Dovedale Church

Adjacent Areas
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Trad
Sun and Shade
35 mins
Level
Seepage
Sheltered

Dovedale Church East Face has a great selection of routes ranging from the amiable VS 4c of Snakes Alive, through to the fierce E6 6b of Amazona and with a fair bit in between. Once you start exploring the labyrinthine delights of the inner sections, there are plenty more routes to be found although none are of the quality of the routes on the main face. In recent years the place has seen little traffic and some of the routes have become overgrown.

Route (click for voting and user comments) Symbols Grade
1
Bob Can't Cope
The centre of the face on the left and the grotty arete left are not especially edifying.
 E3
2
Bob Hope
Climb the wall trending right to the arete then step back left and finish direct.
 E2
3
Crypt Route
Creep up the rib left of the arch until it is possible to step into the chimney. Bridge up this and through the eye-hole to...
 
1 Stars
S
4
No Turning Back
The crack in the wall right of the arch of Crypt Route is gained by a steep bulging wall (three bolts). Climb the crack on...
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5
5
Sold Down the River
Connect two flakes in the rear pillar of the back pinnacle, to the left of the arch. An ancient thread marks the line and this...
 
Technical
E5
6
Unknown
A bolted line for which no further details are known.
1 user comment
 ?
7
French Technique
A very short route up the red wall opposite the window in the back pinnacle. Two bolts lead to an old lower-off.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7a
8
American Style
The once-pegged crack is short but action packed. It gives well-protected but arduous finger-jamming and laybacking and is...
 
1 Stars
E4
9
Bolt it and Believe it
Short and sharp climbing up the wall left of Tales of the Riverbank. Two bolts and a peg to a lower-off.
 
1 Stars
Technical
7c
10
Tales of the Riverbank
A superb sustained pitch, on which the gear is perfect, but hard work to place. A loose wall (old peg and good small wires)...
1 user comment
 
3 Stars
E5
11
Pogles' Wood
Climb direct up some flakes from Tales to join The Rattler.
 
Technical
E4
12
The Rattler
Start up Anaconda but move out left to a good crack and follow this to the ledges above.
 
1 Stars
Loose
HVS
13
Horner
30m. Use the tree to access the groove and continue to a stance. The chimney above is easier but no pleasanter!
 HS 4c
14
Anaconda
A good climbs that snakes about less than you might be expecting. Bridge and jam the long groove up to the overhang then pass...
1 user comment
 
2 Stars
Strong
E1
15
Phil's Route
A magnificent line, great for aficionados of slippery limestone fist-jamming. Follow the crack-line throughout. The main...
 
3 Stars
Strong
E2
16
Jungle Land
A big butch pitch through the right-hand side of the roof and with plenty of relics from the iron age. Climb the wall to the...
 
3 Stars
E5
17
Amazona
Start up Snakes Alive then make a desperate traverse left into a thin crack. Climb the crack and continue up the smooth wall...
 
3 Stars
Technical
E6
18
Wild Country
Join the start of Amazona with the finish of Jungle Land.
1 user comment
 
1 Stars
Technical
E5
19
Snakes Alive
The soaring groove is the main feature of this side of The Church. Bridge up it, passing the bulge on the left, to reach ledges...
3 user comments
 
3 Stars
VS
20
Judge Jeffries
Links the groove of Snakes Alive with the right-hand arete by an interesting traverse. From 3m up the groove, head right until...
 
1 Stars
Technical
HVS
21
Quiet Life
The elegant scoops in the right-hand side of the wall succumb to technical bridging. Descent is awkward - best continue upwards...
2 user comments
 
2 Stars
Technical
E3
22
Blue Sister
An eliminate though with some good climbing. Start up Quiet Life but gain the face on the left at the earliest opportunity....
 
1 Stars
Technical
E4
23
Cryptic Crack
14m. Climb the left arete of the arch then traverse right under it to a finish up a wide crack.
 VD