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Afternoon sun
Uphill
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The central part of the cliff has its best known feature climbed by its most famous route; Scoop Face. This was a test-piece in years gone by and the eroding ground and polished holds mean that it is still no push-over 90 years on. Guidebook page 120.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Keep Arete 12m. The steep left arete of the buttress is climbed passing the sad remains of a small thread at half-height. Delicate and... 8 user comments | 2 Stars Fluttery | VS 4b |
2 |
Scoop Direct 12m. Climb steeply into the scoop then balance up its left edge using a thin crack before finishing straight up or rightwards... 5 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | HVS 5b |
3 |
Scoop Face Top 50 12m. The classic of the crag. Using glassy slopers reach a good hold (5b for the short) and attain a standing position... 22 user comments | 3 Stars Technical Fluttery | HVS 5a |
4 |
Scoop Face Direct 10m. Climb left from the block with difficulty (5b for the tall), up the wall and into the centre of The Scoop via a good... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Strong | HVS 5c |
5 |
Scoop Wall 10m. Climb the steep wall on spaced holds to reach the rightÐhand edge of The Scoop. Jig left then right to finish, neatly... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Crimpy | E1 5b |
6 |
Footstool Left 8m. The wide crack that passes to the left of the tall tooth is a bit of a struggle at the bottom and manages to feel rather... 2 user comments | S 4a | |
7 |
Piano Stool 10m. Laying away up the steep front face of the tooth is a bit artificial; if successful continue up the arete above. | Technical | HVS 5b |
8 |
Footstool Right 8m. The oft-green groove to the right of the tooth has good holds and good protection and is worth doing when dry. | 1 Stars | HVD 4a |
9 |
Layback 8m. The pleasant flake and groove above require a slightly blinkered approach, though the moves are good enough. | VD | |
10 |
Combs Climb 8m. The thin crack throughout. A good sustained micro-route though avoiding a foot in the previous climb might be difficult. 1 user comment | 1 Stars Crimpy | S 4a |
11 |
Staircase 8m. The obviously-named feature leads left then right to a finish up the groove just to the right of the previous route. 1 user comment | HVD | |
12 |
Come on Eileen 10m. The narrow face right of the Scoop to a ledge then follow the arete on the left passing an odd hole. | E2 5c | |