Pinnacle Area

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Trad
Afternoon sun
5 mins
Uphill

The left-hand side of the cliff has an excellent collection of lower-grade climbs on quality rock. There is the occasional loose block and belaying at the top of the cliff requires care.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Double Crack
4m. The wide fissure becomes parallel cracks and has interesting moves passing the small beak.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
2
The Arete
4m. The slabby arete is short and sweet. A side-runner may help the timid and a small Friend is useful just below the top.
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
HS 4b
3
Crack 1
6m. The left-hand groove.
3 user comments
 D
4
Crack 2
6m. The central cluster of cracks.
3 user comments
 D
5
Crack 3
6m. ..and the right-hand fissure.
1 user comment
 D
6
Pinnacle Crack
6m. Climb the left-hand wall and the wide crack (awkward to reach) then step left to the crack in the wall.
3 user comments
 VD
7
Pinnacle Arete
6m. The outside edge of the pinnacle has a bold-feeling start. Be warned, the top block moves. Step left or right to finish.
3 user comments
 VD
8
Sheltered Crack
6m. Surprisingly the crack behind the pinnacle is not sheltered from the west wind, though it is steep and well-protected.
 
1 Stars
VD
9
Bow Crack
6m. Take the thin right-hand branch to gain a block (crux) and a steep finish. Avoiding the bridging start (and perhaps...
2 user comments
 HVD 3c
10
Slanting Crack
6m. Climb the crack to a groove with tricky moves to get past the big triangular chockstone and up the final corner.
3 user comments
 S 4a
11
Overhanging Chockstone Crack
8m. Climb past the right-hand side of the huge chockstone using holds on the right to gain the upper crack. Easier than it...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
VD
12
The Fifth Horseman
8m. Gallop up the narrow wall just right.
6 user comments
 
Technical
HVS 5a
13
V-Corner
8m. An awkward thrutch or left-facing layback leads to the ledge and a finish up the easier right-hand crack.
 S 4b
14
Thin Cracks
8m. The thin crack to the ledge (hard until the footholds start to arrive) and then select a way on to the cliff top - see...
2 user comments
 
Technical
VS 5a
15
Muscle Crack
8m. The wider central crack to a choice of (harder) finishes.
3 user comments
 VD
16
V Corner
8m. Precise description to follow.
 S 4a
17
Bloody/Block Cracks
8m. Either fissure to the recess and the flake crack above.
1 user comment
 S 4a
18
The Nose
12m. Climb leftwards out of the recess (wide bridging?) to a slot then step back right onto the top of the overhang and climb...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Fluttery
VS 4b
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For CASTLE NAZE

    Syringe Benefit
    "Nice climbing, and looked much cleaner than Morocc'n Roll (which had weeds growi..." 20/May

    Scoop Face Direct
    "Prob E1 5C due to polish low down. Crux rockover has good holds - less so for ha..." 16/Sep

    Pod Crack
    "Definitely E2 6a" 03/Jul

    Ledgeway
    "Safe as houses and tough 5b" 09/May

    Morocc'n Roll
    "HVS 5b" 09/May

    Muscle Crack
    "Listed as Severe in the 2009 edition of Western Grit. The top was definately a ..." 04/May

    Nozag
    "Probably the best route at the crag, but would only get one star elsewhere. Low..." 28/Aug

    Combs Climb
    "Avoiding holds in the routes to the left or right is nie-on impossible and would..." 10/Aug

    Slanting Crack
    "Definitely HVD at most." 04/Jun

    Fat Man's Chimney
    "Excellent fun on a day of howling gales & sleet. The most sheltered route on..." 01/Nov

    Keep Arete
    "That explains why I couldn't find any thread on saturday. Managed to get a dodgy..." 02/Oct

    Studio
    "I attempted this in the rain. Clipped into the stuck nut and stuck cam, went up..." 30/Sep

    Central Tower
    "Getting into the upper groove is quite exciting when soloing! Seemed to be plen..." 11/Sep

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