Central Wall & Bertram's Chimney

Adjacent Areas
< Ivy Gash  |  The Girdles >

Trad
Lots of sun!
Level
15 mins
Sheltered

The right-hand side of the cliff has some worthwhile climbs, though the best of these are quite hard. The clean wall of Black Grub is an immaculate classic with some hard companions on either side. The wall immediately left of Bertram's Chimney is steeper with some good routes but sadly only short-lived. This area of the cliff is normally quieter than the rest of the place. Guidebook page 294.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Central Wall
An amenable classic taking a good line up the smooth-looking wall on the right-hand side of the cliff. Scramble up grubby...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
VS 4b
2
Catharsis
An eliminate that ultimately proves a worthwhile experience. From Central Wall, climb rightwards via a bulge to a rest in a...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3 5c
3
Black Grub
The black streak running down the right-hand side of Central Wall is a fingery classic. Follow Central Wall then move right to...
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
E3 5b
4
Cleo's Mood
Makes the most of the rock to the right of Black Grub, though it is eventually forced left in search of easier ground to join...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5 6a
5
The Fly
From the start of Central Wall, climb rightwards to enter the shallow left-trending groove and follow it to where it fizzles...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E3 6a
6
The Web
The climbing on offer is rather overshadowed by the jungle crossed. Follow The Fly to where it steepens, then swing out right...
1 user comment
 HVS 5a
7
The Spider
Devious, but interesting and worthwhile; good rope-work is a must. Follow The Fly until it is possible to traverse the wall to...
 
1 Stars
HVS 5a
8
Solution Pollution
Short, but not without interest. Start left of the ivy and climb the steep pocketed wall until forced right into The Spider....
2 user comments
 
Crimpy
E1 5b
9
Majolica
Good fun and almost a sport route at about 6b if you clip gear on the previous route. Climb the groove past some threadable...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E3 5c
10
Faience
More Black Country butchness. Climb the arete of the cave to steeper terrain. Stretch up this to reach a groove, pull over the...
 
1 Stars
Reachy
Crimpy
E4 6a
11
Budgie
Steep and powerful climbing up the edge of the cave of Bertram's Chimney. Start inside the cleft and climb for 10m, then swing...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
E4 6a
12
Honoray Buoux
Continues where Budgie escapes left. From halfway along its traverse, blast up the leaning prow on two-finger pockets until a...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
7c
13
Bertram's Chimney
A smelly experience, but taking in some impressive rock. The big diagonal rift on the right-hand side of the cliff is climbed...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
14
Gary Gobstopper
Makes the most of the right-hand wall of the chimney. Climb via a couple of disjointed and slightly totty grooves. Above the...
1 user comment
 
Loose
HVS 5a
  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Latest Comments

    For BEESTON TOR

    Central Wall
    "8 years on from the last couple of comments, I can report that the route is stil..." 04/Sep

    Lord of the Dance
    "Well worthwhile. Pitch 1 climbed from the path is more like 30m and belays at ..." 03/Sep

    West Wall Climb
    "Excellent route. Too much vegetation and earth for 3 stars but maybe just about ..." 03/Oct

    Black Grub
    "We did Evensong and Ivy Gash and then abbed down to the belay. Thought the route..." 12/Aug

    Bertram's Chimney
    "Did this on Saturday (early July). The exit to the top of the crag is very overg..." 13/Jul

    The Web
    "Seconded this today. It is not reasonable to grade this HVS, since, while the r..." 26/Sep

    Black Grub
    "Did this yesterday and the "path" across from The Thorn gearing up spo..." 30/Jun

    Solution Pollution
    "As of July 2008 this option is still possible and not at all overgrown - a pleas..." 04/Oct

    Majolica
    "To make it 6b+ I suggest you would need to clip the thread to the left after the..." 01/Oct

    The Thorn
    "The first pitch is just a way of getting to... The second pitch which is very n..." 06/Aug top50

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