The Crack Area

Adjacent Areas
< The Scoop Area  |  Central Tower >

Trad
Afternoon sun
5 mins
Uphill

The tallest buttress on the cliff and home to some of the very best outings here. Routes such as The Crack and Nozag would be immensely popular were they on one of the Eastern Edges. Here they donít see much traffic at all. Guidebook page 122.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Herford's Girdle Traverse
90m. Seigfried Herford invented the genre here, the route that spawned a thousand imitations from Scafell to El Cap. Left to...
 
2 Stars
VS 4b
2
The Two-step
10m. Follow the short arete on its left edge. It proves to be a bit lichenous and not too well-protected in the lower part.
1 user comment
 VD
3
Fat Man's Chimney
8m. The deep rift is an outing for the gravitationally challenged perhaps? Careful use of outside footholds can ease things a...
2 user comments
 M
4
Plankton
8m. The smooth and serious wall to the right is poorly-protected and technical. Surely it is on the wrong cliff?
1 user comment
 
Technical
Fluttery
E4 6a
5
Deep Crack
8m. Obvious from the name. Pleasant moves lead up the crack, starting from the base of the chimney and keeping left.
 VD
6
Deep Chimney
8m. The dark fissure cuts deep behind the buttress, severing it from the hillside behind. Get stuck into this one for maximum...
2 user comments
 VD
7
Birthday Climb
14m. A crack leads to a recess, trend left from this to reach a hidden flake set in the left arete and follow this strenuously...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Strong
HVS 5b
8
The Crack
14m. Start as for Birthday Climb (a bit of a boulder problem) but follow the excellent steep fissure through the overhang and...
7 user comments
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4b
9
Nozag
14m. Follow the right-hand crack to the arete of the buttress until it starts to slant away right. Pull onto the face and...
13 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
VS 4c
10
Zigzag Crack
12m. Follow the previous route but stay with the diagonal crack all the way to reach the wide fissure and an easy finish.
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
HS 4b
11
Zig-a-Zag-a
12m. Climb the groove to a ledge then the wall immediately right of the chimney. Beware of an unexpected loose block that lurks...
6 user comments
 
1 Stars
VD
12
Long Climb
14m. Climb the blocky groove to a ledge then select a finish. The main angle is the easiest and there are trickier options to...
 VD
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For CASTLE NAZE

    Syringe Benefit
    "Nice climbing, and looked much cleaner than Morocc'n Roll (which had weeds growi..." 20/May

    Scoop Face Direct
    "Prob E1 5C due to polish low down. Crux rockover has good holds - less so for ha..." 16/Sep

    Pod Crack
    "Definitely E2 6a" 03/Jul

    Ledgeway
    "Safe as houses and tough 5b" 09/May

    Morocc'n Roll
    "HVS 5b" 09/May

    Muscle Crack
    "Listed as Severe in the 2009 edition of Western Grit. The top was definately a ..." 04/May

    Nozag
    "Probably the best route at the crag, but would only get one star elsewhere. Low..." 28/Aug

    Combs Climb
    "Avoiding holds in the routes to the left or right is nie-on impossible and would..." 10/Aug

    Slanting Crack
    "Definitely HVD at most." 04/Jun

    Search for comments