Dove Holes

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
No sun
20 mins
Level
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

The twinned sockets provide one of the Peak's more unusual climbing venues - a pair of water-worn caves where the dark art of aid climbing can still be practised. For those after the free routes, Police and Thieves and The Umpire are well worth seeking out. Guidebook page 304.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Archers
The pillar to the left of the smaller cave leads to an overhang. Move right under this and sprint for the trees.
1 user comment
 
Technical
E5 6b
2
The Ball
An interesting aid route exiting the smaller left-hand cave, including a bit of downhill climbing to pass the lip. The gear is...
 
1 Stars
Technical
A2
3
Pumping Iron
The right-slanting overlap between the caves is as strenuous as the name suggests. From the ledge, undercut and layaway along...
 
1 Stars
Strong
Pumpy
E5 6b
4
Restricted Practices
The right-hand side of the wall between the caves is technical to start. Trend left through the overhangs, and pull through to...
 
Technical
E5 6b
5
The Wicked
Start inside the left-hand edge of the arch, and climb the pillar and thin crack in the roof out to join The Bat.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
A2
6
The Bat
A classic aid route which is pretty straightforward with solid bolts. Climb the central pillar, then cross the roof bat-style,...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
A2
7
Middle Stump
Back breaking work up the right-hand leaning wall, following a vague line of weakness and joining The Bat just short of the...
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Pumpy
A2
8
Follow the Bear
From the base of the pillar on the right, trend left, hugging the lip of the cave following the line of fixed gear. Don't fall.
 
Technical
E5 6b
9
Police and Thieves
A fine, devious pitch, with plenty of good climbing. Climb the awkward wall for 5m, then head left past a crumbly flake. Climb...
 
2 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
E4 6a
10
The Umpire
Start as for Police and Thieves, but continue up an awkward little groove until a ledge on the right can be gained. Climb the...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3 5c
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  • Latest Comments

    For DOVEDALE

    Claw Left-hand
    "Had been saving this route for years as it always seems to be wet. Oh my word wh..." 29/May

    Venery
    "Good crack climbing HVS 5a**" 17/Nov

    Simeon
    "Don't know about "low in the grade", I'd put it high in the grade." 03/Oct

    Aquarius
    "Really good route but wish I had read the comments about the vertical choss fini..." 19/Aug

    Southern Rib
    "Classic Peak Limestone HVS 5b (both pitches)" 05/Jul

    The Gladiator
    "The route is correct in the Rockfax guide with Adrian's slight re-wording probab..." 10/Jun

    Thunderball
    "Getting to the route is a definite pain (just getting up to the Watchblock is ba..." 06/Jun

    The Claw
    ""Battle" seems an appropriate verb. Unusual climbing - felt like gris..." 10/Oct

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