Pinnacle Area

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill
5 mins

The left-hand side of the cliff has an excellent collection of lower-grade climbs on quality rock. There is the occasional loose block and belaying at the top of the cliff requires care. Guidebook page 118.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Double Crack
4m. The wide fissure becomes parallel cracks and has interesting moves passing the small beak.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
2
The Arete
4m. The slabby arete is short and sweet. A side-runner may help the timid and a small Friend is useful just below the top.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
HS 4b
3
Crack 1
6m. The left-hand groove.
3 user comments
 D
4
Crack 2
6m. The central cluster of cracks.
3 user comments
 D
5
Crack 3
6m. ..and the right-hand fissure.
1 user comment
 D
6
Pinnacle Crack
6m. Climb the left-hand wall and the wide crack (awkward to reach) then step left to the crack in the wall.
3 user comments
 VD
7
Pinnacle Arete
6m. The outside edge of the pinnacle has a bold-feeling start. Be warned, the top block moves. Step left or right to finish.
3 user comments
 VD
8
Sheltered Crack
6m. Surprisingly the crack behind the pinnacle is not sheltered from the west wind, though it is steep and well-protected.
 
1 Stars
VD
9
Bow Crack
6m. Take the thin right-hand branch to gain a block (crux) and a steep finish. Avoiding the bridging start (and perhaps...
2 user comments
 HVD 3c
10
Slanting Crack
6m. Climb the crack to a groove with tricky moves to get past the big triangular chockstone and up the final corner.
3 user comments
 S 4a
11
Overhanging Chockstone Crack
8m. Climb past the right-hand side of the huge chockstone using holds on the right to gain the upper crack. Easier than it...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
VD
12
The Fifth Horseman
8m. Gallop up the narrow wall just right.
6 user comments
 
Technical
HVS 5a
13
V-Corner
8m. An awkward thrutch or left-facing layback leads to the ledge and a finish up the easier right-hand crack.
 S 4b
14
Thin Cracks
8m. The thin crack to the ledge (hard until the footholds start to arrive) and then select a way on to the cliff top - see...
2 user comments
 
Technical
VS 5a
15
Muscle Crack
8m. The wider central crack to a choice of (harder) finishes.
3 user comments
 VD
16
V Corner
8m. Precise description to follow.
 S 4a
17
Bloody/Block Cracks
8m. Either fissure to the recess and the flake crack above.
1 user comment
 S 4a
18
The Nose
12m. Climb leftwards out of the recess (wide bridging?) to a slot then step back right onto the top of the overhang and climb...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
VS 4b
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For CASTLE NAZE

    Syringe Benefit
    "Nice climbing, and looked much cleaner than Morocc'n Roll (which had weeds growi..." 20/May

    Scoop Face Direct
    "Prob E1 5C due to polish low down. Crux rockover has good holds - less so for ha..." 16/Sep

    Pod Crack
    "Definitely E2 6a" 03/Jul

    Ledgeway
    "Safe as houses and tough 5b" 09/May

    Morocc'n Roll
    "HVS 5b" 09/May

    Muscle Crack
    "Listed as Severe in the 2009 edition of Western Grit. The top was definately a ..." 04/May

    Nozag
    "Probably the best route at the crag, but would only get one star elsewhere. Low..." 28/Aug

    Combs Climb
    "Avoiding holds in the routes to the left or right is nie-on impossible and would..." 10/Aug

    Slanting Crack
    "Definitely HVD at most." 04/Jun

    Fat Man's Chimney
    "Excellent fun on a day of howling gales & sleet. The most sheltered route on..." 01/Nov

    Keep Arete
    "That explains why I couldn't find any thread on saturday. Managed to get a dodgy..." 02/Oct

    Studio
    "I attempted this in the rain. Clipped into the stuck nut and stuck cam, went up..." 30/Sep

    Central Tower
    "Getting into the upper groove is quite exciting when soloing! Seemed to be plen..." 11/Sep

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