Ravens Tor

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Morning sun
Uphill
20 mins
Sheltered

A fine steep cliff, northeast-facing and seamed by a selection of cracks and grooves, giving some of the best climbing in the dale. As with some other crags, the ivy is encroaching. Guidebook page 301.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Tennessee Waltz
1) 5a, 18m. The thin crack leads to a dubious flake that is climbed to a small stance, where the angle falls back.2) 5b,...
 
1 Stars
Loose
HVS 5b
2
Southern Rib
Popular and excellent, though inevitably a little polished.1) 5b, 18m. Bold moves reach the crack, then power up it until...
10 user comments
 
2 Stars
E1 5b
3
The Temptress
The bold, bulging rib between the crack systems is a stern test. The grade assumes that several pegs are in place. Climb the...
 
2 Stars
Fluttery
E5 6a
4
Left-hand Route
The steep and pumpy groove gives a fine sustained pitch. Climb the groove until it is possible to pull over to less awkward...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
E1 5b
5
Deltoid Shuffle
A taxing wall with some absorbing climbing which is not as bold as grit routes of the same grade.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Fluttery
E4 5c
6
Raven
Two worthwhile pitches spilt by a ramble up Brown's Blunder.1) 5c, 24m. Climb the right-hand crack in the lower wall to its...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Strong
E2 5c
7
Brown's Blunder
The easiest route up the cliff, which follows a good line although it is a touch vegetated and there is some loose rock.1)...
 
1 Stars
VS 4c
8
Aquarius
A steep start leads to some fine crack climbing. Climb the ramp of Brown's Blunder for 8m (thread - possible stance) then pull...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Strong
Crimpy
E2 5c
9
Central Wall
Fine climbing up thin cracks splitting the central white wall.1) 5c, 20m. Climb to the thin crack and follow it with...
3 user comments
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
E3 5c
10
Central Wall Direct
The thin right-trending crack directly above the stance.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
E4 6b
11
Judas
Follow Central Wall to the stance, but tackle the fierce crack in the headwall to the right of the Direct Finish.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5 6b
12
The Doldrums
The right-hand crack in the headwall is rarely visited.
 
Crimpy
E3 5c
13
Venery
The left-hand parallel crack in the right side of the face is a popular outing and follows a strong natural line. The 1st pitch...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 4c
14
Parrot Face
1) 4b, 15m. Take the first pitch of Venery to the stance.2) 5a, 15m. The right-hand crack is also sustained and has a...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
HVS 5a
15
Skewball
Climb a crack then step right into its continuation. Head up the grassy ramp right again to finish.
1 user comment
 VS 4c
16
Jugbit
Climb the smooth wall to the roof then move left to enter the groove of Skewball. Up this and the grassy ramp above.
 E2 5c
17
Tendonitis Sucks
From the first peg on Jugbit, step right onto the wall and climb it with difficulty.
 E5 6b
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  • Latest Comments

    For DOVEDALE

    Claw Left-hand
    "Had been saving this route for years as it always seems to be wet. Oh my word wh..." 29/May

    Venery
    "Good crack climbing HVS 5a**" 17/Nov

    Simeon
    "Don't know about "low in the grade", I'd put it high in the grade." 03/Oct

    Aquarius
    "Really good route but wish I had read the comments about the vertical choss fini..." 19/Aug

    Southern Rib
    "Classic Peak Limestone HVS 5b (both pitches)" 05/Jul

    The Gladiator
    "The route is correct in the Rockfax guide with Adrian's slight re-wording probab..." 10/Jun

    Thunderball
    "Getting to the route is a definite pain (just getting up to the Watchblock is ba..." 06/Jun

    The Claw
    ""Battle" seems an appropriate verb. Unusual climbing - felt like gris..." 10/Oct

    The Claw
    "Led it in one. A good honest tussle up to the optional stance but I didn't enjoy..." 02/Aug

    Nancy Whisky
    "Worth 2 stars? I think so. E2? Probably not, but it's high in the grade. Certain..." 25/Jul

    Nancy Whisky
    "Good route but hard for the grade: I've certainly done easier E2s" 05/Jul

    Adjudicator Wall
    "the best route in the dale and to date one of the most enjoyable climbs i've lea..." 19/May

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