Dove Holes

Adjacent Areas
< Ravens Tor  |  Ilam Rock >

Trad
Sun and Shade
20 mins
Level
Seepage
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

The twinned sockets provide one of the Peak's more unusual climbing venues - a pair of water-worn caves where the dark art of aid climbing can still be practised. For those after the free routes, Police and Thieves and The Umpire are well worth seeking out.
On busy weekends you will be the centre of attention. Although there isn't much loose rock to dislodge, take care, especially with ropes and gear, since people will wander about beneath you.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Archers
The pillar to the left of the smaller cave leads to an overhang. Move right under this and sprint for the trees.
1 user comment
 
Technical
E5
2
The Ball
An interesting aid route exiting the smaller left-hand cave, including a bit of downhill climbing to pass the lip. The gear is...
 
1 Stars
Technical
A2
3
Pumping Iron
The right-slanting overlap between the caves is as strenuous as the name suggests. From the ledge, undercut and layaway along...
 
1 Stars
Strong
E5
4
Restricted Practices
The right-hand side of the wall between the caves is technical to start. Trend left through the overhangs, and pull through to...
 
Technical
E5
5
The Wicked
Start inside the left-hand edge of the arch, and climb the pillar and thin crack in the roof out to join The Bat.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
A2
6
The Bat
A classic aid route which is pretty straightforward with solid bolts. Climb the central pillar, then cross the roof bat-style,...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
A2
7
Middle Stump
Back breaking work up the right-hand leaning wall, following a vague line of weakness and joining The Bat just short of the...
 
3 Stars
A2
8
Follow the Bear
From the base of the pillar on the right, trend left, hugging the lip of the cave following the line of fixed gear. Don't fall.
 
Technical
E5
9
Police and Thieves
A fine pitch, with plenty of good climbing. Climb the awkward wall for 5m, then head left past a crumbly flake. Climb direct to...
 
2 Stars
Technical
E4
10
The Umpire
Start as for Police and Thieves, but continue up an awkward little groove until a ledge on the right can be gained. Climb the...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E3