Beeston Routes

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Trad
Lots of sun!
12 mins
Level
Sheltered

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
West Wall Climb
A wandering outing up the left flank of the cliff with a bit of a bushwhack early on, although it manages to raise its head...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
2
Enough Time
A right-hand finish to West Wall Climb following the line that Beeston Eliminate should have taken.1) 4b, 25m. Pitch 1 of...
 
Pumpy
HVS 5b
3
Patience
A reasonable start and finish are linked by some rock and a lot of vegetation in the upper half of the first pitch.1) 5b,...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
HVS 5b
4
The Beest
A cracking eliminate with a lot of fine fingery climbing and just a little unsavoury grass to remind you where you are.1)...
4 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E3 6a
5
Principle of Moments
The wall to the right of the upper pitch of The Beest. A worthwhile pitch, although it sees little attention. Step right from...
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
E3 5c
6
The Thorn Top 50
One of the Peak's best limestone climbs and the classic of the crag. A superb central line, with a well-positioned crux. A pull...
11 user comments
 
3 Stars
HVS 5a
7
Flying Doctor
Devious but exciting, especially in its upper reaches.1) 5c, 38m. Climb The Thorn for 12m then move left and up into a...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
E5 6b
8
Double Top
Another devious routes that seeks out difficulties and exposure and finds plenty of both.1) 4b, 28m. Pitch one of The Thorn...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Strong
E4 6a
9
Ivy Gash
Short-lived and unbalanced but it follows a strong natural line.1) 5a, 28m. Take pitch 1 of The Thorn to the chains.2)...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5b
10
Stagnation
From the point where The Thorn heads back left into the gully, climb straight up the pocketed wall to reach a short diagonal...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
11
Nocturne
Follow The Thorn until a traverse leads out right to a ledge (possible stance to the right if required) then climb the face via...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
12
Pocket Symphony
From the ledge, head left to a diagonal break/crack then climb direct up the excellent pocketed wall (threadable surprises...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
E1 5b
13
Deaf Dove
More pocket-pulling though fiercer than most hereabouts. Despite that, the route is quite low in the grade. Don't forget the...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
E2 5c
14
Evensong
The right-hand side of the face gives a fine pitch. Climb the shallow scoop/groove directly above the stance then continue up...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
E1 5a
15
Midnight Mass
A boldish rarely climbed pitch up the right side of the face. Some threads might need to be (re)placed. Climb the right-hand...
 
Crimpy
Fluttery
E3 5c
16
The Beesting
A huge leap gains a hole and exciting sideways climbing.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
8a
17
The Beeston Bomber
Very reachy climbing through the roof right of centre.
 
2 Stars
Reachy
8a+
18
666
The original line here with fierce pocket climbing.
 
2 Stars
Technical
7c+
19
Beast It!
A short line up the bulge on the right.
 
Technical
7b
20
Pat-trick
Reachy moves in and out of the hanging niche.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
E4 6b
21
Central Wall
An amenable classic taking a good line up the smooth-looking wall on the right-hand side of the cliff. Scramble up grubby...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
VS 4b
22
Catharsis
An eliminate that ultimately proves a worthwhile experience. From Central Wall, climb rightwards via a bulge to a rest in a...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3 5c
23
Black Grub
The black streak running down the right-hand side of Central Wall is a fingery classic. Follow Central Wall then move right to...
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
E3 5b
24
Cleo's Mood
Makes the most of the rock to the right of Black Grub, though it is eventually forced left in search of easier ground to join...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5 6a
25
The Fly
From the start of Central Wall, climb rightwards to enter the shallow left-trending groove and follow it to where it fizzles...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E3 6a
26
The Web
The climbing on offer is rather overshadowed by the jungle crossed. Follow The Fly to where it steepens, then swing out right...
1 user comment
 HVS 5a
27
The Spider
Devious, but interesting and worthwhile; good rope-work is a must. Follow The Fly until it is possible to traverse the wall to...
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
28
Solution Pollution
Short, but not without interest. Start left of the ivy and climb the steep pocketed wall until forced right into The Spider....
2 user comments
 
Crimpy
E1 5b
29
Majolica
Good fun and almost a sport route at about 6b if you clip gear on the previous route. Climb the groove past some threadable...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5c
30
Faience
More Black Country butchness. Climb the arete of the cave to steeper terrain. Stretch up this to reach a groove, pull over the...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
E4 6a
31
Budgie
Steep and powerful climbing up the edge of the cave of Bertram's Chimney. Start inside the cleft and climb for 10m, then swing...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
E4 6a
32
Honoray Buoux
Continues where Budgie escapes left. From halfway along its traverse, blast up the leaning prow on two-finger pockets until a...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
7c
33
Bertram's Chimney
A smelly experience, but taking in some impressive rock. The big diagonal rift on the right-hand side of the cliff is climbed...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
34
Gary Gobstopper
Makes the most of the right-hand wall of the chimney. Climb via a couple of disjointed and slightly totty grooves. Above the...
1 user comment
 
Loose
HVS 5a
35
Beeston Eliminate
The long rising-diagonal, and highest of the three girdles, is one of the major lines on the cliff and offers a superb outing...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
HVS 5a
36
Lord of the Dance
The middle girdle offers a lot of fine fingery climbing with a sting-in-the-tail crux. Start as for Beeston Eliminate.1)...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
E3 6a
37
Perforation
The lowest girdle is a long trip with a fair bit of vegetated ledge rambling early on but it improves as the miles roll by....
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
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  • Latest Comments

    For BEESTON TOR

    Central Wall
    "8 years on from the last couple of comments, I can report that the route is stil..." 04/Sep

    Lord of the Dance
    "Well worthwhile. Pitch 1 climbed from the path is more like 30m and belays at ..." 03/Sep

    West Wall Climb
    "Excellent route. Too much vegetation and earth for 3 stars but maybe just about ..." 03/Oct

    Black Grub
    "We did Evensong and Ivy Gash and then abbed down to the belay. Thought the route..." 12/Aug

    Bertram's Chimney
    "Did this on Saturday (early July). The exit to the top of the crag is very overg..." 13/Jul

    The Web
    "Seconded this today. It is not reasonable to grade this HVS, since, while the r..." 26/Sep

    Black Grub
    "Did this yesterday and the "path" across from The Thorn gearing up spo..." 30/Jun

    Solution Pollution
    "As of July 2008 this option is still possible and not at all overgrown - a pleas..." 04/Oct

    Majolica
    "To make it 6b+ I suggest you would need to clip the thread to the left after the..." 01/Oct

    The Thorn
    "The first pitch is just a way of getting to... The second pitch which is very n..." 06/Aug top50

    Beeston Eliminate
    "This is pretty tough for the grade and easy to get slightly off route making it ..." 05/Aug

    Black Grub
    "Magificent, as good as any bit of pocket pulling you'd find on the Continent. Cu..." 19/May

    Budgie
    "Pegs are old, but a good in-situ thread on on the left protects the crux." 23/Apr

    Evensong
    "Not much between this and Pocket Symphony, gear is okay for the most." 04/Feb

    Pocket Symphony
    "Placing the threads is the hardest part, closely followed by trusting them." 05/Nov

    Pocket Symphony
    "I thought the gear was utterly shit for the most part. Most of the threads are ..." 13/Oct

    The Beest
    "Grading seemed correct to me - Both p1 and p2 would be trivial if you have a lon..." 27/Jun

    Central Wall
    "The scramble from the base of the chimney is worth roping up for especially if i..." 12/Dec

    The Beest
    "I think the grading is correct and unlike many on Beeston not a bit soft. Though..." 21/Sep

    Catharsis
    "This was climbed from the stance below Evensong (was thread belay now chain in p..." 19/Sep

    West Wall Climb
    "Excellent. Very few routes in the Peak provide this sort of position/exposure at..." 21/Jul

    The Beest
    "The description in the guide is correct for pitch 1 of the Beest. The variation ..." 21/Jul

    The Beest
    "The description in the guide is wrong- pitch 1 goes left of Patience passing twi..." 21/Jul

    Stagnation
    "Clean rock(June 2005), solid VS 4c, definately worthy of a star or even two when..." 29/Jun

    Central Wall
    "Not sure how a dirty, grassy route gets 3 stars, worth doing if you are bored, w..." 22/Jun

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