South Quarry

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Evening sun
Uphill
10 mins

The Southern Burbage Quarry is as grim as its neighbour but it is worth a visit to view the amazing Cioch Block with its dotted line of drill holes; it looks like they were preparing to blow the whole thing up! There is a small collection of hard routes and a few lesser offerings. Most of the routes are only climbable after a dry spell. Guidebook page 233.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Verdict
10m. A deep V-shaped groove is a brutal but safe struggle.
 E2 6a
2
The Old Bailey
14m. The deep blocky groove leads to a large threadable chockstone and tough exit. Ferns can be a nuisance!
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS 5b
3
The Simpering Savage
20m. The diagonal crack is finger traversed with great difficulty to The Old Bailey and a possible stance. Continue across the...
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6b
4
Poisoned Dwarf
Thin cracks which used to give good pegging practice, now they have to be finger jammed instead. HVS to lead.
 
1 Stars
Crimpy
V1 5c
5
Trellis
A hard and high problem up the wall round the corner.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
V6 6b
6
The Dover and Ellis Chimney
16m. The highly historical cleft in the back corner of the quarry. Passing the wide upper section is the crux. Often sandy.
 
1 Stars
E1 5b
7
Silent Spring
An exposed girdle of the Cioch (Gaelic for tit) Block.1) 5c, 12m. Start in the dirty gully on the left and cross a thin...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Fluttery
E4 5c
8
Off Spring
10m. Exciting climbing in a dramatic position, much easier for the tall. From a position on the arete (abseil in) traverse the...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
E5 6b
9
Captain Invincible
16m. Free climbs the old aid route up the awesome north-west face of the Cioch. Climb the technical arete then follow the thin...
 
3 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E8 6c
  • Latest Comments

    For BURBAGE SOUTH

    Goliath
    "The top crack can be fisted. Tried to climb it as an offwidth for the full exper..." 02/Jun

    Pebble Mill
    "Soft - easier than The Knock or White Wand - Im only 5 10' aswell." 29/Oct

    Movie Star
    "An update - the older BMC guides describes moving in from the R (Surprise)and gi..." 13/Jul

    Zeus
    "Hard work but very worthwhile. Safe as houses - didn't detect any movement in th..." 28/Jun

    Roof Route
    "Looks pretty tame at first sight put its definately harder than it looks, lay aw..." 28/May

    Boggart Left-hand
    "I'm 5'9" and found the reach/dyno quite tricky. The repeated swings to the ..." 03/Dec

    The Knock
    "Did this onsight and thought E4 5c would be fair. pads or no pads, won't make m..." 20/Oct top50

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