Adjacent Areas
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Lots of sun!
Level
15 minsThe right-hand side of the cliff has some worthwhile climbs, though the best of these are quite hard. The clean wall of Black Grub is an immaculate classic with some hard companions on either side. The wall immediately left of Bertram's Chimney is steeper with some good routes but sadly only short-lived. This area of the cliff is normally quieter than the rest of the place. Guidebook page 294.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Central Wall An amenable classic taking a good line up the smooth-looking wall on the right-hand side of the cliff. Scramble up grubby... 2 user comments | 3 Stars | VS 4b |
2 |
Catharsis An eliminate that ultimately proves a worthwhile experience. From Central Wall, climb rightwards via a bulge to a rest in a... 1 user comment | 1 Stars Technical | E3 5c |
3 |
Black Grub The black streak running down the right-hand side of Central Wall is a fingery classic. Follow Central Wall then move right to... 8 user comments | 3 Stars Crimpy | E3 5b |
4 |
Cleo's Mood Makes the most of the rock to the right of Black Grub, though it is eventually forced left in search of easier ground to join... | 1 Stars Technical | E5 6a |
5 |
The Fly From the start of Central Wall, climb rightwards to enter the shallow left-trending groove and follow it to where it fizzles... | 2 Stars Technical Crimpy | E3 6a |
6 |
The Web The climbing on offer is rather overshadowed by the jungle crossed. Follow The Fly to where it steepens, then swing out right... 1 user comment | HVS 5a | |
7 |
The Spider Devious, but interesting and worthwhile; good rope-work is a must. Follow The Fly until it is possible to traverse the wall to... | 1 Stars | HVS 5a |
8 |
Solution Pollution Short, but not without interest. Start left of the ivy and climb the steep pocketed wall until forced right into The Spider.... 2 user comments | Crimpy | E1 5b |
9 |
Majolica Good fun and almost a sport route at about 6b if you clip gear on the previous route. Climb the groove past some threadable... 5 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | E3 5c |
10 |
Faience More Black Country butchness. Climb the arete of the cave to steeper terrain. Stretch up this to reach a groove, pull over the... | 1 Stars Reachy Crimpy | E4 6a |
11 |
Budgie Steep and powerful climbing up the edge of the cave of Bertram's Chimney. Start inside the cleft and climb for 10m, then swing... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Reachy Pumpy | E4 6a |
12 |
Honoray Buoux Continues where Budgie escapes left. From halfway along its traverse, blast up the leaning prow on two-finger pockets until a... | 2 Stars Reachy Pumpy | 7c |
13 |
Bertram's Chimney A smelly experience, but taking in some impressive rock. The big diagonal rift on the right-hand side of the cliff is climbed... 2 user comments | 1 Stars | VD |
14 |
Gary Gobstopper Makes the most of the right-hand wall of the chimney. Climb via a couple of disjointed and slightly totty grooves. Above the... 1 user comment | Loose | HVS 5a |
