Adjacent Areas
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Afternoon sun
Uphill
8 minsWindy
The second most impressive part of the cliff has a small selection of worthwhile climbs in a setting that is far from central. Down and right of the Central Tower is a quarry with a trio of unremarkable routes, refugees from the one of the grottier bays at Millstone perhaps? Guidebook page 123.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Central Tower 12m. A green groove leads to a ledge on the right, step out left to another ledge and finish by the groove on the right. A bit... 1 user comment | 1 Stars | VD |
2 |
Atropine 14m. Excellent and exposed. Climb over a flake to a ledge (awkward) then take the slabby ramp and thin crack (crux) on the left... 4 user comments | 2 Stars Pumpy | VS 4b |
3 |
The Ugly Bloke 12m. Climb to the top of the flake then step left and power up the wall on tiny holds to a poor pocket. Finish with care. Said... | Technical Fluttery | E3 6a |
4 |
Primadonna 12m. From the top of the ramp climb the arete on its right-hand side throughout. The crux is short but serious and very much... | Reachy Fluttery | E4 6a |
5 |
Belladonna 12m. Devious though with some good moves and a certain logic to the line. Follow Primadonna up the right-hand side of the arete... 5 user comments | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | E1 5c |
6 |
Green Crack 14m. From the ledge at the start of the previous three routes follow the groove trending right to a steep final section. It is... | 1 Stars | S 4a |
7 |
Morocc'n Roll 16m. The thin crack slanting up the steep slab leads to a groove and higher, a ledge (possible stance - an old peg may be in... 1 user comment | Technical Crimpy | E1 5c |
8 |
Syringe Benefit 16m. The right-hand crack is tricky to start, then continue in the same line to a finish as for Morocc'n Roll. 1 user comment | Technical Crimpy | E1 5c |
9 |
Peg Crack 16m. The thin once-pegged crack gives good moves although the tottering grot above rather spoils things. | Technical Crimpy | E1 5c |