Far Right

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill
8 mins

The final section of castle Naze is a series of small buttresses perched above a steep rocky slope. The routes here are not as good as on the main section but there are one or two things of interest.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Hodgkinson's Chimney
6m. The short rift high on the left.
1 user comment
 M
2
South Buttress
14m. The crest of the buttress on good holds leads to ledge and to a finish through a notch.
2 user comments
 D
3
V-Chimney
8m. The long greenish groove gives pleasant climbing. A couple of jammed flakes help.
 
1 Stars
D
4
Southern Arete
8m. The well-positioned ridge that bounds the groove on its right-hand side.
 HS 4b
5
Bubbly Wall
6m. The short crinkled wall has little in the way of gear and an unpleasant landing.
 HVS 5a
6
Vanishing Crack
8m. Start in a groove and climb the crack that springs leftwards from its apex. The jamming crack through the bulge has...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
HS 4b
7
The Vice
8m. Unlike its Stanage namesake, the crack and groove are pleasant enough.
 VD
8
Struggle
5m. The restricted cleft and parallel cracks in the right-hand side of the buttress are more vice-like than The Vice.
 HS 4b
9
Boomerang
4m. The wide block-filled fissure on the left.
 M
10
Boomerang Buttress
6m. The arete, starting from blocks and finishing over a perched boulder.
 VS 4b
11
Overhanging Chimney
6m. The awkward leaning crack just right.
 HVD
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For CASTLE NAZE

    Syringe Benefit
    "Nice climbing, and looked much cleaner than Morocc'n Roll (which had weeds growi..." 20/May

    Scoop Face Direct
    "Prob E1 5C due to polish low down. Crux rockover has good holds - less so for ha..." 16/Sep

    Pod Crack
    "Definitely E2 6a" 03/Jul

    Ledgeway
    "Safe as houses and tough 5b" 09/May

    Morocc'n Roll
    "HVS 5b" 09/May

    Muscle Crack
    "Listed as Severe in the 2009 edition of Western Grit. The top was definately a ..." 04/May

    Nozag
    "Probably the best route at the crag, but would only get one star elsewhere. Low..." 28/Aug

    Combs Climb
    "Avoiding holds in the routes to the left or right is nie-on impossible and would..." 10/Aug

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