North Quarry

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Early morning sun
8 mins
Level
Seepage
Sheltered

A gloomy quarry with a few decent routes best done on high summer evenings. When the sun is flooding in Fox House Flake or Zeus will be memorable experiences and not greasy battles. The outer slab, including the classic Millwheel Wall, comes into condition more often. The often-wet wall at the back of the quarry is now home to a set of technical wall climbs that are rarely in condition.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Great Flake Route
A mini-expedition starting on up a tough chimney then a ramble along the crest of the flake with an optional belay on the way....
 
Graunchy
VD
2
Zeus
A surprisingly pumpy route up the parallel cracks in the smooth wall. Best laybacked rapidly to jugs and a tricky shelving...
8 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E2
3
Fagus Sylvatica
The outrageously bold and technical arete is a "real beech".
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E8
4
Hades
The slanting V-shaped groove gives a well-protected battle that is a complete nightmare if at all greasy, and it nearly always...
5 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E1
5
Fox House Flake
A pleasant diagonal crack leads, by a hand-traverse or tiptoeing, to a steeper finale up the ledgy wall. Mild but often a bit...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VS
6
The Cock
The cheeky groove on the right is steep and technical but soon eases. Join and finish up Fox House Flake. The Cock is loose!
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Loose
VS
7
Perched Block Route
Climb the groove past the block to a shelving ledge then step right and climb the bitty groove and arete with care.
2 user comments
 
Rounded
Loose
HVS
8
Stockbroker on the Woodpile
Climb the crack with pegs. Move right then back left to finish.
2 user comments
 
Technical
Loose
E5
9
French Kiss
The blank wall is tricky and bold. Old peg and skyhooks protect.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E8
10
Inspiration Dedication
Bold moves up the wall lead to a hard rockover to gain a slot. Easier and more protectable moves lead to the top.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E8
11
Psychosomatic Pigeon
The vague groove on the right end of the wall.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
E7
12
Shadows on the Wall
The arete and loose flake on the back wall.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
Loose
E7
13
Coldest Crack
In the back wall of the quarry is a thin curving crack, green for 50 weeks of most years. If you find it in condition, tick it...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Crimpy
E2
14
Millwheel Wall
The blunt arete has a slippery start then climb the slab trending rightwards, a good test of footwork, to better holds, the odd...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
E1
15
Dunkley's Eliminate
Mantelshelf onto the ledge from the 'Flintstone's spare-wheel' then climb the well-positioned left arete which has good runners...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS
16
Pretzel Logic
A counter-diagonal to MWW is fingery and unprotected.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
Fluttery
E3
17
Burssola
The thin crack in the shady north-facing wall is more stubborn than it looks. Fortunately the gear is good.
4 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS
  • Latest Comments

    For BURBAGE SOUTH

    Goliath
    "The top crack can be fisted. Tried to climb it as an offwidth for the full exper..." 02/Jun

    Pebble Mill
    "Soft - easier than The Knock or White Wand - Im only 5 10' aswell." 29/Oct

    Movie Star
    "An update - the older BMC guides describes moving in from the R (Surprise)and gi..." 13/Jul

    Zeus
    "Hard work but very worthwhile. Safe as houses - didn't detect any movement in th..." 28/Jun

    Roof Route
    "Looks pretty tame at first sight put its definately harder than it looks, lay aw..." 28/May

    Boggart Left-hand
    "I'm 5'9" and found the reach/dyno quite tricky. The repeated swings to the ..." 03/Dec

    The Knock
    "Did this onsight and thought E4 5c would be fair. pads or no pads, won't make m..." 20/Oct top50

    Life Assurance
    "First E6! so cant really comment on the grade, great line, not the best conditio..." 10/Oct

    Equilibrium
    "I had some spare time after doing the boggart , so I tried the start. Couldnt ge..." 20/Sep

    Nathaniel
    "Nasty. Tape up well!" 13/May

    Byne's Crack
    "Felt pretty tough for VS 4B not sure if that's cause it's a while since I've led..." 09/Dec

    The Boggart
    "easier to solo but still 6b. really interesting tenuous moves." 06/Nov

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