North Quarry

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Early morning sun
8 mins
Level
Seepage
Sheltered

A gloomy quarry with a few decent routes best done on high summer evenings. When the sun is flooding in Fox House Flake or Zeus will be memorable experiences and not greasy battles. The outer slab, including the classic Millwheel Wall, comes into condition more often. The often-wet wall at the back of the quarry is now home to a set of technical wall climbs that are rarely in condition.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Great Flake Route
A mini-expedition starting on up a tough chimney then a ramble along the crest of the flake with an optional belay on the way....
 
Graunchy
VD
2
Zeus
A surprisingly pumpy route up the parallel cracks in the smooth wall. Best laybacked rapidly to jugs and a tricky shelving...
6 user comments
 
3 Stars
E2 5b
3
Fagus Sylvatica
The outrageously bold and technical arete is a "real beech".
 
1 Stars
Technical
E8 7a
4
Hades
The slanting V-shaped groove gives a well-protected battle that is a complete nightmare if at all greasy, and it nearly always...
3 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E1 5c
5
Fox House Flake
A pleasant diagonal crack leads, by a hand-traverse or tiptoeing, to a steeper finale up the ledgy wall. Mild but often a bit...
8 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4b
6
The Cock
The cheeky groove on the right is steep and technical but soon eases. Join and finish up Fox House Flake. The Cock is loose!
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
Loose
VS 5a
7
Perched Block Route
Climb the groove past the block to a shelving ledge then step right and climb the bitty groove and arete with care.
 
Loose
HVS 4c
8
Stockbroker on the Woodpile
Climb the crack with pegs. Move right then back left to finish.
 
Technical
Loose
E5 6b
9
French Kiss
The blank wall is tricky and bold. Old peg and skyhooks protect.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E8 6b
10
Inspiration Dedication
Bold moves up the wall lead to a hard rockover to gain a slot. Easier and more protectable moves lead to the top.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E8 6b
11
Psychosomatic Pigeon
The vague groove on the right end of the wall.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E7 6b
12
Shadows on the Wall
The arete and loose flake on the back wall.
 
1 Stars
Loose
E7 6b
13
Coldest Crack
In the back wall of the quarry is a thin curving crack, green for 50 weeks of most years. If you find it in condition, tick it...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
E2 5c
14
Millwheel Wall
The blunt arete has a slippery start then climb the slab trending rightwards, a good test of footwork, to better holds, the odd...
5 user comments
 
3 Stars
E1 5b
15
Dunkley's Eliminate
Mantelshelf onto the ledge from the 'Flintstone's spare-wheel' then climb the well-positioned left arete which has good runners...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
VS 4c
16
Pretzel Logic
A counter-diagonal to MWW is fingery and unprotected.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
E3 6a
17
Burssola
The thin crack in the shady north-facing wall is more stubborn than it looks. Fortunately the gear is good.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
HVS 5b
  • Latest Comments

    For BURBAGE SOUTH

    Movie Star
    "Changed from HVS 5a * to E1 5b *, 0% of 1 vote for E1, 0% of 1 vote for 5b" 23/Mar

    Goliath
    "The top crack can be fisted. Tried to climb it as an offwidth for the full exper..." 02/Jun

    Pebble Mill
    "Soft - easier than The Knock or White Wand - Im only 5 10' aswell." 29/Oct

    Movie Star
    "An update - the older BMC guides describes moving in from the R (Surprise)and gi..." 13/Jul

    Zeus
    "Hard work but very worthwhile. Safe as houses - didn't detect any movement in th..." 28/Jun

    Roof Route
    "Looks pretty tame at first sight put its definately harder than it looks, lay aw..." 28/May

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