Central Tower

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
8 mins
Uphill

The second most impressive part of the cliff has a small selection of worthwhile climbs in a setting that is far from central. Down and right of the Central Tower is a quarry with a trio of unremarkable routes, refugees from the one of the grottier bays at Millstone perhaps?

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Central Tower
12m. A green groove leads to a ledge on the right, step out left to another ledge and finish by the groove on the right. A bit...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
VD
2
Atropine
14m. Excellent and exposed. Climb over a flake to a ledge (awkward) then take the slabby ramp and thin crack (crux) on the left...
4 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
VS 4b
3
The Ugly Bloke
12m. Climb to the top of the flake then step left and power up the wall on tiny holds to a poor pocket. Finish with care. Said...
 
Technical
Fluttery
E3 6a
4
Primadonna
12m. From the top of the ramp climb the arete on its right-hand side throughout. The crux is short but serious and very much...
 
Reachy
Fluttery
E4 6a
5
Belladonna
12m. Devious though with some good moves and a certain logic to the line. Follow Primadonna up the right-hand side of the arete...
5 user comments
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E1 5c
6
Green Crack
14m. From the ledge at the start of the previous three routes follow the groove trending right to a steep final section. It is...
 
1 Stars
S 4a
7
Morocc'n Roll
16m. The thin crack slanting up the steep slab leads to a groove and higher, a ledge (possible stance - an old peg may be in...
1 user comment
 
Technical
Crimpy
E1 5c
8
Syringe Benefit
16m. The right-hand crack is tricky to start, then continue in the same line to a finish as for Morocc'n Roll.
1 user comment
 
Technical
Crimpy
E1 5c
9
Peg Crack
16m. The thin once-pegged crack gives good moves although the tottering grot above rather spoils things.
 
Technical
Crimpy
E1 5c
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  • Latest Comments

    For CASTLE NAZE

    Syringe Benefit
    "Nice climbing, and looked much cleaner than Morocc'n Roll (which had weeds growi..." 20/May

    Scoop Face Direct
    "Prob E1 5C due to polish low down. Crux rockover has good holds - less so for ha..." 16/Sep

    Pod Crack
    "Definitely E2 6a" 03/Jul

    Ledgeway
    "Safe as houses and tough 5b" 09/May

    Morocc'n Roll
    "HVS 5b" 09/May

    Muscle Crack
    "Listed as Severe in the 2009 edition of Western Grit. The top was definately a ..." 04/May

    Nozag
    "Probably the best route at the crag, but would only get one star elsewhere. Low..." 28/Aug

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