Flying Buttress

Adjacent Areas
< Beachcomber  |  Malpossessed >

Trad
Afternoon sun
15 mins
Uphill

To the left of the big face of Raven's Buttress is a hidden natural archway with an angular bay to its right. There is a good collection of climbs here, though the best of these are now very polished. Care is required with many of the exits, which are grassy and/or loose.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Gruesome Groove
The not-too-gruesome groove to a choice of exits.
 VS 4c
2
Scorpion
Climb to a niche, then pull right (hard) to the hanging flake. Go up this with difficulty, to reach the easier, but looser...
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
E2 5c
3
The Gymnic
Left of the through-cave, tackle the twin cracks and the bulge to access the interesting groove above. Although highly...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
4
Freedom Slaves
Climb the groove right of The Gymnic to the overhang then go straight through the roof (rumoured to be more solid than it...
 
Technical
Loose
E4 6c
5
Cold Shoulder
Start up Amain, then make an exposed traverse left above the main overhang to finish up the left arete above The Gymnic.
 
Fluttery
E1 5b
6
Amain
The hanging crack right of the cave opening is entered by a tough struggle. Follow the easier corner crack above. Exit left or...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
HVS 5a
7
Russian Roulette
An eliminate following the crack squeezed between Amain and the arete to the right. Finish out on the arete itself.
 HVS 5b
8
Looking at Blue
Another contrived line starting up the thin crack left of Impendant and finishing out on the arete of Russian Roulette.
 
Crimpy
HVS 5b
9
Impendant
A bit of an oddity, a limestone jamming crack that proves to be worthwhile, popular and sustained at the grade.
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
10
Shattered Crack
From the foot of Impendant, step right over the void and move up onto a suspect block. The crack above is less shattered than...
 VD
11
Amnesiacs
Climb the awkward cracks and groove in the south-facing wall to a convenient tree.
 E1 5b
12
Cave Corner
The left corner of the square alcove is approached up the juggy wall. Care is needed with blocky rock and grass at the top.
1 user comment
 
Loose
S 4a
13
Ash Crack
Climb the sustained central crack in the back wall of the alcove. Well glossed and well protected - it eases with height.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4c
14
Hydrolysis
A bit of an eliminate line, though moves are neat. Up the thin cracks and the narrow wall between Ash Crack and Tria.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
E1 5b
15
Tria
The right-hand corner of the alcove is worthwhile, giving enjoyable bridging, marred only by the polished holds. Exit left.
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
HS 4b
16
Beachcomber
20m. Climb the face of the tower and the short crack to the overhang. Step left to pass this then move back right to finish up...
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
17
Cut Loose or Fly
Climb the crack and wall on the right, avoiding the urge to bridge into the groove on the left.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
E3 5c
18
Wilt
Start up the crack of Cut Loose or Fly, then, from good holds, traverse right and climb the desperately faint crack.
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E5 6b
19
Pagan Man
Follow the technical scoop above the Wilt traverse, then the bulge above to easy ground.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5 6b
20
The Wilt Alternative
A fierce direct start to the faint crack; a peg and a thread protect the hardest moves.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
E5 6c
  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Latest Comments

    For RAVENSDALE

    Medusa
    "Chossy first pitch and complete lack of confidence on the super slippy footholds..." 16/Jul

    Via Vita
    "The nest that was on the "tiny" ledge (which is actually quite a respe..." 18/Jun

    Tria
    "This was easy until the top move up the crack to the right" 20/Aug

    Tria
    "Excellent route, easier than it looks (probably HS 4b), and not as polished as t..." 25/Jul

    Tria
    "Better than Ash Crack, less polished and nicer climbing. I cleaned some of the h..." 10/Jul

    Cut Loose or Fly
    "Contrived to avoid stepping into the corner at half height but doesn't really de..." 31/Jul

    Impendant
    "Definitely pump, and with a bit of a hairy top out! I used all my cams and all ..." 14/May

    Ploy
    "polished start but fantastic second pitch" 13/May

    Mephistopheles
    "The crux section has a sustained series of hard moves protected by awkward-to-pl..." 17/Sep

    Purple Haze
    "Very representative of the typical "quality" of mid-grade Peak limesto..." 12/Aug

    Purple Haze
    "E1. Definitely." 11/Aug

    Medusa
    "nesting birds next to the belay stance 2 days ago,thought it was a bit chossy.3 ..." 13/Jun

    Wilt
    "sustained pumpy tech but well protected to a gogarth like topout.superb clean ro..." 30/Apr

    Via Vita
    "A great effort by John in 1960 with one point of aid. The crag was virttually un..." 15/Sep

    Search for comments