |
4 |
Still Nacht The centre of the face to the right is even looser than the other routes hereabouts. | Loose | 5+ |
5 |
Trog 35m. The right-hand side of the wall on some very loose rock. It can be split at a belay in a small cave with pitch grades 4,... 5 user comments | Loose | 5 |
6 |
Neanderthal Still a bit loose but better since rebolting and seeing a bit more traffic. If you split it the pitch grades are 4, 5. 4 user comments | Loose | 5 |
7 |
Men at Work The major groove on the left-hand side of the slab. | Loose | 5 |
8 |
The Quarrymen The cleaned face left of Excavator improves with height. 1 user comment | Loose | 6a |
9 |
Excavator The line on the left-hand slab gives good climbing, hardest at the top. 9 user comments | 1 Stars Rounded | 5+ |
10 |
Slab Cake At the halfway break step left and follow the narrow slab. 2 user comments | 4+ | |
11 |
Spare Rib Follow Slab Cake to the break. Step right and climb the rib. 1 user comment | Loose | 5 |
12 |
The Cake Walk The next cleaned slab. 1 user comment | Loose | 4 |
13 |
Christmas Pud Slightly cleaner than Cake Walk. | Loose | 4+ |
14 |
Sago Slab The slab to the left of Dream Topping. 1 user comment | Loose | 4 |
15 |
Dream Topping Harder than it looks. The slab on its right edge with care needed on the final moves. 1 user comment | Loose | 4+ |