South Quarry

Adjacent Areas
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Sheltered

The Southern Quarry is as grim as its neighbour; it has a small collection of hard routes and a few lesser offerings. Most of the routes are only climbable after a dry spell.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
The Verdict
The neglected V-shaped groove is a brutal but safe struggle.
 
Technical
Graunchy
E2 6a
2
The Old Bailey
The deep chockstoned and ferny groove has a tough exit. A good line that sees virtually no attention.
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS 5b
3
Wizard Ridge
The fantastic arete remains a dream at present.
 
3 Stars
??
4
The Simpering Savage
A diagonal finger traversed to The Old Bailey and a possible stance. Continue across the wall (5b ) to the top of The Verdict.
2 user comments
 
1 Stars
E5 6b
5
Poisoned Dwarf
Thin cracks used to give good pegging practice, now they have to be finger-jammed instead. More like E1 5c as a lead.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
f5
6
Trellis
A hard and high problem up the wall round the corner.
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
f7A 6b
7
The Dover and Ellis Chimney
The highly historical cleft in the back corner of the quarry. Passing the wide section is the crux. Sandy and rarely done.
 
1 Stars
E1 5b
8
Silent Spring
An exposed girdle of the Cioch (Gaelic for tit) Block.1) 5c, 12m. Start in the dirty gully on the left and cross a thin...
 
3 Stars
Technical
E4 5c
9
Silent Scream
A lower version is technical and well named. Stay just above the lip of the roof until the right arete can be reached for a...
 
3 Stars
Technical
E7 6c
10
Off Spring
Exciting climbing in a dramatic position and much easier for the tall. From the arete (abseil in) traverse the parallel cracks...
2 user comments
 
3 Stars
Technical
E5 6b
11
Captain Invincible
A free version of an old aid route up the awesome northwest face of the Cioch. Climb the technical arete then follow the thin...
 
3 Stars
Technical
E8 6c
12
Captain Unclimbable
The amazing steep groove is the third of Burbage South's impossible projects.
 
3 Stars
??
  • Latest Comments

    For BURBAGE SOUTH

    Goliath
    "The top crack can be fisted. Tried to climb it as an offwidth for the full exper..." 02/Jun

    Pebble Mill
    "Soft - easier than The Knock or White Wand - Im only 5 10' aswell." 29/Oct

    Movie Star
    "An update - the older BMC guides describes moving in from the R (Surprise)and gi..." 13/Jul

    Zeus
    "Hard work but very worthwhile. Safe as houses - didn't detect any movement in th..." 28/Jun

    Roof Route
    "Looks pretty tame at first sight put its definately harder than it looks, lay aw..." 28/May

    Boggart Left-hand
    "I'm 5'9" and found the reach/dyno quite tricky. The repeated swings to the ..." 03/Dec

    The Knock
    "Did this onsight and thought E4 5c would be fair. pads or no pads, won't make m..." 20/Oct top50

    Life Assurance
    "First E6! so cant really comment on the grade, great line, not the best conditio..." 10/Oct

    Samson
    "it looks so much easier on hard grit..." 20/Sep

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