Adjacent Areas
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The Southern Burbage Quarry is as grim as its neighbour but it is worth a visit to view the amazing Cioch Block with its dotted line of drill holes; it looks like they were preparing to blow the whole thing up! There is a small collection of hard routes and a few lesser offerings. Most of the routes are only climbable after a dry spell. Guidebook page 233.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
The Verdict 10m. A deep V-shaped groove is a brutal but safe struggle. | E2 6a | |
2 |
The Old Bailey 14m. The deep blocky groove leads to a large threadable chockstone and tough exit. Ferns can be a nuisance! | 1 Stars Technical | HVS 5b |
3 |
The Simpering Savage 20m. The diagonal crack is finger traversed with great difficulty to The Old Bailey and a possible stance. Continue across the... 2 user comments | 1 Stars Pumpy | E5 6b |
4 |
Poisoned Dwarf Thin cracks which used to give good pegging practice, now they have to be finger jammed instead. HVS to lead. | 1 Stars Crimpy | V1 5c |
5 |
Trellis A hard and high problem up the wall round the corner. | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | V6 6b |
6 |
The Dover and Ellis Chimney 16m. The highly historical cleft in the back corner of the quarry. Passing the wide upper section is the crux. Often sandy. | 1 Stars | E1 5b |
7 |
Silent Spring An exposed girdle of the Cioch (Gaelic for tit) Block.1) 5c, 12m. Start in the dirty gully on the left and cross a thin... | 3 Stars Technical Fluttery | E4 5c |
8 |
Off Spring 10m. Exciting climbing in a dramatic position, much easier for the tall. From a position on the arete (abseil in) traverse the... | 2 Stars Reachy Technical | E5 6b |
9 |
Captain Invincible 16m. Free climbs the old aid route up the awesome north-west face of the Cioch. Climb the technical arete then follow the thin... | 3 Stars Technical Crimpy | E8 6c |
