Dovedale Church

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun and Shade
35 mins
Level
Seepage
Sheltered

Dovedale Church East Face has a great selection of routes ranging from the amiable VS 4c of Snakes Alive, through to the fierce E6 6b of Amazona and with a fair bit in between. Once you start exploring the labyrinthine delights of the inner sections, there are plenty more routes to be found although none are of the quality of the routes on the main face. In recent years the place has seen little traffic and some of the routes have become overgrown. Guidebook page 320.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Bob Can't Cope
The centre of the face on the left and the grotty arete left are not especially edifying.
 E3 5b
2
Bob Hope
Climb the wall trending right to the arete then step back left and finish direct.
 E2 5b
3
Crypt Route
Creep up the rib left of the arch until it is possible to step into the chimney. Bridge up this and through the eye-hole to...
 
1 Stars
S 4a
4
No Turning Back
The crack in the wall right of the arch of Crypt Route is gained by a steep bulging wall (three bolts). Climb the crack on...
 
1 Stars
Technical
Crimpy
E5 6b
5
Sold Down the River
Connect two flakes in the rear pillar of the back pinnacle, to the left of the arch. An ancient thread marks the line and this...
 
Technical
E5 6b
6
Unknown
A bolted line for which no further details are known.
 ??
7
French Technique
A very short route up the red wall opposite the window in the back pinnacle. Two bolts lead to an old lower-off.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
8
American Style
The once-pegged crack is short but action packed. It gives well-protected but arduous finger-jamming and laybacking and is...
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
E4 6b
9
Bolt it and Believe it
Short and sharp climbing up the wall left of Tales of the Riverbank. Two bolts and a peg to a lower-off.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c
10
Tales of the Riverbank
A superb sustained pitch, on which the gear is perfect, but hard work to place. A loose wall (old peg and good small wires)...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
E5 6a
11
Pogles' Wood
Climb direct up some flakes from Tales to join The Rattler.
 
Technical
E4 6a
12
The Rattler
Start up Anaconda but move out left to a good crack and follow this to the ledges above.
 
1 Stars
Pumpy
Loose
HVS 5b
13
Horner
30m. Use the tree to access the groove and continue to a stance. The chimney above is easier but no pleasanter!
 HS 4c
14
Anaconda
A good climbs that snakes about less than you might be expecting. Bridge and jam the long groove up to the overhang then pass...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
E1 5b
15
Phil's Route
A magnificent line, great for aficionados of slippery limestone fist-jamming. Follow the crack-line throughout. The main...
 
3 Stars
Strong
E2 5c
16
Jungle Land
A big butch pitch through the right-hand side of the roof and with plenty of relics from the iron age. Climb the wall to the...
 
3 Stars
Pumpy
Crimpy
E5 6b
17
Amazona
Start up Snakes Alive then make a desperate traverse left into a thin crack. Climb the crack and continue up the smooth wall...
 
3 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Crimpy
E6 6c
18
Snakes Alive
The soaring groove is the main feature of this side of The Church. Bridge up it, passing the bulge on the left, to reach ledges...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
VS 4c
19
Wild Country
30m. Start up Snakes Alive but break across the left wall to reach the beckoning crack with great difficulty. Layback up this...
 
2 Stars
Reachy
Technical
Crimpy
E4 6c
20
Judge Jeffries
Links the groove of Snakes Alive with the right-hand arete by an interesting traverse. From 3m up the groove, head right until...
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS 5c
21
Quiet Life
The elegant scoops in the right-hand side of the wall succumb to technical bridging. Descent is awkward - best continue upwards...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E3 6a
22
Blue Sister
An eliminate though with some good climbing. Start up Quiet Life but gain the face on the left at the earliest opportunity....
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4 6a
23
Cryptic Crack
14m. Climb the left arete of the arch then traverse right under it to a finish up a wide crack.
 VD
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  • Latest Comments

    For DOVEDALE

    Claw Left-hand
    "Had been saving this route for years as it always seems to be wet. Oh my word wh..." 29/May

    Venery
    "Good crack climbing HVS 5a**" 17/Nov

    Simeon
    "Don't know about "low in the grade", I'd put it high in the grade." 03/Oct

    Aquarius
    "Really good route but wish I had read the comments about the vertical choss fini..." 19/Aug

    Southern Rib
    "Classic Peak Limestone HVS 5b (both pitches)" 05/Jul

    The Gladiator
    "The route is correct in the Rockfax guide with Adrian's slight re-wording probab..." 10/Jun

    Thunderball
    "Getting to the route is a definite pain (just getting up to the Watchblock is ba..." 06/Jun

    The Claw
    ""Battle" seems an appropriate verb. Unusual climbing - felt like gris..." 10/Oct

    The Claw
    "Led it in one. A good honest tussle up to the optional stance but I didn't enjoy..." 02/Aug

    Nancy Whisky
    "Worth 2 stars? I think so. E2? Probably not, but it's high in the grade. Certain..." 25/Jul

    Nancy Whisky
    "Good route but hard for the grade: I've certainly done easier E2s" 05/Jul

    Adjudicator Wall
    "the best route in the dale and to date one of the most enjoyable climbs i've lea..." 19/May

    Ten Craters of Wisdom
    "Agree with the last comment, 5a for 1 move but 4a/b for the rest. I'd still give..." 27/Mar

    Southern Rib
    "Hardest HVS I've done in yonks, wasn't quite prepared for what to expect. Both p..." 29/Sep

    Simeon Direct
    "Slightly spoilt by the undignified grovel to reach the base of the route (typica..." 16/Aug

    Ten Craters of Wisdom
    "A good route, though most of the craters have flowers growing in them. Mostly 4a..." 10/Aug

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