North Quarry

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Evening sun
12 mins
Uphill

Although not the prettiest of settings there are a few worthwhile routes in this gloomy recess, best done on high summer evenings when the greenery recedes, the place dries out and the sun floods in filling it with golden light. In these conditions an ascent of Fox House Flake or Zeus will be memorable experiences and not greasy battles. The climbs on the outer slab, including the classic of Millwheel Wall, come into condition rather more often.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Zeus
12m. A pumpy number up the parallel cracks splitting the smooth wall. Best laybacked rapidly to a jugs and a tricky exit.
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E2 5b
2
Fagus Sylvatica
12m. The outrageously bold and technical leaning arete.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E8 7a
3
Hades
12m. The slanting V-shaped groove gives a well protected battle that is a complete nightmare if at all greasy, and it always...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
E1 5c
4
Fox House Flake
14m. A pleasant diagonal crack leads rightwards, usually by a hand traverse, to a steeper finale up the ledgy wall.
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4b
5
The Cock
12m. The cheeky groove on the right is steep and technical but soon eases. Join and finish up Fox House Flake.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
VS 5a
6
Perched Block Route
12m. Climb the groove past the block to a shelving ledge then step right and climb the bitty groove and arete with care.
 
Rounded
Loose
HVS 4c
7
Coldest Crack
14m. In the back wall of the quarry is a thin crack, green for 50 weeks of most years. If you find it in condition, get it...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
E2 5c
8
Millwheel Wall
12m. The blunt arete has a slippery start then climb the slab trending rightwards, a good test of footwork, to better holds,...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
E1 5b
9
Dunkley's Eliminate
12m. Mantelshelf onto the ledge from the 'Flintstone's spare-wheel' then climb the left arete which has good runners and holds....
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
10
Pretzel Logic
12m. A counter-diagonal to MWW is fingery and unprotected.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
E3 6a
11
Burssola
8m. The thin crack in the shady north-facing wall is more stubborn than it looks. Fortunately the gear is good.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For BURBAGE SOUTH

    Goliath
    "The top crack can be fisted. Tried to climb it as an offwidth for the full exper..." 02/Jun

    Pebble Mill
    "Soft - easier than The Knock or White Wand - Im only 5 10' aswell." 29/Oct

    Movie Star
    "An update - the older BMC guides describes moving in from the R (Surprise)and gi..." 13/Jul

    Zeus
    "Hard work but very worthwhile. Safe as houses - didn't detect any movement in th..." 28/Jun

    Roof Route
    "Looks pretty tame at first sight put its definately harder than it looks, lay aw..." 28/May

    Boggart Left-hand
    "I'm 5'9" and found the reach/dyno quite tricky. The repeated swings to the ..." 03/Dec

    The Knock
    "Did this onsight and thought E4 5c would be fair. pads or no pads, won't make m..." 20/Oct top50

    Life Assurance
    "First E6! so cant really comment on the grade, great line, not the best conditio..." 10/Oct

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