Adjacent Areas
< South Gully Buttress | None >
Trad
Sun and Shade
Level
35 minsSeepage
Dovedale Church East Face has a great selection of routes ranging from the amiable VS 4c of Snakes Alive, through to the fierce E6 6b of Amazona and with a fair bit in between. Once you start exploring the labyrinthine delights of the inner sections, there are plenty more routes to be found although none are of the quality of the routes on the main face. In recent years the place has seen little traffic and some of the routes have become overgrown. Guidebook page 320.
| Route (click for voting and user comments) | Symbols | Grade | |
1 |
Bob Can't Cope The centre of the face on the left and the grotty arete left are not especially edifying. | E3 5b | |
2 |
Bob Hope Climb the wall trending right to the arete then step back left and finish direct. | E2 5b | |
3 |
Crypt Route Creep up the rib left of the arch until it is possible to step into the chimney. Bridge up this and through the eye-hole to... | 1 Stars | S 4a |
4 |
No Turning Back The crack in the wall right of the arch of Crypt Route is gained by a steep bulging wall (three bolts). Climb the crack on... | 1 Stars Technical Crimpy | E5 6b |
5 |
Sold Down the River Connect two flakes in the rear pillar of the back pinnacle, to the left of the arch. An ancient thread marks the line and this... | Technical | E5 6b |
6 |
Unknown A bolted line for which no further details are known. | ?? | |
7 |
French Technique A very short route up the red wall opposite the window in the back pinnacle. Two bolts lead to an old lower-off. | 1 Stars Technical | 7a |
8 |
American Style The once-pegged crack is short but action packed. It gives well-protected but arduous finger-jamming and laybacking and is... | 1 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | E4 6b |
9 |
Bolt it and Believe it Short and sharp climbing up the wall left of Tales of the Riverbank. Two bolts and a peg to a lower-off. | 1 Stars Technical | 7c |
10 |
Tales of the Riverbank A superb sustained pitch, on which the gear is perfect, but hard work to place. A loose wall (old peg and good small wires)... 1 user comment | 3 Stars Pumpy | E5 6a |
11 |
Pogles' Wood Climb direct up some flakes from Tales to join The Rattler. | Technical | E4 6a |
12 |
The Rattler Start up Anaconda but move out left to a good crack and follow this to the ledges above. | 1 Stars Pumpy Loose | HVS 5b |
13 |
Horner 30m. Use the tree to access the groove and continue to a stance. The chimney above is easier but no pleasanter! | HS 4c | |
14 |
Anaconda A good climbs that snakes about less than you might be expecting. Bridge and jam the long groove up to the overhang then pass... 1 user comment | 2 Stars Strong | E1 5b |
15 |
Phil's Route A magnificent line, great for aficionados of slippery limestone fist-jamming. Follow the crack-line throughout. The main... | 3 Stars Strong | E2 5c |
16 |
Jungle Land A big butch pitch through the right-hand side of the roof and with plenty of relics from the iron age. Climb the wall to the... | 3 Stars Pumpy Crimpy | E5 6b |
17 |
Amazona Start up Snakes Alive then make a desperate traverse left into a thin crack. Climb the crack and continue up the smooth wall... | 3 Stars Reachy Technical Crimpy | E6 6c |
18 |
Snakes Alive The soaring groove is the main feature of this side of The Church. Bridge up it, passing the bulge on the left, to reach ledges... 3 user comments | 3 Stars | VS 4c |
19 |
Wild Country 30m. Start up Snakes Alive but break across the left wall to reach the beckoning crack with great difficulty. Layback up this... | 2 Stars Reachy Technical Crimpy | E4 6c |
20 |
Judge Jeffries Links the groove of Snakes Alive with the right-hand arete by an interesting traverse. From 3m up the groove, head right until... | 1 Stars Technical | HVS 5c |
21 |
Quiet Life The elegant scoops in the right-hand side of the wall succumb to technical bridging. Descent is awkward - best continue upwards... 2 user comments | 2 Stars Technical | E3 6a |
22 |
Blue Sister An eliminate though with some good climbing. Start up Quiet Life but gain the face on the left at the earliest opportunity.... | 1 Stars Technical | E4 6a |
23 |
Cryptic Crack 14m. Climb the left arete of the arch then traverse right under it to a finish up a wide crack. | VD | |