Raven's Buttress

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun and Shade
15 mins
Uphill

The main event at Ravensdale is the superb barrel-shaped buttress that juts out towards the cottages and parking place far below. The situations on the cliff are as impressive as might be expected, with superb views out to the west and the cliff catching the evening sun full on.
The downside is the fact that some of the best routes have become very polished over the years and care with the rock is required over much of the cliff. Some of the less edifying experiences here are returning to well-deserved obscurity.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Solitaire
The short crack in the face to the left of Conclusor. Tree belay, scramble off left. Unremarkable and also unpolished.
1 user comment
 HS
2
Conclusor Top 50
A fine route with good climbing and a reachy couple of moves just before easy ground is gained. The best route on the crag -...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
HVS
3
Delusor
1) 5a, 12m. Make a hard (5b?) first move to gain a left-slanting crack/ramp-line then continue to a grassy landing onto a...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS
4
Medusa
The original classic has become polished over the years. It is still worth doing but be prepared for a slippery time. Start...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Loose
VS
5
Hades
It fills a gap but it is unpopular and loose. 1) 4c, 14m. Start 4m right of Conclusor and climb the wall and shallow groove to...
 
Fluttery
Loose
E2
6
Via Vita
A fine finish via the hanging prow out in space is the highlight. Short-lived but thrilling and very exposed.1) 4b, 26m....
7 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E1 5c
7
Via Vita Direct
The striking overhanging groove high on the crag leads from the stance on Medusa straight up to the crux of the normal route,...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E2
8
Mealy Bugs
1) 4c, 20m. Climb the shallow groove with a wide crack just right of the tree at the foot of the face - steeper than it looks -...
 
2 Stars
Loose
VS
9
Mealystopheles
1) 5a, 22m. Start at a shallow groove to the left of the toe of the buttress and climb this and enter the awkward left-facing...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS
10
Bullets
Forges a very direct line up the face, offering some good climbing and a fine finish. Start at the toe of the buttress.1)...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS
11
Mephistopheles
A good climb that starts just left of the toe of the buttress, below an evil-looking hanging flake.1) 5a, 22m. Climb a...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Loose
E1
12
Purple Haze
A fine climb with a good open finish, high on the wall. Start by the thorn tree under a left-facing flake, leading to an...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E1
13
Ploy
The crack and long twisting groove right of the thorn tree.1) 4c, 22m. Climb the groove, then move right and up into a...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Loose
VS
14
Frore
1) 5a, 20m. Start 2m right of Ploy, and climb up to a blank open groove. Follow this delicately, then continue diagonally up...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Loose
VS