Ilam Rock

Adjacent Areas
< Dove Holes  |  Pickering Pinnacle >

Trad
Sun and Shade
25 mins
Level
Dry in the Rain
Sheltered

The finest pinnacle in the valley is in a dramatic setting, leaning out over the river and the ogling walkers. The routes are perhaps not as good as you might expect, and Easter Island itself has been over-sold in the past, however, there are still some great ticks, all of which finish with that rare summit feeling.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Original Route
Poor, but the easiest way up the tower, and one of the earliest limestone routes in the Peak. From the col at the back of the...
1 user comment
 
Fluttery
Loose
HS 4a
2
The Wong Edge
The once-pegged cracks in the uphill face of the tower give a strenuous tussle. From the resting ledge on the right, step back...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E3 6a
3
The Groove
Bridge and battle into, then up, the leaning corner to reach relief on a shelf. Finish up the more amenable groove behind.
 
1 Stars
Technical
E2 5c
4
The Gladiator
An unequal battle for many. Climb the rib, then the sustained pocketed crack with difficulty (old peg) to an eventual breather...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
Pumpy
Crimpy
E4 6a
5
Steve's Route
Start up Eye of the Tiger but break left and climb the wall via some desperate fingery climbing to the lower-off.
 
2 Stars
Technical
E6 6c
6
Eye of the Tiger
Cue the Rocky music. A big bruising pitch up the finest bit of rock in the valley. Mega-classic and about sport 7c. From the...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
Fluttery
E7 6c
7
The White Edge
Once a spectacular aid route and now a worthwhile free outing. Climb the crack just left of the arete, with a breather around...
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E3 6a
8
Easter Island
Almost a great classic, though the grassy grot just to the right of the lower section is a bit of a spoiler - you will either...
6 user comments
 
2 Stars
E1 5b
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  • Latest Comments

    For DOVEDALE

    Black Flip
    "FFA Correction: John Fleming and Jim Shackleton made the first free ascent ca 19..." 05/Aug

    Claw Left-hand
    "Had been saving this route for years as it always seems to be wet. Oh my word wh..." 29/May

    Venery
    "Good crack climbing HVS 5a**" 17/Nov

    Simeon
    "Don't know about "low in the grade", I'd put it high in the grade." 03/Oct

    Aquarius
    "Really good route but wish I had read the comments about the vertical choss fini..." 19/Aug

    Southern Rib
    "Classic Peak Limestone HVS 5b (both pitches)" 05/Jul

    The Gladiator
    "The route is correct in the Rockfax guide with Adrian's slight re-wording probab..." 10/Jun

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